How to Replace Front Wheel Hub Bearing 2000-06 Chevy Tahoe

I'm gonna use a 22-millimeter socket, take off the lug nuts so we can remove the wheel. Now remove the wheel. I'm going to take these two caliper slide bolts out. I'm going to use an 18-millimeter socket. Get those free first. And slide those out. Now I'll take a screwdriver. I'm just going to pry the pistons of the caliper in a little bit. Just go in between the caliper and the rotor. Make it easier to take the caliper off. Now you can take a brake caliper hanger and support the brake caliper itself. Just hook it on the upper control arm or fold the caliper over and just set it so that it doesn't fall. Just make sure there's no tension on the brake hose. Now we can take the brake pads off. Just use a straight blade screwdriver. Just pry them off. Now we want to take the caliper bracket off. We're going to take these two bolts out. I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter socket. Loosen those up. Take those bolts out and slide the bracket off.

Take the rotor off. If your rotor is stuck on there, you can take a hammer and just hit in these areas. Just be careful of not hitting the studs. Slide it off. Now I'm going to take the ABS sensor off or the wheel speed sensor off. Disconnect the wire. This one has wire ties on it holding it on, but normally you just pop it out of the bracket right here. Right there. You can just slide under this retainer and slide it out. And then same with this. Where the connector is disconnect the connector, and just slide it out of the way.

Now we'll take the axle nut off, use a 36-millimeter socket. And take this washer off. You can use a magnet. And can just take a hammer, just give the axle a tap. Just make sure it's loose. You don't want to hit it too hard. You don't want to mushroom the end over because then you won't be able to get the nut on after, or you could always use a punch and tap it with a punch. Now there's three bolts on the backside of the knuckle. Take those three bolts out. Use a 15-millimeter socket. Just be careful of the CV boot. You don't want to rip the CV boot. At least get those loose. They may not come out because of the CV boot, but you could push the axle back and get them out. Now you can slide those bolts out or just leave them in there, either way.

Normally, you'll have a dust shield here. So keep that in mind. This vehicle doesn't have one but I'm going to take the hub off. Just use a hammer and just give it a tap on the backside. Try to get it separate from the knuckle. You just go back and forth. And slide it off. And if you had that shield, you'd have to slide the ABS sensor off the shield and reuse the shield when you put it back together. You can use a wire brush to clean this up a little bit and then just use a little bit of copper anti-seize just around here and just so it doesn't seize up. So if in the future you ever have to take off the hub again. All right. At this point, you would take that shield and run the ABS wire through the shield or wheel speed sensor wire, and then slide this in position. And put these bolts back in.

And now I'm going to torque all 3 of these bolts to 133 foot-pounds. Now take the wheel speed sensor wire and put it through that bracket. Slide under the brake hose and attach this to the upper control arm right there. And then this one is going to go right here. Push that through and connect the connector and then push the connector in on top. And take the washer, put the washer back on, put the nut on. Now I'm going to lower the vehicle down to the ground a little bit and use a pry bar to keep the hub from spinning. And I'm going to torque the nut to 177 foot-pounds. Just take a little anti-seize and just wipe it on the hub surface. Just a nice thin coat.

Now install the rotor. If you want to, you can put a lug nut on to hold the rotor on. Makes installing it a little bit easier. Keeps the rotor in place. And just slide the caliper bracket over the rotor. Take the bolts. You can put some thread lock adhesive on them. Now we're going to torque these bolts to 129 foot-pounds. Now I'm going to take the brake pads, put the brake pads on. Now, the warning indicator for the inboard pad, the one that goes on the inside, is going to be at the bottom. There's only one. There's nothing on the top. The one that goes in the outside has both squealers or warning indicators. Slide those in position.

Now I need to compress the pistons back into the caliper. You can use a piston compressing tool. They make different types of tools. This is a ratchet type. As I tighten this up, it's going to push the piston back into the caliper, which is going to push the brake fluid through the hoses, through the lines, and back up into the master cylinder. Just go nice and slow. You don't want to rush this. The slower, the better. Those pistons are compressed. Now slide the caliper over the brake pads. Now you can take the two brake caliper bolts. Clean them off with some brake parts cleaner. Wipe them off. These aren't too bad. And just take some brake caliper grease, put it on the guide pins. Now install the caliper bolts or guide pins. And torque those to 80 foot-pounds.

Now you can take this lug nut off and put the wheel back up. Now put the tire back on. And the lug nuts. Now I'm going to torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a star pattern or a cross pattern so that it tightens the wheel down evenly.

And just go around again. Double-check. Now, after you're done, you want to make sure you pump up the brake pedal nice and slow. There's going to be an air gap between the caliper piston and the brake pads. So just do that until that feels pretty good. And then double-check your brake fluid level and adjust accordingly.