How to Replace Front Wheel Bearing and Hub 2006-08 Dodge RAM

Okay, friends. One of the first things we need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle so that the suspension is hanging. The best way to do that is right underneath the frame. Once you've done that, remove all five lug nuts and remove the wheel. Now I'm going to take a nice pry bar, and I'm going to come in between the caliber and the rotor itself and just try to push in the pistons a tiny bit. Perfect.

Now we're going to take the caliber off. We want to make sure we don't put a tug on our flex hose when the knuckle comes down. It's good to have something hanging off the frame so you can hang the caliber once it's off. There we are. Go ahead and set that so it's going to be safe.

Let's get the rotor off of here. So we're going to take off our tire rod and nut here. So just go ahead and bend out that little clip. Remove the nut. I like to leave it on a couple threads. Now we're going to bonk right along here to separate the tire rod from the knuckle. Set this up here.

Now let's go ahead and take off our axle nut using a 36-millimeter socket. Now you just want to make sure the axle can move in and out of the wheel bearing. If it can't, you can, of course, put the nut back on a few good threads. Give it a couple of loving bonks until it does.

Now looking at the backside of the knuckle, along where the axle connects into it, you're going to see three mounting bolts for the wheel bearing itself. There's one here, one on top, and then one towards the front. Remove all three. There's one. Okay. Let's go ahead and pull those bolts out. There we are. Now we can come up here and grab this bearing. There it is, friends.

Now that the bearing is off, there's something that we need to pay attention to, and that's all the corrosion that's along the area right here. You need to scrape that off. You don't want anything left on there. Using a scraper, or a chisel, or whatever you have, maybe even a nice brush, get inside there, and that's going to be great. Clean it down. The copper Never-Seez.

Now let's go ahead and get our new wheel bearing up onto here. Okay. Start in all three bolts. I like to use a tiny bit of red Threadlocker. Now that we have all three of them started in, let's go ahead and snug them up. Let's go ahead and torque these bolts to 122-foot pounds. Let's get the tire rod stud back in here. Put on our nut. Snug it up. Let's go ahead and torque this to 45-foot pounds. Once again, we need to continue on to make sure that it's lined up. It looks like it could go a little further. Put a cotter pin in there. Make sure you peen it over. Make sure you clean up the backside of your rotor where the mating surface is. Let's apply a little bit of copper Never-Seez on the bearing. Go ahead and put your rotor up on there. And we're going to grab the caliber, start it on there as well. Use a little red Threadlocker if you're not going to be replacing your nut, but it is recommended to replace the nut. Now we're going to need to torque down the nut. To do that, you can either put the wheel on without the center cover and then torque the nut, or you can just use a nice, long bar, come across the studs like this, lock it in, and torque it. Now let's torque it to 185.

Let's go ahead and start the caliper on there. There we are. Start in both of your bolts. It's a good idea to use a little bit of Threadlocker on these. Okay, let's bottom these out. Now let's torque these to 138-foot pounds.

Now it's going to be time to get the wheel up on here. We're going to snug up the lug nuts, and we'll torque it to 130-foot pounds. Torqued. We're just going to go ahead and pump up that brake pedal. That feels good.

Okay. So now, at this point, what you want to do is take it for a road test, and of course, get it down to your local alignment shop.