How to Replace Exhaust 2005-10 Chrysler 300

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In this video, we're going to be working with our 2006 Chrysler 300, 3.5 liter V6, rear wheel drive. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your vehicle's exhaust from the exhaust manifold all the way back to the tips as one piece. Now on a stock vehicle you should be able to replace these exhaust pieces in sections, however, our vehicle has a one piece welded custom exhaust in it and for a lot of bigger jobs it's easier to just remove the entire unit as a whole. If you like this video please click "Subscribe," we have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles. If you ever need parts for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com. Here are the items you'll need for this repair.

Unplug both of your downstream O2 sensors. Te driver side connector is hanging here on the side of the transmission. Make sure it hangs freely. The passenger one connects right here at the transmission cross member. On the driver side of the exhaust there's a heat shield that we'll need to remove. There's a 13 mm on the end on each side that we'll take off with our socket, ratchet and extension. Depending on your exhaust you may need to use a universal joint.Remove the heat shield and then there's a 16 mm nut on each side that we'll remove with our 16 mm socket and ratchet. We'll repeat this step on the opposite side.

So, all the way at the back of the exhaust, we'll undo the 13 mm bolt securing this exhaust hanger bracket on each side. Now this is an aftermarket exhaust so you may just be able to slide yours out that bushing, but for these we're going to have to remove that bolt and the bracket of each side.

We'll then spray these down with some penetrating oil and remove the upper part of this stud. This side's a lot harder because of how tightly it's wrapped. Again, this is aftermarket so yours may slide out on the bottom but we'll do the top. Remove the four 13 mm nuts securing this cross member while having a friend support half the exhaust, at which point both of you can lower it down from the vehicle. These rubber hangers can be tricky to remove. However, once you get them past the head there, you should just be able to pull them off by hand. I like to use a pair of grooved jawed pliers to pop them out. They also make a special hanger tool for these that works really nicely, but most of the time, as long as you lube them up, you can pop them off with these. Sometimes you can even get them off by hand.

When removing the last nut be sure to have somebody supporting the exhaust. Remove the cross member, and then grab the front of the exhaust, pull down and back. Now where we did manage to get most of our hardware off nice and easy, one of our studs has rusted into the flange on the end of the exhaust. This isn't common but you may need to pry or wiggle the exhaust to get it to free up. Pull back, and down and remove the exhaust from the vehicle.

Now once again because I'm on the lift, I'm using some help to get the exhaust in here, but at home we'll show you the trick you can use. On Matt's end of the vehicle I have bungee cords hanging from a hole near the original exhaust hangers, so I'm going to line up the front of my exhaust and then place a screw jack under the middle. Now, at home, you could easily do this with a jack or jack stands, especially if you're doing it on the ground. All the screw jack is, is a tall jack stand that makes it easier for me to use on the lift. I'll support this end to keep it place and then to take some load off of Matt, I'll use my bungee cord in the back hole to help keep it in place. You may have to relocate some things once you get that rear hung up.

Now I can safely install the rest of my exhaust parts without needing Matt to stand there and hold parts over his head. Now we reinstall this cross brace here. Now this is not meant to support the exhaust, it is meant to catch it if something falls and also stiffen up the chassis of the vehicle a little bit. However, in this instance I'm going to use it to hang the exhaust a little. We'll get all of the 13 mm nuts started and then tighten them down. Once again, we're just making the whole exhaust safer and easier to work on.

We've lined up the front of our exhaust. Now this is a ball and socket type of joint for the exhaust, so there's actually no gasket in here. You could put some sealant in there if you wanted to, but normally they seal up pretty well. Again, our exhaust has been modified, so ours has a pair of 16 mm nuts on each side. Yours may vary. But I'll get both of those started on by hand. And for the inner sides of each you're going to need a universal joint. I like to wrap mine in tape just to make it a little bit stiffer so I have a little more control over it. We're using a long extension, a 16 mm socket, and our ratchet to tighten the exhaust down. I'm going to need to switch to a deep socket in just a second but it's easier to line up with a short one. The end of our threads are pretty rusted out there, but not the part that actually supports the exhaust. I am going to push up just to get past those bad threads and get that started a little bit better on some real threads. Then we'll tighten both sides down. We'll install the 16 mm nuts on the other side of our exhaust and tighten those down as well.

Reinstall the heat shield over the studs as well as the 13 mm nut that goes over it and tighten that down. Reconnect your oxygen sensors. The connector hangs down here on the driver side and is connected to the transmission cross member on the passenger side.

Spray a little penetrating oil into the bushing on your exhaust hanger. You should be able to just lift them, line them up and slide them right on. Remove the bungee cords if you used them to secure the other end of your exhaust. Reinstall your 13 mm bolts on your rear exhaust hangers. Fire up your vehicle to check for exhaust leaks and you're good to go

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