Created on: 2016-05-31
Learn what the steps are for changing the oil and oil filter on the 05-09 Audi A4 with this how-to video
Funnel
Torque Wrench
Jack Stands
19mm Wrench
19mm Socket
Engine Oil
Pick
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Oil Filter Wrench
Phillips Head Screwdriver
Drain Pan
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Cloth Rags
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we are going to show you how to do an oil change on this 2007 Audi A4. It has the 2.0 liter turbo 4. It’s the same process for many different Audi's with this motor.
You'll need a flat blade screwdriver, Philips screwdriver, maybe even a Torx bit, drain pan, 19mm socket and racket or wrench, torque wrench, rag, strap wrench or oil filter wrench, 90 degree pick, new oil filter and oil, and a funnel.
Open your hood, and locate your oil cap. Remove the oil cap from the engine, raise and support your vehicle. Remove the quarter turn flat blade fasteners at the bottom of the bumper. Normally there are three here. There are several underneath. A lot of these bumpers are missing these fasteners: they've become cracked, damaged, lost, what have you. Just find all the ones you can. There are a few more at the back. There are a couple of Philips – occasionally these are Torx – a at the front of the wheel wells. Remove the screws inside the wheel well, which will allow you to remove the belly pan from the bottom of the car.
Setup a drain bucket under your oil pan. Remove the 19mm drain plug. Set the drain plug somewhere clean while you wait for the oil to drain. When the oil is finished draining, reinstall your drain plug. Torque the drain plug to 22 foot pounds. Wipe any excess oil of the bottom of the pan.
Just to give you an idea, our drain plug is over here at the front right of the motor. Our oil filter is back here, at the rear left just before the bell housing on the transmission. If you don't have a big enough socket for the bottom of the oil filter, the regular strap wrench should work. Make sure you have a drain bucket underneath. Spin the oil housing off the rest of the way. Remove the old oil filter from the housing. Using a 90 degree pick, hook the tab, the old gasket to remove it.
Get some oil on the new gasket. Reinstall it with the tab facing up into the housing. Take your new filter cartridge, put it in till it bottoms out. To reinstall your oil filter, get it as tight as you can by hand.
Put a funnel in your oil fill. For this motor, the manufacturer recommends 4.8 quarts of 540 full synthetic oil. Once you have your oil in, remove the funnel, and reinstall the oil cap.
Start the car, allow it to run for a few seconds so oil can circulate fully through the motor. Shut it off and recheck your level.
Remove the dipstick, wipe it off with a rag or paper towel. Reinstall it all the way. Remove it. Make sure the level is full. We're just between our hash marks in our maximum line, so we know that our oil is full. Check the bottom of the engine after you've run the motor for any kind of oil leaks. Everything looks good.
Reinstall your lower engine cover. Reinstall whatever fasteners you had to remove for the belly pan. In our case they are mostly quarter turn flat blades. Yours may be secured with something different.
To reset the service light, hold down the wrench button, turn your key on, and when you see the service light, click the double zeros next to it. It will go back to your regular menu. Confirm that the service light is off by shutting the key off, and turning it back on. It will come back on next time you're due for an oil change.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.