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Product Features
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
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In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the a rear sway bar link on this 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo. We'll show you on the passenger's side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this is a new rear sway bar link from 1AAuto.com, 18mm and 19mm socket and ratchet, 14mm wrench and jack and jack stands.
Loosen up the lug nut caps, pull your hub cap off, and then remove the lug nuts. You want to loosen these while the vehicle is on the ground, then raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way if you don't have air-powered tools. Then just pull the wheel off.
Using a 14mm wrench on the back and an 18 mm socket and ratchet, just remove this nut, and then repeat the process down here, removing this nut and then your sway bar link will pull free. Then remove the sway bar link from the driver's side as well.
On the left is the old sway bar link; on the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see that they're very similar, and they'll fit exactly the same. Take your new sway bar link, push it onto place, and once both studs are pushed through, replace the nuts and tighten them up.
Replace your wheel and then replace the lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Then lower the vehicle, tighten them the rest of the way, and then torque each of these to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Replace your hubcap and tighten up these lug nut caps.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an outer tie rod on this 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo. We show you on the passenger's side but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items that you'll need for this is a new outer tie rod from 1AAuto.com; 7, 17 and 19mm socket and ratchet; two adjustable wrenches; a hammer; pliers; a tape measure; a grease gun; and jack and jack stands.
Start off by just loosening up these lug nut caps. Now, you can remove your lug nuts. If you don't have air powered tools, you want to loosen these up while the vehicle is on the ground, then raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way. If you do have air powered tools, you can just remove them right here. You can just pull your wheel off.
Measure from the boot on your inner tie rod to this grease fitting on your outer tie rod and just remember this distance. Then, you want to loosen up this nut right here and put one wrench on the outer tie rod, one on the nut and push opposite directions to loosen it up. We recommend using two adjustable wrenches. Next remove the cottering pin from the bottom of the outer tie rod, just use your pliers to straighten out the pin and then pull it free. Now, remove this 17mm castle nut. Hit the knuckle with a hammer. This will loosen up the outer tie rod and you can lift it up and out. Just turn the outer tie rod counterclockwise until it comes free and then remove this nut.
On the left is the old outer tie rod, on the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same. Put your new nut into place and then twist the outer tie rod on. Then, lift your outer tie rod up and into the wheel knuckle. Just push it down through. Measure it again from the end of the boot to the middle of the grease fitting and make sure it's the same. This is a good preliminarily alignment, but you probably still want to go get your vehicle aligned and have it adjusted and then put the castle nut back on, tighten it up, and then push the cotter pin through and bend the tabs in opposite directions. Using your two adjustable wrenches, just tighten this nut up. Then twist in your grease fitting, and using either a 7mm socket and ratchet or a 7mm wrench, just tighten it up. Then, using your grease gun, fill it with grease. Clean up any that came out on the sides. Turn your wheel. Then put your wheel back into place and replace the lug nuts. While the car is on the jacks, you want to replace the lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle, and then tighten them the rest of the way. Torque each of the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Then replace your hub cap and tighten up those lug nut caps.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front sway bar link on a 2006 Chevy Impala. It's the same for model years 2000 through 2012, and the procedure is exactly the same on the left side, and on the right side. To perform this repair, you'll need a 13, 14, and 19 millimeter sockets and socket wrench; 13 and 14 millimeter wrenches; some penetrating oil; a hammer; flat blade screwdriver; and a jack and jack stands.
Start by loosening the five plastic lug nut covers that hold the wheel cover to the wheel. For taking off the wheel, you'll be using that same 19 millimeter socket, but if you don't have the benefit of a lift or air tools, start with it on the ground. Loosen up your five lug nuts slightly. Get it safely on some jack stands and then proceed to remove the five lug nuts with your socket, socket wrench and breaker bar. Then take off your tire. I
'm going to turn the steering knuckle there a little bit so you can get a good look at the sway bar link, which is between the control arm and the sway bar. I'm using a 13 millimeter socket and socket wrench, on the bottom, and then I'm counter holding it with a 13 millimeter wrench up top, and I'm going to go ahead and fast forward as I loosen those up. The bolt that goes through the center there is quite corroded and sticking to the rubber bushing, so I'm going to use some penetrating oil. I'm going to try and separate the bushings and those washers, as well as the bolt that goes through the control arm, all the bushings, and the sway bar, using a flat, long screwdriver to try and get some room, and start to pull that away. Once I do, I can just use a hammer on the top and tap it out. As you pull everything out, you'll just want to remember the position of everything, how the bushings and the washers go in.
Here you'll see the old part, rusted and corroded, and the new part from 1A Auto. That, there, is how it will go back into the car. I'm going to start with a rubber bushing against the control arm and then a washer. On top of the washer I'm going to place the metal sleeve. I'm going to use the pry bar to lift up so that I can get, then, another rubber bushing, place it on top of the sleeve with a washer underneath it. As I lift it up then I can let it down and it'll fall right into place. I've got the bolt going from the bottom with a rubber bushing. It's got the bolt, then a washer and then the rubber bushing that's going to be sitting next to or against the control arm. You can see there. You might have to twist or pull some of the stuff to get it to line up so it goes through. Again, here, I'm using a hammer. I'm going to use the pry bar again to pry up on that sway bar to give me a little bit more room. Then once I get that pushed through, I'm going to put another rubber bushing and a washer, and then the nut. Then, to summarize, from the bottom up, you've got the bolt, washer, rubber bushing, control arm, rubber bushing, washer, sleeve, washer, rubber bushing, then the top of the sway bar, then a rubber bushing, a washer, and then the nut. I'll go ahead and fast forward as I use a 14mm wrench and a 14 millimeter socket and socket wrench to tighten up the sway bar link.
I'm reinstalling the wheel and I'm going to tighten by hand the five lug nuts. Then, once I do that, I'm going to tighten them back up with the impact wrench, and then as I get the car down, I'm going to use a 19 millimeter socket with a torque wrench, and torque all five lug nuts in a star pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Then, go ahead and reinstall your hub cab, lining up the notch in the hub cap with the valve stem, and then go ahead and tighten up those plastic lug nut covers
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out. And the next time you need a part for your vehicle think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace the front struts on a 2006 Chevy Impala. It's the same operation for the left side and the right side and we always recommend that you do replace struts in pairs. In order to do this repair you're going to need some new struts from 1A Auto. A 21 and 19 and 13 millimeter socket and socket wrench. A hammer. A pry-bar. A pipe for extra leverage if you need it. As well as a torque wrench.
Remove the hubcap by hand using a 19 millimeter socket. If you don't have the benefit of air-tools you'll want to loosen the lug-nuts with the vehicle on the ground first. Then raise and support the vehicle and remove the lug-nuts from the tire. Locate the two 21 millimeter nuts. Using a 21 millimeter socket, a socket wrench and a pipe for extra leverage to remove the two nuts on the strut. I will go ahead and fast-forward as I remove those.
Use a hammer to knock free the two bolts that go through the strut and spindle. Use a long screw-driver or pry-bar to pry the spindle free from the strut. Locate and remove three 13 millimeter nuts on the strut-top. As you're removing the last nut, hold the strut so that it doesn't just come falling down. Here you see a side by side of the old part and the new part from 1A Auto. Going back in with the strut. Start from the bottom. Line up the three holes. And then start your three 13 millimeters nuts up top. Once you get them all started go ahead and tighten them up and I'll fast-forward as I do that. Now line up the strut with the spindle and match up the holes. You might have to pull down or push up on the spindle and hub assembly there to line them up. Go ahead and put in your two bolts. Then once you get the bolts in use a hammer to seat them into that spindle and lower strut assembly.
Now reinstall the two 21 millimeter nuts and go ahead and tighten them down. Torque the two nuts to a hundred foot pounds. Reinstall the wheel and the five lug-nuts. Torque your wheel lug-nuts to a hundred foot pounds. Once you're done torqueing the lug-nuts in a star pattern reinstall your hubcap. And make sure you see the little notch in the hubcap and put it over the valve-stem. And once you've done that you can start with just the socket itself tightening up those five 19 millimeter lug-nut cap-covers.
And after you replace your struts it is recommended that you get an alignment on your vehicle. We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's for you on the internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a lower control arm on this 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo. We'd show you on the passenger side, but it's the same procedure on the driver side. The items you'll need for this include a new lower control arm from 1AAuto.com, 13mm, 14mm, 18mm, 19mm and 21mm socket and ratchet, T55 Torx bit, 14mm, 19mm, and 21 mm wrenches, pliers, flat blade screwdriver, hammer, ball joint fork, and Jack and Jack stands.
Start off by just loosening up these lug nut caps. Now, you can remove your lug nut. If you don't have air-powered tools, you want to loosen these up while the vehicle is on the ground, then raise the vehicle, and remove them the rest of the way. If you do have air-powered tools, you can just remove them right here, and you can just pull your wheel off.
Spray your sway bar link with some penetrating fluid to make it easier to remove. And then, using a 14 mm wrench and socket and ratchet, just remove the nut on top of the sway bar link. That actually comes apart easily. It's not uncommon, but sometimes the link is totally broken, and you don't even have to do this step. You just pull the remains out. Also, sometimes, they're frozen up so bad, you have to use a sawzall or a torch to cut the links out.Pull the top bushings off and push the sway bar link down and out, and then remove the bushings in the center.
Replace a couple of lug nuts to hold the rotor in place. Using a pair of pliers, remove this cotter pin at the top of your ball joint. Now, jack up underneath the wheel. Using a 19mm wrench and a hammer, just loosen up this castle nut. You want to loosen it until it's only on by a few threads. Now, hammer the knuckle, and the ball joint should loosen up, and you should be able to pull it down.
If this isn't the case, you're going to need a ball joint splitter or a ball joint fork and just hammer it in between the knuckle and the ball joint to separate them. Now, remove that nut the rest of the way, and then lower the jack. Next, you want to remove these two 21mm nuts. The bolt is actually a T57 head, which is a fairly rare tool. We actually get by using a T55 with two people. Just make sure you hold that T55 Torx bit in there well, and you can do it.
For this bolt, you want to use a 19mm socket and ratchet and a 21mm wrench to remove it. Now, pull those two bolts free, and then you can pull the control arm down and over. Then just pull out this last corner, you will have to maneuver it a little bit, it's in there pretty good usually. That will pull out, and then the control arm is free.
On the left is the old lower control arm; on the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same. Take your lower control arm and push in the ball joint side first, then curve it back and push in this side. Now, you want to turn this so that the hole through the bolt is on the side so you can get your cotter pin back through it. You want to just angle the ball joint up into the knuckle. You may have to move the knuckle a little bit. Once you have it pushed into place, replace that castle nut, line up the holes right here on the control arm, and push your bolt through. Jack up the knuckle and tighten that castle nut a little bit more.
Once you get it at an angle that you can get the bolt up through the ball joint, just push the bolt through. Hammer the other bolt through and replace the nuts on both. Tighten up that castle nut. Push your cotter pin through and bend the tabs in opposite directions. Be sure to bend it in a way that the cotter pin ends don't have a change of going up and scraping along the CV joint boot.
Now, tighten up this bolt, and tighten this bolt. Take your sway bar link and put the center bushings in first, and then run your sway bar link up through the bushings. Replace the top bushing and the washer and nut, and just twist that nut on. Once you have it on there securely, you want to lower your vehicle down on to the jack stands so that all the pressure is on the suspension, and then tighten up the sway bar the rest of the way.
Replace your wheel and each of the lug nuts. You want to just tighten them preliminarily, then lower the vehicle, and tighten them the rest of the way.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I am one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this, to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we will be replacing the hub on this '98 Pontiac Grand Prix. This hub fits a whole bunch of different GM cars, Buick Century, Regal, Cadillac Deville, Eldorado, Olds Mobile, Chevy Impala, Monte Carlo, Bonneville, Grand Prix, Montana Transport, Chevy Venture, all kinds of different stuff. Here's the list of tools you need for the Grand Prix. Really what you need is basically metric sockets from 13 mm up to 19 mm, plus the large hub nut, which is anywhere from 32 to 35 mm and then the rest of the stuff and plus throw in there some penetrating oil and a hammer and rubber mallet.
If your hub doesn't come apart as easily as the one that did in this video, you may need an axle or a gear puller. If you are working with hand tools, start on the ground. Remove your lug nut covers, and loosen up your lug nuts. I've got the benefit of air tools, so I'm going to raise and secure the car and remove the wheel and tire.
I've removed the wheel and turned the wheels all the way to the right here, so I can access the brake caliper bolts, which is the inside ones, one here and then this one here. Those bolts are 15 mm, I am going to remove them. You don't want the brake hose on the caliper to be stressed, so I just kind of took a wire tie and tied the caliper up here, then remove the brake disc. Be careful not to touch the disc and if you do touch it, just clean it off with some rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits when you put it back together.
There's three bolts that hold the hub on. I'll go in behind here and show them to you. There's one here, one up in the middle there, and then back here next to the, this is the steering tie rod, there is one right there. It'll help probably using a little penetrating oil, right on the opposite side. Now we are going to remove those bolts. They are 13 mm, 1/2 inch is a standard equivalent actually it fits, but I am using 3/8 drive tools, so I going to remove those three bolts and the reason you have to use this size tool, is to get in behind on this top one, you need smaller tools in order to get in there. Then you get a nice big handle to work it.
I'm just going to kind of fast forward through here. As I remove these three bolts and as you can tell, they take quite a bit of force to get going. It will help if you have a large breaker bar and then just swivel the steering back and forth to make it easy to get to the bolts on each side. Now I am going to remove the middle hub nut. I have impact tools, so that makes it really easy. If you don't have impact tools, what you want to do is, before you remove the brake caliper, have somebody hold the brakes and then with hand tools, you can pull that hub nut off. This hub nut is 35 mm, so you'll need a 35 mm socket.
Now you need to get the axle back out. You don't want to use a hammer and whack it hard, but what I'd do is just give it a check. If I see it move a little bit with the hammer, which it does, then I would have you break out the rubber mallet and whack away. Rubber mallet is not going to hurt the insides of your CV joint. Now I got the two lower bolts out and the top one is really loose, so now it is kind of a matter of not being nice. You got to pound on each side of the flange and the hub and slowly work the flange out of the steering knuckle.
I have the hub work loose, now I am just removing the top bolt the rest of the way. I just kind of left it in there in case I hit it hard enough and it just came flying out, just safety. Unplug the harness right here and flip up this with your thumb and pull it off. This is what you would rather not see happen. Basically, the hub has been in there so long, the back part stayed in the steering knuckle and this came apart, so what I am going to have to do is use some driving tools and just try and drive the rest of it out of the steering knuckle.
As you see, it turns out to be not much of a problem. You just beat on it with the punch and hammer and it pops out. Don't worry about damaging it or anything like that. I poked a few holes in it.
You just want to push the clip off of this bracket and the rest of that comes out. Push in on the axle and kind of up a little bit and your connector comes out.
Clean up some of the corrosion on here. I'm just gonna use some penetrating oil just to lubricate it. Now it's ready for the new one to go in. Okay, here's our new hub from 1A Auto and not only is it prettier and shinier, it's all in one piece, as it should be, as opposed to three separate pieces. If you kinda use your imagination here this is all the same, it's gonna bolt up the same and now we are gonna put it in and it's not going to make a big groaning grinding noise.
Okay so that ends this part of this video, part one. Check out our other videos to see the installation of the hub.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace the outer tie rod on this 2006 Chevy Impala. It's similar for 2000 through 2009, as well as from the left side to the right side. Also keep in mind that any time you're replacing suspension and steering components, we always recommend that you get an alignment afterward. In order to perform this repair, you'll need a jack and jack stands; 7mm, 18mm, and 19mm socket wrench; needle nose pliers; 13mm wrench; a 7/8" or a 22mm wrench; and a tape measure.
By hand, loosen the plastic lug nut covers until they release from the lug nuts themselves. Go ahead and pull off your hubcap. You're going to use the same size 19mm sockets to remove the lug nuts once you get that cover off. If you don't have the benefit of using a lift or air tools, what you'll want to do is remove or loosen up the five lug nuts just slightly with a socket and socket wrench and breaker bar, and then, once you've got it jacked up and on the jack stands, you can proceed to remove them completely with your socket and socket wrench.
Your outer tie rod end is going to be attached to your spindle on the back side, and you'll see it there. I'm going to start by using a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the cotter pin that goes through the end of the ball joint. I'm using an 18mm socket and socket wrench to remove the nut on the bottom of the outer tie rod. I'm measuring the distance from a fixed point at the boot of the inner tie rod with the center of the outer tie rod. This will give us a good starting point for when we install the new one. We can set it up to the same measurement, and that will give us a good preliminary alignment. The nut on the inner tie rod that sits against the outer tie rod is 7/8" or 22mm. Go ahead and loosen that up. I'm going to just slightly install that nut again, and give it a couple whacks to get it to pop out of the spindle. Now I'm removing the outer tie rod.
Here you can see the new tie rod on the left, from 1A Auto, and the old tie rod. It's going to be an exact match and install just like the original. Install your grease fitting and tighten it down with a 7mm socket and socket wrench.
Install the outer tie rod to the point of where the nut is on the inner tie rod, and then put it into its position on the spindle. Install the new nut that came with the outer tie rod. Measure the distance again from the boot to the center of the tie rod. Make sure it matches; adjust it if you need to. Then we can tighten up that nut. I'm going to install the new cotter pin. Put it through the threaded portion and the crown nut that you just tightened. Then peel the ears back so that it won't come loose. Use your 7/8" or 22mm to hold the nut and that 13mm wrench to hold the inner tie rod, and go ahead and tighten those down. Use a grease gun, attach it to the fitting on the outer tie rod, and squeeze until you're sure that it's full.
Reinstall the wheel and start by hand-tightening the lug nuts. With some pressure, back on the ground, torque your five lug nuts to 100 foot pounds. Then, by hand, tighten up the plastic lug nut covers, making sure that you're lining up the hole in your hubcap with the valve stem. I'll go ahead and fast forward as I do that.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
PSA59133
