How to Replace Front Grille 2005-10 Chrysler 300

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In this video, we're going to be working with our 2006 Chrysler 300. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your vehicle's front grille in the bumper cover or fascia. Now, our bumper has been swapped onto this car from a Chrysler 300C where ours is a Chrysler 300M, but the procedure will be very similar, if not exactly the same. If you like this video, please click Subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles, and if you ever need parts for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com. Here are the items you'll need for this repair.

Remove the three push pin connectors on the inside of each wheel well at the bumper. We've removed the wheel to make it easier to show you what's going on, but this can definitely be done with the wheel still attached to the vehicle. We're going to use our trim tool from 1A Auto and pry up the center portion of the tab, then get behind the base of it and pop it out. Now our vehicle has been modified. This isn't the bumper that belongs on it, and it was also lowered substantially, so our wheel wells are in pretty rough shape. We have a lot of pins missing along with our belly pan.

Using a 10mm socket ratchet and extension, remove the 10mm bolts securing the corner of the bumper to the fender. Normally there would be an air dam or belly pan located here at the bottom of the bumper reaching back under the motor, however, our vehicle was lowered substantially, and this pan has either been ripped off or removed. The fasteners go along the front of the bumper, and then there are a couple of – it looks like the used to be 10mm that secure it to the sub-frames as well as some of those push pin type connectors we showed you earlier in the wheel wells.

Now, this isn't the original bumper for this vehicle. No one hooked up the side markers when it was installed, so you'll want to disconnect those. There will be this little connector over here under your side marker. You'll also want to disconnect the connector on your fog lights if your vehicle is equipped. Simply lift up on these two tabs, and then pull back.

Using a trim tool, we'll remove the same four push pin style connectors that we found in our wheel well, only these go along the top of the bumper. If you're performing this procedure on a Magnum which is the station wagon, there will be six of these where Chargers have eight. You can now pull the bumper straight out and off of the vehicle.

The grille on our Chrysler is broken in quite a few places. It's cracking on the side and a lot of the hardware's torn out of it, so it's really loose. Fortunately, now that we've got our bumper off, the grille is very easy to change. Simply lay it down carefully on the front so we don't scratch up the bumper. Using a Phillips-head screwdriver, we'll remove all of our hardware around the edges. There are 10 Phillips head screws. Now, there's really not a lot of tension on these, so if the piece that your screw is going into is broken, as a lot of ours are, just put your finger on there to keep it steady while you remove your hardware.

Now, we'll push down on the tabs securing the edges of the grille into the bumper. There are four of them, one on each corner, and your grille is out of your bumper.

Place your grille back underneath the bumper. You want to line up these four tabs in each corner with their slots. Now, these can be a little tricky. You want to start at the top and roll the grille into position. Don't worry if those tabs don't quite lock in yet because we're going to start our top row of screws to keep the grill in place. Once the top is locked in, should be a little easier to line up our bottom tabs. Finish installing the rest of our screws. Now, the bumper is flexible, so don't be afraid if you have to tweak it a little bit to get it to sit properly. Once that grille is in, it'll stiffen it up and everything will line up nicely and it'll look even better once it's bolted onto our car. Once all your screws are tight and even, your grille should sit nicely.

Set your bumper back on. Watch out for the headlights and the fenders. Align the top holes where these plastic pins came out, and we're just going to install them for now. Don't push the actual tab down. We're just doing this to keep it in place while we line up our sides.

On either side of your bumper you'll notice you have these slotted tabs and then this opening for your bolt. These slots are going to line up to those little rounded tabs you can see on the bottom of your fender, so slide them in. Snap them on. Once you have both of the corners of your bumper set into place, go ahead and push down the middle of your plastic retaining pins to secure the top of the bumper. Re-install your 10mm bolt in the top corner of each fender. Tighten that down with your 10mm socket and ratchet. Now there is a little bit of give to these, so if you're not happy with where the corner of your bumper's lined up, you can push it into place and hold it there while you finish tightening your bolt. Install the plastic pins in your fender liner. You should have three on each side. We're missing some, so I'm going to put two on each. Once your retainers are locked in, repeat these steps on the opposite side. Reconnect the fog light connectors on both sides, and reconnect with the side markers. Again, ours aren't actually connected to anything. We're going to have to fix that later, but yours should just plug right back in, and you’ll have to close that red safety tab. After that, you'll re-install the belly pan or air dam which is missing from our vehicle. Yours should have these screws all the way along the front as well as four in the sub frame, and the three plastic pins in each wheel well.

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