How to Replace Front Wheel Bearing 1995-2011 Ford Ranger 2WD PART 2

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This is part two of the two part series replacing the front wheel bearings on this '96 Ford Ranger with two wheel drive. As I said in the first one, this procedure is generally the same for most vehicles that have the roller bearings in the front. Another quick look at the tools you'll need. The sizes on this list are for the Ranger and so if you're using this video to guide you in a different type of vehicle, then probably some of the sizes, as far as the sockets and things, will be different.

In part one of this video we took care of removing the brakes and the rotor and we also had removed the races, the rear seal on the races and now we're going to pick up with reassembling the rotors and reinstalling everything. Now, we're going to clear this grease. So, I'm going to take our new bearing race, and the thicker end goes inside. This socket was just a tiny bit smaller than the race itself. Then put down there, this size is a little lower so when I first tap it, I'm going to tap it and get that side started. Just kind of check, and make sure it's going down there pretty cleanly. That's nice and solid. Just give it a couple of taps and make sure it's in there correctly. Make sure the line all the way around is nice and even and it's in there all the way. Take a nice clean paper towel, put it in, then wipe this out. You don't have to get every little speck of grease. Just make sure there's no dirt or anything in there. Then, the thicker side goes down in at first. I do have the proper bearing installation tool, the race installing tool. What you can see me do here is, I put the race down in there. I'm just giving it a couple of taps. I just want to make sure that it's going in nice and straight. Then once I'm confident that it's going in properly. I hit it harder and you do need some type of metal tool that's slightly smaller than the bearing race. You cannot do this with a wood block or anything like that but a very large socket would work just like on the front side. As I said I do happen to have the correct tools to put that in. Even after inspecting it and being confident that it's in, I'll give it a couple of more good taps to make sure.

Now take some good quality bearing grease and put it right in. You don't want to get too much on the race surface. We'll put it kind of in the middle of hub and kind of clear off the race surface with my finger. Now, for the bearing, I'll just take it, scrape it off into this channel here, and press it in. The same thing with the front side, press it in to that crack. Get it on the roller surfaces, again, not a ton here. You don't want it all thick and globby. You just kind of want to coat them, okay and then the same thing on its inside surface. Take any out that's extra. I'll just leave a film. So you can see here on the race surface itself, I'm just leaving a film. Okay, and then just drop the bearing in and again make sure on the inside of this surface, basically just a film as well. You may want to put your seal in. Put that down. Put a piece of paper towel over it, so no dirt gets down there. Then a piece of wood or something will do the same trick. There you go. Let's turn this back over. Take some grease and pack it in on the inside here. Then put a film again, just a film on the bearing race there.

So, we've got our outer bearing, with grease in the crevices. Then coated the roller bearing side Put our rotor over on. Insert the bearing. If you like, put a little bit of grease, stuff it in there again, over all and again pull out the excess. Put our washer on. Put that right back on. Now, what we're going to do, is we're going to tighten it. We're going to roll the rotor a little bit, and keep tightening it until it's pretty well seated. Just make sure that you kind of squish the grease out of the way and the bearing is going to get a good seat. Now, we're going to back it off, and then we're going to pull it probably to about 3 or 4 foot-pounds, not very tight at all. You may want to put this back on with our cotter pin down through.

Use a nice clean paper towel first. Make sure the front and back surfaces of the rotors are clear of grease. Now, use some minerals spirits or brake parts cleaner and really clean the rotor surface. Make sure there's no grease at all.

On this bracket, you want to make sure these are nice and free. If they're not, you can actually just pull them out, clean them and grease them and put them back in. We'll just speed up here as we put that bracket back on and use a two larger 15 millimeter bolts to start it. Tighten these bolts to 80 foot-pounds. Now, you want to push these pistons back into the caliper so take your old pad and just kind of throw in there like that. Use a large C-clamp. The pad takes care of making sure the pressure is on both of the pistons pushing them back in as far as they'll go. So, again, our pads are in fine shape so we'll put the old ones back in, something like that. Bring your caliper down. Now to push in on your slide bolts here with the caliper placed, get your bolts and twist and slide a little bit. Get your bolts started. These bolts don't have to be too tight. They really just hold things in place. The correct torque is probably about 12 to 15 foot pounds. I'm just going to tighten them firm with the smaller wrench.

Put the tire back on. I'm going to thread the lug nuts on by hand just to make sure that they don't cross thread. Then I'm going to tighten them preliminarily with my impact wrench. The tire is on and preliminarily tightened. You want to just take it and kind of shake it and look for any play in that bearing at all. You shouldn't see any. If you see a little play, then you'll want to tighten up your nut a little more. It looks good there. Just put our dust cap back in place. Now, we're going to torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds, each, and then we'll put our center cap back on. Before road testing, make sure your brakes are working properly. Pump them up a bunch a of times to reset the pistons in the calipers and then do test stops from 5 miles an hour and 10 miles an hour before your road test.

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How to Replace Front Wheel Bearing 1995-2011 Ford Ranger 2WD PART 2

step 1 :Begining the Repair

step 2 :Installing the Bearing

step 3 :Reinstalling the Brake Rotor

step 4 :Reinstalling the Brake Pads

step 5 :Reattaching the Wheel

step 6 :Testing the Brakes

Tools needed

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How to Replace Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly 1999-2005 Pontiac Grand Am

How to Replace Front Wheel Bearing 1995-2011 Ford Ranger 2WD PART 2

step 1 :Begining the Repair 0:05

step 2 :Installing the Bearing 0:35

step 3 :Reinstalling the Brake Rotor 7:05

step 4 :Reinstalling the Brake Pads 10:34

step 5 :Reattaching the Wheel 12:34

step 6 :Testing the Brakes 13:33

Tools needed

Shop Products

Ford Mazda Mercury Front Driver & Passenger Side 6 Piece Wheel Bearing & Seal Kit DIY Solutions HUB00783

Part Details:

How to Replace Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly 1999-2005 Pontiac Grand Am

step 1 :Begining the Repair

step 2 :Installing the Bearing

step 3 :Reinstalling the Brake Rotor

step 4 :Reinstalling the Brake Pads

step 5 :Reattaching the Wheel

step 6 :Testing the Brakes