Kit Includes: (2) Front Sway Bar Links (2) Front Strut & Spring Assemblies
Specification
Build Date
To 12/22/09 Production Date
Location
Front
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Anti-Corrosion Coated: Enhanced surface life
Pre-greased: No additional maintenance required
Kitted for Restored Performance: Improved road-feel and handling
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Upper Strut Mount
Strut Bearing
Coil Spring
Boot & Bumper Kit
Gas-charged Strut
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How to Replace Strut Assembly 2000-05 Ford Focus
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Links 2000-2007 Ford Focus
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Links 2000-09 Ford Focus
How to Replace Front Strut Spring Assemblies 2000-2007 Ford Focus
Created on:
Tools used
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
13mm Socket
15mm Socket
17mm Socket
17mm Wrench
19mm Socket
Hammer
Ratchet
Rust Penetrant
Socket Extensions
T30 Driver
Torque Wrench
1. Accessing the Shocks and Struts
Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel while the car is on the ground
Jack the car up and remove the lug nuts and wheel
Pull the brake line from the bracket
Pull the ABS sensor out of its bracket
Remove the bolt on the upper stabilizer link. Spray with penetrating oil
Spray the bolt on the back side of the strut with penetrating oil
Use a socket to remove the 15mm bolt on the steering knuckle
2. Removing the Strut
Spray penetrating oil where the strut connect with the steering knuckle
Use a 15mm socket to disconnect the tie rod. Use a jack and some wood to hold the tie rod up to help remove the bolt
If the vehicle has a broken spring lift up on the strut and hammer the steering knuckle until it loosens
Lift the strut up and out of the steering knuckle
Remove the three 13mm bolts up in the engine compartment
Pull the strut free
3. Installing a New Strut
With the clip on the bottom of the strut facing inward, put the strut into place
Replace the bolts in the engine compartment
Pull the steering knuckle out and slide it on to the bottom of the strut
Replace the bolt that connects the strut to the steering knuckle. Do not tighten fully
Make sure the steering knuckle is below the taper on the strut
Make sure its at the right depth and moves properly
Tighten the bolt on the steering knuckle to between 65 and 70ft/lbs
4. Reconnecting the Brackets and Sensors
Put the brake line back in place
Put the tie rod back in place and replace the nut
Replace the stabilizer link and bracket. Tighten the nut
Put the ABS sensor back in place
Jack the tie rod up and tighten the nut to 55 to 60ft/lbs
Replace the wheel and thread the lug nuts
Lower the car and tighten the lug nuts to 100ft/lbs in a crossing pattern
Tighten the bolts in the engine compartment to between 25 and 30ft/lbs
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet
Hi I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com, thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front strut and spring assembly on this 2003 Ford Focus, pretty much the same for any 2000 to 2011 Focus. We're going to show you the passenger's side. The driver's side is basically the same procedure. We do always recommend that you replace your struts in pairs.
You'll need new struts from 1A Auto, jack and jack stands, 13 to 19mm sockets with all the accompanying ratchets, extensions and you'll need a breaker bar or pipe for some extra leverage, large hammer. You may need to get off the stabilizer link and nut, you may need a 17mm wrench with a T30 Torx driver. You'll also need some penetrating oil and a torque wrench to put everything back together correctly.
Remove the wheel and tire. You can use your lug wrench that comes with the vehicle. If you're using your lug wrench and hand tools, you want to have the tire on the ground. Loosen the lug nuts first, then raise and support the car and remove the lug nuts. You will need kind of a thin walled socket. Regular impact sockets don't really fit in here.
I'm going to fast forward as I remove the lug nuts, and then, actually, I realize the wheel is stuck on so I thread two lug nuts back on and use a little bit of an alternative method to remove the wheel.
Underneath here, you want to detach a couple of things, the break line pull that out of that bracket. Your ABS sensor, pull that out of here and out of the way. Then, we're going to remove this bolt that holds the upper stabilizer link. First, we're going to spray with some penetrating oil. When we spray that one, we're going to spray the one down here as well that holds the bolt right here that pitches on to the strut and we're going to try to spray the back side of that as much as we can.
Now, a 17mm wrench and put on there and we're going to then hook up the 18mm wrench on like this. It gives us more leverage and we're going to see the nuts actually coming off. What you can do is I have a T30 Torx Driver here. If this starts spinning, just insert that in there and we can hold it steady. It's coming off okay, then hammer. Next is the bolt that holds the strut into the steering knuckle right there. It's a 15mm. Then put a socket with an extension on it to get it clear of this break line. If you have a breaker bar like this, you want to use that. If not, you can use your ratchet. Just use a piece of pipe to give you some extra leverage. I'll just fast forward. You want to take that bolt all the way out. Just spray some penetrating oil where that strut goes in to the steering knuckle.
Get a 15mm socket and disconnect your tie rod in here. The best way to do it is keep the nut as close right up flush with the stud and tie rod. I'm going to repeat the hammer. Once you break the tie rod loose, the stud will start spinning in it so what I did is I took some wood and my jack, jacked up the tie rod into the steering knuckle that holds it in place. I can remove the nut the rest of the way, and then I should just take a light tap and knock the tie rod back out. This vehicle has a broken spring so I actually have lift up on the strut and then hit the steering knuckle until everything comes loose. Then I force the strut up and take the strut out of the steering. Up in the engine compartment, there are three 13mm bolts and they usually come out pretty easy and sometimes they actually break but that's not a big deal if they break off, your new strut assembly comes with new ones.
You can see. Problem with our old strut, right there, a broken spring, not uncommon on these vehicles. This strut is from 1A Auto. It comes all assembled as one piece with the coil spring already on there. It makes it easy to install. I'll remove these. You'll want to put that up in there. I'm going to put it up in there so that this is to the inside. I'm just going to put it in and through here. Take a peek here, just looking at the studs, get them up through. They come up through. Put these bolts on and the nuts. Tighten up the nuts in there. Remember to tighten that with this. Now, continue to be really careful of this harness here. Take care of your strut and your suspension when you're getting that strut right in that groove there. Pull along the strut and pull the steering knuckle out. Push everything together. Now, put a bolt that pinches the steering knuckle back on to the strut in and push on it with your wrench and start it in but don't tighten it yet.
Now, you want to make sure that before you tighten this bolt up, okay, you want to make sure your strut is in the right position. Basically you want to have it so the inside here is just below and then the outside is just flush. The strut is actually indented. You don't want to be too high on the strut. I can probably show you better on this strut here. You can see that the strut comes out and you want to be down below. Your taper is here and you want to make sure you're down below the taper where you tighten it up.
The strut and steering knuckle move around, let's make sure we have it at the right depth. Then use a torque wrench to tighten this bolt between 65 and 70 foot. You're going to put this break back in place, and take your tie rod in and put the wheel over, the tie rod back up in and just kind of put the nut on the tie rod for now to kind of hold it in place and then the stabilizer link here. Get it through. Put this strut back on. As you tighten this up the stud is not spinning, put that back in place. Put that back in place up here. I'm going to fast forward here as I use a jack. Jack the tie rod right on to the tie rod, up into the suspension that holds the stud in place in the steering knuckle. Then you tighten up the nut and torque it to 55 to 60-foot pounds. Put the wheel back on.
I'm going to fast forward here. Put the wheel on. Make sure you thread the lug nuts on a few turns, finger-tight just to make sure that they're not cross threading. Then tighten your lug nuts up preliminarily and then you're going to put the vehicle on the ground and torque the lug nuts. You want to torque the lug nuts to a 100-foot pounds and give me a crossing pattern. These nuts up here, torque between 25 and 30-foot pounds.
We hope this helps you out, brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
15mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
Hammer
17mm Wrench
15mm Socket
18mm Wrench
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
Safety Glasses
Locking Pliers
Gloves
Wheel Chocks
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Tools used
Socket Extensions
Torque Wrench
15mm Socket
18mm Wrench
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
1. Removing the Wheel
Remove the lug nut covers with a 19mm socket
Loosen the 18mm lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the 18mm lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Front Sway Bar Links
Loosen the upper sway bar link bolt with a 15mm socket and ratchet and an 18mm wrench
Remove the upper portion of the sway bar link
Insert the upper portion and gently tighten the nut
Loosen the lower sway bar link bolt with a 15mm socket and ratchet and an 18mm wrench
3. Installing the Front Sway Bar Links
Insert the upper portion of the sway bar link in place
Insert the lower portion of the sway bar link in place
Counter hold the upper portion with an 18mm wrench
Tighten the upper nut with an 15mm socket and ratchet
Repeat for the lower portion
Tighten the top and bottom nuts 37 foot-pounds of torque
4. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 98 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Tighten the lug nut covers
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
We're going to be working on this 2001 Ford Focus. The first thing we're going to do is we're going to take the tire off. One thing to note, this has these little caps that go over the lug nuts. There's two that are missing on this vehicle, regular ones are 19 millimeter, but because the caps are missing, we're going to have to use an 18 millimeter socket to get those off.
So we'll use a 19 millimeter socket and a breaker bar. Just crack these free before we put the vehicle up. Now I'll switch to the 18. These are really tight, normally they shouldn't be this tight. We're using a two post lift to raise and support the vehicle. You can use a jack and jack stands. Now we'll take these lug nuts off, use a little ratchet and an 18 millimeter socket. Take this last lug nut off, take the tire off. Just hit it a couple times.
This one's kind of tight so we're going to hit it off with a hammer. So I put one lug nut on, that's to prevent the wheel from going falling off when I hammer it off with a dead blow. And I'm going to hit right here really hard on the tire and it will pop right off. Now we'll take this lug nut off and pull the wheel off. We're going to remove the sway bar link. These nuts are very rusty so what I'm going to use is some rust penetrant right here. Soak that down and then the one on the inside as well. Do that before we start, that'll help us out. I'm going to use a wrench on the back side of this sway bar link. There's a nut that will keep the stud from spinning so I'll use an 18 millimeter wrench that'll hold that while I take this nut out on the outside.
I'm going to use a 15 millimeter socket and a ratchet. I should be able to take it off by hand, you can pull the stud through like that. Now I'm going to use that 18 millimeter wrench on the back side again, on this bottom one, just like I did on the top and then I'm going to use a 15 millimeter socket and a breaker bar to get this nut off. Just get it loosened first. Once it's broken free I'm going to use my 15 millimeter socket and ratchet. Take this nut off, pull that off, we'll take the wrench off and then pull the link straight out.
Here's our old sway bar link, here's our new sway bar link from 1AAuto.com. Comes with new nuts, comes with the same lock so that you can that you can put a wrench on so that it's easier to install and remove. Get yours at 1AAuto.com and you'll be ready to rock and roll.
All right, so we're going to slide the new link in. We're going to have this bottom stud go towards the center of the car and then this top stud is going to come towards the outside of the car. You can lift up on this sway bar, just get them to both line up. Once they're both lined up we can put the nuts, get those started, get that one started, then we'll get the bottom one started down here.
All right, then we're going to tighten this up with our 15 millimeter socket and a ratchet and make sure you hold the stud with your 18 millimeter wrench. Now we're going to use the 15 millimeter socket on a torque wrench. We're going to tighten this to 37 foot-pounds. We sell these torque wrenches at 1AAuto.com. Tighten the top nut the same as the bottom. Right, that's snug. Now we're going to torque it with the torque wrench to 37 foot-pounds.
Pull our 18 millimeter wrench out. So this wheel and tire when coming off the vehicle actually took a lot of effort to get it off. One of the reasons why is because of the two dissimilar metals corroding. You had the metal from the hub and also the aluminum from the wheel corroding together. So we're going to take a wire brush, just lightly on the wheel go around and clean that up a little bit. You don't want to do too much. You really don't want to sand down the wheel and cause any damage to the wheel but just get a little bit of that off. Just like that and then over on the hub we can go all around the hub, clean all this corrosion off of here, and this will help getting the wheel on and off. One of the things to help prevent this from happening is using a little bit of anti-seize lubricant. I don't like to use a whole lot of this, just a little bit, and only on instances where it's really bad so we'll just put a little bit on there then next time we take the wheel off it will be easier.
Now we're going to throw the wheel up and it went right on. Put our lug nuts on, just tighten these lug nuts. I'm going to torque these lug nuts with a 19 millimeter socket and a torque wrench to 98 foot pounds. We sell these torque wrenches at 1AAuto.com. You're going to do it in a cross pattern so that it tightens the wheel properly. And I'll switch to my 18 millimeter socket for these other lug nuts.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
13mm Socket
Torque Wrench
15mm Socket
18mm Wrench
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
Strut Spring Compression Tool
Safety Glasses
Pliers
Gloves
Wheel Chocks
Floor Jack
PSA56398
In Stock
Product Reviews
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Great value package for 2009 Ford Focus
Timothy
July 17, 2018
The price of this package was so good that I was a little concerned about the quality. The parts installed relatively easily and functioned well. Time will tell if they will hold up over the long term, but they got a well worn car (127,000 miles) back on the road with minimal expense.
Great quality!
S
November 15, 2018
I purchased some new struts for my 09 Ford Focus. Delivery time was very quick and the packaging was nice and presentable. It didnt take me long at all to swap out my old struts for the new ones and installation was a piece of cake.
Another perfect fit as always
Ryan
April 30, 2020
Fits my 08 focus perfectly
Less than satisfied.
Richard
June 27, 2023
First set I bought about a year ago made a terrible thumping going over bumps and potholes, particularly at slow speeds, and blew out the stabilizers. Recently replaced with the above item and no change. Needless to say I'm less than satisfied with my experience.
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Ford is a registered trademark of Ford Motor Company. 1A Auto is not affiliated with or sponsored by Ford or Ford Motor Company.See all trademarks.
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