How to Replace Blower Motor Resistor 1995-2011 Ford Ranger
Created on: 2016-10-27
New Blower Motor Resistor from 1AAuto.com How to repair, install, fix, change or replace a bad or broken blower motor resistor on 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, 00, 01, 02, 03, 04, 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11 Ford Ranger
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step 1 :Removing the Wheel
- Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
- Remove the wheel lock lug nut with a wheel lock key
- Loosen the 19mm lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
- Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
- Secure the vehicle on jack stands
- Remove the lug nuts
- Pull off the wheel
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step 2 :Removing the Inner Wheel Well Liner
- Remove the three 7mm bolts from the mud flap
- Pry off the clips from the mud flap
- Remove the three 5.5mm screws from the liner
- Remove the four 8mm bolts from the liner
- Remove the plastic clip on the backside of the fender
- Remove the liner from the fender
- Remove the vacuum lines on the vacuum reservoir
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step 3 :Removing the Blower Motor Resistor
- Release the blower motor resistor wiring harness clips with a flat blade screwdriver
- Disconnect the wiring harness
- Remove the two 8mm bolts from the blower motor resistor
- Pull the blower motor resistor out of the heater box
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step 4 :Installing the Blower Motor Resistor
- Put the blower motor resistor into the heater box
- Insert the two 8mm bolts into the blower motor resistor
- Connect the wiring harness to the blower motor resistor
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step 5 :Installing the Inner Wheel Well Liner
- Reinstall the vacuum lines onto the reservoir
- Insert the wheel well liner into the car
- Tighten the four 8mm screws to the liner
- Tighten the three 5.5mm screws
- Insert the outside edge into place
- Insert the plastic clips to the mud flap
- Tighten the three 7mm screws to the mud flap
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step 6 :Reattaching the Wheel
- Slide the wheel into place
- Start the lug nuts by hand
- Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
- Lower the vehicle to the ground
- Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds of torque in a crossing or star pattern
- Reattach the center cap
Tools needed
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Socket Extensions
Flat Blade Screwdriver
5.5mm Socket
Jack Stands
8mm Socket
19mm Socket
7mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
3/8 Inch Breaker Bar
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over thirty years. We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. We've created thousands of videos to help you install our parts with confidence. That saves you time and money, so visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
In this video, we're going to be working with our 2001 Ford Ranger, 4.0 liter, V6. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your blower motor resistor for the blower fan responsible for getting hot air or A/C through your vents.
If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this truck as well as many other makes and models and if you need this part for your vehicle, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com. Here are the items you'll need for this repair.
Your blower motor resistor is located at the back passenger side of the engine bay on the bottom of the heater box. While it is accessible from the top side, we already had our fender liner out and it was a lot easier to access it, so we'll show you how to do it that way. The removal process for the connector and the bolts will be the same whether you do it from above or below.
Using the taped flat blade screwdriver, locate the relief cuts in the hubcap. Stick the screwdriver in and pry out to release it from the wheel. This particular truck has a wheel lock on it, so we'll need the wheel lock key in order to remove it. Otherwise, the rest of the nuts come off with a 19 millimeter socket and breaker bar. Simply crack them loose for now. Then raise and support your vehicle and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Remove the wheel from the vehicle.
Remove this 7 millimeter bolt on the mud flap. Using a pair of side cutters, we'll reach under these plastic clips. Be careful not to cut them. Simply grab it and pry it out. Remove the remaining two 7 millimeter bolts from the bottom side of the mud flap. Move these three 5.5 millimeter screws with a socket ratchet and extension. Remove these four 8 millimeter bolts with a socket and ratchet. Remove this plastic clip at the back outer side of the fender. Work the inner wheel liner out of the fender. Remove the vacuum lines on the vacuum reservoir inside of the wheel well, and fully remove the wheel well from the inside of the car.
With the inner wheel well liner removed, the blower motor resistor is much more easily accessible here at the bottom of the heater box. Our blower motor resistor has clearly been removed before because normally there's a clip here that secures the connector onto the bottom of this resistor. It's twin is located on the top side here. Normally you would have to release both in order to be able to remove the connector. We're going to use a small flat blade screwdriver to pry up on the tab that we do still have intact. Remove the connector and using an 8mm socket and ratchet, remove the two screws on either side of this resistor.
Here we have our old blower motor resistor that we removed from our vehicle and our new part from 1AAuto.com. These parts are exactly the same, see we have the same coils here, as resistors, as well as the same resistor here. We have the same two bolt mounting locations and the same pattern where it actually sits into the heater box. Flip it over, you can see that we have the same four pin connector on each with the same blades here to lock our connector onto. If your blower motor is only working on certain higher speeds, it's likely that your blower motor resistor is to blame. This new part from 1A Auto is going to go in direct fit just like our original equipment and fix you up right.
Reinstall your blower motor resistor into the heater box. Start your two 8mm screws. We'll tighten these screws down with an 8mm socket and ratchet. Reinstall your electrical connector and you're ready to put the wheel liner back into place if you removed it for this repair.
Reinstall the wheel well liner into the car. Reinstall the four 8 millimeter screws for the socket ratchet and extension. Reinstall the three 5.5 millimeter screws. Reinstall the bottom outside edge. Place the clip into the opening at the bottom of the fender. Line up your mud flap onto the bottom of your fender, and reinstall the plastic clips: one on the side and one on the top here. Reinstall the three 7-millimeter screws.
Reinstall the wheel and tire, and start your lug nuts by hand. With the weight of your vehicle on the tires, torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a cross pattern. Line up the tabs on the inside of your hubcap to the lug nuts. Tap it back into place.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
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