Kit Includes: (2) Rear Sway Bar Links (2) Rear Coil Springs (2) Rear Shock Absorbers (2) Rear Upper Control Arm Links (2) Rear Upper Rearward Control Arms (2) Rear Upper Forward Control Arms
Specification
Location
Rear
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Anti-Corrosion Coated: Enhanced surface life
Pre-greased: No additional maintenance required
Kitted for Restored Performance: Improved road-feel and handling
Our direct fit gas-charged shock absorbers help restore your vehicle's handling and ride quality to just like new.
Our steering and suspension kits are offered in a variety of options to best fit your repair needs and your budget.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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How to Replace Rear Shocks 2009-17 Chevy Traverse
How to Replace Rear Shocks 2009-17 Chevy Traverse
Created on:
Tools used
15mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
15mm Socket
Rust Penetrant
17mm Socket
Jack Stands
21mm wrench
Side Cutters
Rubber Mallet
Dead Blow Hammer
Ratchet
Wire Brush
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
1. Removing the Wheel
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise and support the vehicle
Remove the lug nuts
Slide the wheel off the hub
If the wheel is stuck, thread on two lug nuts by hand
Strike the wheel with a dead blow hammer
Remove the lug nuts
Slide the wheel off the hub
2. Removing the Rear Shock
Apply rust penetrant to the shock bolts
Clean the shock bolts with a wire brush
Hold the upper shock bolt with a 15mm wrench
Loosen the upper shock nut with an 18mm wrench
Hold the lower shock bolt with a 21mm socket and a breaker bar
Loosen the lower shock nut with a 21mm wrench
Support the control arm with a floor jack
Remove the lower shock nut and bolt
Remove the upper shock nut and bolt
Pull the shock off its mount
3. Installing the Rear Shock
Loosen the two 15mm bolts in the shock mount bracket
Place the shock into the mount
Slide the upper shock bolt into the top of the shock and the mount
Thread the nut onto the upper shock bolt
Tighten the two 15mm bolts in the shock mount bracket
Cut the shipping strap off the shock with side cutters
Allow the shock to expand
Place the washer between the control arm and the shock
Line up the shock with the control arm
Slide the lower shock bolt into the top of the shock and the control arm
Thread the nut onto the lower shock bolt
Torque the lower shock nut to 74 foot-pounds
Lower the jack
Hold the upper shock nut with an 18mm wrench
Torque the upper shock bolt to 52 foot-pounds
4. Installing the Wheel
Slide the wheel onto the hub
Start the lug nuts by hand
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern
Hi. I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Use a breaker bar and a 22mm socket to loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground. Just go around and loosen them all. Raise and support the vehicle. We're using a two-post lift. You can use a jack and jack stands. Use a socket and finish removing the lug nuts. Take the wheel and tire off.
The wheel and tire is stuck to the brake rotor. I have to put a lug nut on it. Put a second one on the opposite side here. Just lightly take a dead blow. We'll just break it free. It might take a couple hits. It might take one hit. The lug nuts keep it from falling off. Just put the wheel and tire aside.
If the shock bolt that goes through the top is covered with dirt, I’m going to take some rust penetrant, spray it on here, and with a wire brush, try and knock some of that dirt free so when I go to remove the nut it spins off the threads easily, so it doesn't get clogged up with dirt. I have to clean some of the dirt off the end. For the lower one, I'll do the same. Spray it with some rust penetrant.
I'll start by loosening but not removing the upper one. There isn't quite enough clearance to get an 18mm deep socket in here and a ratchet, so I'm going to use an 18mm box wrench. I'm going to loosen the nut, and I have a 15mm wrench to counterhold the bolts. Just keep going until you have the nut almost all the way off. You can change to the open ended part so it'll go a little quicker. I've got this loose but not all the way out. I'm going to spray some more rust penetrant in here. It is moving freely, but I want to make sure it comes out of this part of the shock.
The shock is mounted to the lower control arm with a large bolt that goes all the way through the control arm and is held on with a flange nut. Both of these are 21mm. I'm going to use a 21mm socket and a breaker bar. I'm going to hold the end of the bolt. I'm going to use a 21mm box wrench to break the nut free. It's a lot easier sometimes to break the nut free than try to turn the whole bolt.
I turn this pretty far out on the threads, and then I will use a floor jack to support the lower control arm and remove the lower bolt. Use our floor jack. I'll just lift up on the control arm just a tiny amount. Unthread this by hand now. Let's lift up on the jack a little bit. There it is. We're going to remove this upper nut from the long bolt. Give it a good push. Pull straight through, which is good, or else grab the shocks, and pull the bolt out. I'm just going to push the brake line just gently out of the way. I pulled the bolt out. I'm also supporting the shock. Just like that. Now, I'm just going to work on walking the shock out of the mount here. The hinge is caught on some dirt.
This is the original shock from our vehicle, and a brand new shock from 1AAuto.com. It comes wrapped with this shipping strap so it doesn't fully extend like this one is. I will actually install it with that in there. It also comes with this little conical washer to match the original. That'll go on the inside here. This'll fit great and work great in your vehicle.
I'm going to loosen this bracket here, these two 15mm bolts using a 15mm socket and ratchet. I'm not going to remove them, I'm just going to loosen them. That should give me enough movement. Install our shock. Okay, just slide the long bolt through. Install the nut. Tighten these bolts back up. Just go until they get tight. Now you cut this shipping strapping with some side cutters. The shock will start to expand.
This washer that comes with the new shock, the cone part is going to match the cone part in the control arm. Slide this over. You might have to push up the shock a little bit. Put the bolt through, just like that. The washer will go back around this side, and the large nut. Torque the lower bolt and nut to 74 foot-pounds. Lower the floor jack. I'm going to use a 15mm ratcheting wrench on the bolt end and counterhold the 18mm nut and snug this up. Counterhold the nut with the 18mm, and then torque the bolt's head 52 foot-pounds. It would be ideal if I could torque on the nut, but I can't get it in here with a deep socket.
Reinstall the wheel and tire. Thread the lug nuts on by hand. Now lower the vehicle to the ground and torque the lug nuts. Torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
15mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
15mm Socket
Rust Penetrant
17mm Socket
Jack Stands
21mm wrench
Side Cutters
Rubber Mallet
Dead Blow Hammer
Ratchet
Wire Brush
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
1. Removing the Wheel
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise and support the vehicle
Remove the lug nuts
Slide the wheel off the hub
If the wheel is stuck, thread on two lug nuts by hand
Strike the wheel with a dead blow hammer
Remove the lug nuts
Slide the wheel off the hub
2. Removing the Rear Shock
Apply rust penetrant to the shock bolts
Clean the shock bolts with a wire brush
Hold the upper shock bolt with a 15mm wrench
Loosen the upper shock nut with an 18mm wrench
Hold the lower shock bolt with a 21mm socket and a breaker bar
Loosen the lower shock nut with a 21mm wrench
Support the control arm with a floor jack
Remove the lower shock nut and bolt
Remove the upper shock nut and bolt
Pull the shock off its mount
3. Installing the Rear Shock
Loosen the two 15mm bolts in the shock mount bracket
Place the shock into the mount
Slide the upper shock bolt into the top of the shock and the mount
Thread the nut onto the upper shock bolt
Tighten the two 15mm bolts in the shock mount bracket
Cut the shipping strap off the shock with side cutters
Allow the shock to expand
Place the washer between the control arm and the shock
Line up the shock with the control arm
Slide the lower shock bolt into the top of the shock and the control arm
Thread the nut onto the lower shock bolt
Torque the lower shock nut to 74 foot-pounds
Lower the jack
Hold the upper shock nut with an 18mm wrench
Torque the upper shock bolt to 52 foot-pounds
4. Installing the Wheel
Slide the wheel onto the hub
Start the lug nuts by hand
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern
Hi. I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Use a breaker bar and a 22mm socket to loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground. Just go around and loosen them all. Raise and support the vehicle. We're using a two-post lift. You can use a jack and jack stands. Use a socket and finish removing the lug nuts. Take the wheel and tire off.
The wheel and tire is stuck to the brake rotor. I have to put a lug nut on it. Put a second one on the opposite side here. Just lightly take a dead blow. We'll just break it free. It might take a couple hits. It might take one hit. The lug nuts keep it from falling off. Just put the wheel and tire aside.
If the shock bolt that goes through the top is covered with dirt, I’m going to take some rust penetrant, spray it on here, and with a wire brush, try and knock some of that dirt free so when I go to remove the nut it spins off the threads easily, so it doesn't get clogged up with dirt. I have to clean some of the dirt off the end. For the lower one, I'll do the same. Spray it with some rust penetrant.
I'll start by loosening but not removing the upper one. There isn't quite enough clearance to get an 18mm deep socket in here and a ratchet, so I'm going to use an 18mm box wrench. I'm going to loosen the nut, and I have a 15mm wrench to counterhold the bolts. Just keep going until you have the nut almost all the way off. You can change to the open ended part so it'll go a little quicker. I've got this loose but not all the way out. I'm going to spray some more rust penetrant in here. It is moving freely, but I want to make sure it comes out of this part of the shock.
The shock is mounted to the lower control arm with a large bolt that goes all the way through the control arm and is held on with a flange nut. Both of these are 21mm. I'm going to use a 21mm socket and a breaker bar. I'm going to hold the end of the bolt. I'm going to use a 21mm box wrench to break the nut free. It's a lot easier sometimes to break the nut free than try to turn the whole bolt.
I turn this pretty far out on the threads, and then I will use a floor jack to support the lower control arm and remove the lower bolt. Use our floor jack. I'll just lift up on the control arm just a tiny amount. Unthread this by hand now. Let's lift up on the jack a little bit. There it is. We're going to remove this upper nut from the long bolt. Give it a good push. Pull straight through, which is good, or else grab the shocks, and pull the bolt out. I'm just going to push the brake line just gently out of the way. I pulled the bolt out. I'm also supporting the shock. Just like that. Now, I'm just going to work on walking the shock out of the mount here. The hinge is caught on some dirt.
This is the original shock from our vehicle, and a brand new shock from 1AAuto.com. It comes wrapped with this shipping strap so it doesn't fully extend like this one is. I will actually install it with that in there. It also comes with this little conical washer to match the original. That'll go on the inside here. This'll fit great and work great in your vehicle.
I'm going to loosen this bracket here, these two 15mm bolts using a 15mm socket and ratchet. I'm not going to remove them, I'm just going to loosen them. That should give me enough movement. Install our shock. Okay, just slide the long bolt through. Install the nut. Tighten these bolts back up. Just go until they get tight. Now you cut this shipping strapping with some side cutters. The shock will start to expand.
This washer that comes with the new shock, the cone part is going to match the cone part in the control arm. Slide this over. You might have to push up the shock a little bit. Put the bolt through, just like that. The washer will go back around this side, and the large nut. Torque the lower bolt and nut to 74 foot-pounds. Lower the floor jack. I'm going to use a 15mm ratcheting wrench on the bolt end and counterhold the 18mm nut and snug this up. Counterhold the nut with the 18mm, and then torque the bolt's head 52 foot-pounds. It would be ideal if I could torque on the nut, but I can't get it in here with a deep socket.
Reinstall the wheel and tire. Thread the lug nuts on by hand. Now lower the vehicle to the ground and torque the lug nuts. Torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
PSA69630
In Stock
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Customer Q&A
Where are these made and what's the brand, does this product come with all new mounting hardware??April 16, 2020
Rashawn S
10
1A Auto's house brand parts are manufactured by various aftermarket companies specifically for us and built to your vehicle's exact OEM specifications. Please let us know if you have any other questions. New hardware is not included with this item. You may be able to reuse your original hardware if it is in good condition. Please let us know if you have any other questions.
April 17, 2020
Andra M
Customer service
877-844-3393
Monday - Friday 8:00am - 9:30pm ET Saturday - Sunday 8:00am - 4:30pm ET
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