Created on: 2011-04-01
Check out this video to learn how you can replace the worn or squeaky front brakes on your 98-04 Dodge Intrepid.
Large C-Clamp
Torque Wrench
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
Anti-Seize Grease
10mm Socket
Ratchet
Wire Brush
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we're going to show you how to remove and reinstall the front brakes on this 2004 Dodge Intrepid. This car does not have ABS brakes, so things are a little bit different, but if you have ABS brakes this procedure in this video should be able to get you through it. The tools you'll need are a jack and jack stands; 19mm socket and ratchet or your lug wrench; 10mm socket and ratchet; a large screwdriver, or a small pry bar, or if you can't get a hold of one of those, a large C-clamp; and you'll need a torque wrench to put it back together. If you're just working with hand tools you want to loosen your lug nuts while the wheel's on the ground first, then raise up and support your vehicle. I have the benefit of air tools, so I'm going to use it. We'll fast forward through the rest of removing the wheel here, and we'll use fast forward in this video quite a bit when I'm doing monotonous tasks. Now you want to turn your wheel so you can reach your brakes easily, either by pulling it like this or using the steering wheel.
If you want to check your brakes, you can see, look in here, and you see as I kind of turn the rotor, you can see where the rotor is, and this little hole that you see here is actually the wear indicator. You can see this inside pad has plenty of life left. You can see here, this pad here has plenty of life left as well. We're not even going to change these brakes but I want to show you how to take them apart and put them back together anyways. This piston is pushed out. As your brakes wear, the piston pushes out more. You can actually reset it by sticking a large screwdriver, or a small pry bar like this, in and just prying on the brakes. That does two things for you. It pushes that piston down in there, and it also helps to get your caliper up and off easily. To remove your caliper you're going to remove two 10mm bolts, one there, and one down there. It's easily done with a small ratchet or wrench. Now your caliper comes up and off. Stop the action here for a second. You saw something drop out there. Those are the little slides and you'll see how to reinstall them later in the video. Obviously if you drop anything out you want to keep hold of it. It has the brake pads in it. The inner on, we'll just pull out like so. You probably want to have a screwdriver just to help you pry it right up and out. Hang the caliper up there like that just for now, and really easy, the rotor comes right off if you wanted to replace it or have it turned. This one, even though it's a little rusty looking, just looks like it's from sitting, it's still in good shape.
Even though we're going to put the original brakes back on, just want to show you new parts from 1A Auto. They're going to fit right on there correctly, just like the originals. Real quickly we're back to the original rotor. What I like to do is just put a lug nut on here, just to hold the disc in place while you're putting the brakes together. Before you go to put your calipers back on, you want to make sure that your piston is reset all the way into your caliper. Hopefully, if you pried it out, that's already the case, but if you didn't have something to pry it with, you can use a large C-clamp. Put your old pad back in there, and then use the C-clamp to push that piston back into your caliper. Here's my original pads, new pads from 1A Auto, the original pads still have some good life on them, so we're going to reinstall them, but you can see that the pads from 1A Auto, all the same, all the same brackets and everything. They're going to mount in there correctly. Just want to show you that so you know that when you order from 1A Auto you're going to get the right stuff. The rear pad has that clip on it. Just press it into the caliper, and then the front pad has this kind of butterfly clip on it. You just take it, and kind of pull that clip out a little bit, and then snap it down in there. You've got your pads back into your caliper, and these are the little slides. They actually just kind of hang off of here, so you put the lower one on, and you take your caliper, and make sure that ... I don't know what this is. Make sure that these boots are back on these bolts or these sleeves here.
Then what you want to do is put your pad against it, and push out on your caliper, and seat your- the shoes- or the pads- have little teeth that go right on to that slide. Then you do have to pull it out and put it down on. Then this upper slide, basically you can push your pad up like that, pull your rotor and pad back a little bit, slide underneath, and it goes in just like that. Close up on what that should look like, and then down here what it should look like. Now you take your bolts, put them in the back side, just kind of push on the caliper a little bit. Get them started, get that one started, 10mm. Torque wrench, we're going to use, and we're going to tighten these up to 25 foot-pounds. Now we can remove this lug not. We'll fast forward as I remove that lug nut, and then I'm obviously going to put the wheel and tire back up in place, and what I'm going to use is my ... I'm going to thread the lug nuts on by hand and then use my air ratchet to tighten them preliminarily. Now with the wheel on the ground, and you hawk eyes will notice that the cap was off and now that little center cap is on, that's just because I was shooting two videos at once here, but I'm going to torque the lug nuts to between 90 and 100 foot-pounds. I'm going to use a star pattern, and very important while I'm torqueing these, before you drive your vehicle, make sure you pump the brakes a bunch of times. Then make sure that the brakes hold the car while it's in gear, then do a stop from 5 miles an hour, and then a stop from 10 miles an hour, just to make sure your brakes are working, obviously, before you drive it out on the road. We hope this helps you out.
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