Created on: 2017-09-14
How to repair, install, fix, change or replace your own worn, squeaky, fading old brakes on 02, 03, 04, 05, 06 Nissan Altima.
14mm Wrench
Large C-Clamp
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
Rust Penetrant
Jack Stands
19mm Wrench
Brake Parts Cleaner
21mm Socket
Rubber Mallet
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Dead Blow Hammer
Paper Towels
Bungee Cord
Anti-Seize Grease
Ratchet
Wire Brush
Floor Jack
Cloth Rags
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Before you lift and support the vehicle, loosen the lug nuts with the wheel on the ground. Use a 21 millimeter socket and a breaker bar. Lug nuts loose can use the 21 millimeter socket with just your hand. Finish removing the lug nuts.
Remove the wheel and place it aside. Before we start to remove the brakes, I'm just going to, I've got the steering wheel unlocked, so I'm just going to move them this way by pulling on it so I can get to these bolts and the caliper bolts easier. Then I will take my caliper and sort of push on it. Try to squeeze in the piston a bit so that when I go to remove it, it comes off easier. Okay.
Use a 14 millimeter wrench to remove the pin bolts. With that one loose, remove the bottom one. Place these aside. Got a bungee cord ready so I can hang this caliper. We don't want to let it hang on the rubber hose. I'm going to work it off of the pads. Now I can hang it from our strut. Through here, go up around the spring. That will hang out of the way right there.
To remove the pads, sometimes they'll just pop right out. If they don't, you can use a flat bladed screwdriver, just pry them out of the carrier. Using a 19 millimeter box wrench, break these free. They're pretty tight. You can use a dead blow or a rubber mallet to hit the wrench. With the bottom one loose, now we're working the top one. These are just finger tight, so I’m going to thread them out. Okay, hold that aside. Hold onto the caliper, because as soon as you undo this top one.
Hold onto the caliper bracket, as soon as you undo this top one it's going to be loose. Pull that off and place this aside. Spray some rust penetrant around the hub, between the hub and the rotor. Give it a wiggle, see if it comes right off. That's on there pretty good. Going to take one of our lug nuts, place it on here so the rotor doesn't fall off. We're going to whack it with our dead blow. This will do it, okay. The reason why I put the lug nut on there was so it didn't fall off when I hit it.
Here's our old brakes for our vehicle, and here's our brand new ones from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, they are same bolt pattern, same size rotor, and they're both ventilated rotors. Pads are the same exact style and design. Got your anti-squeal shims on the back, your wear indicators on both of them. These brakes will fit great and help you stop when you're going down the road.
If this hub is really rusty, take a wire brush and knock some of the rust off. This way the rotor goes on nice and evenly. Just going to spray this down with some brake parts cleaner to get rid of the penetrating oil I sprayed on there earlier. New rotor comes coated in a rust protectant oil. You want to clean that off before you install it, so I'm going to put it on backwards, that way it's held. Take my brake parts cleaner and clean it off. Take a rag, wipe off any excess. Grab it by the edges and flip it over.
Since this rotor doesn't have any screws to hold it in place, you can put a lug nut on here to keep it from falling off. Take some more brake parts cleaner and clean off this face of the rotor. Push it right up against the hub. Now remove the stainless steel brake caliper clips. Pop them out with a flat bladed screwdriver. Clean where they sit in the caliper bracket with a wire brush. Spray with some brake parts cleaner. At this point, it's a good time to check your slide pins. These move nice and freely. Same thing with the other side. Clean our stainless steel caliper clips with the brake parts cleaner and the wire brush. Wipe them off with a rag. Repeat this for the other side.
Reinstall the caliper bracket. The torque on these bolts is 101 foot-pounds to 129 foot-pounds, so I've got my torque wrench set to 115. Install our pads. Make sure you haven't touched these and gotten them greasy. These look pretty clean, but if you do get them dirty and greasy, you can take some brake parts cleaner and just spray them down. Use some caliper guide grease, and put it on the little ears of the pad here. Don't need a whole lot.
This is going to be our inside pad, kind of sit in. It will just slide in like this. Go this way, whichever way it goes in easier. Same thing for the outside pad. In this car, the pads are identical, so there is no inside/outside. Got a large C-clamp set up to compress this caliper piston back into the caliper. I've taken our old brake pad to use as a thing to push against. This way, try not to damage the caliper piston. I'm just going to turn it in slowly and tighten it, and the caliper piston will compress. Right there is good. Take it off. Done with that, put it aside.
Unhook our caliper from the bungee cord. I'll get that in a second. Slide our caliper back over. There are key ways in these slide bolts. There’s flat sides and curved slides on both of them. The flat side will fit against the flat side of the caliper right here, same on the top. Keeps the slide pins from spinning while we try to tighten them. Install the bolts. Don't forget your bungee cord. We're all done with that, we can put it away.
Torque on the caliper slide pin bolts is 16 to 23, we're going to torque them to 20. Brakes are installed.
We'll reinstall our wheel, and we'll torque the lug nuts. Just going to use the socket to get these lug nuts as tight as you can by hand, and torque the wheel afterwards once it's on the ground. Torque on the lug nuts is 73 to 86. I've torqued these to 80 in a cross pattern. The job is complete.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry
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