How to Replace Intake Manifold Gaskets 1996-99 GMC K1500 5-7L

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In this video, we're going to be working with our 1996 GMC Sierra K1500. We're going to show you how to remove the intake manifold on a 5.7-liter V8. This is the entire manifold from the lower up as one piece.

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Here are the items you'll need for this repair: full metric socket set, ratchet, socket extensions, full metric wrench set, torque wrench, flat head screwdriver: sm; mid; lg, 16mm flare wrench, power steering pulley puller, T20 torx socket, e8 inverted Torx socket, pliers, groove jaw pliers, locking pliers, pry bar, drain bucket, razor blades, wire brush, brake cleaner, brake grease, rust penetrant, rec scouring pads, paper towels, zip ties, bungee cords, painters tape, marker, flashlight, gloves, safety glasses

Remove the negative post from your battery using a 5/16 or an 8mm wrench. Be very careful; this wrench isn't long enough, but if you have a longer one, you may be able to hit the positive battery terminal with it. You want to be very careful you don't do that. Remove the terminal and isolate it from the battery. That will give us a little more access to the other side.

We'll undo the thumbscrew on top of the throttle body. Pop that off, disconnect the breather hose, undo the mass airflow and intake air temp sensors, and where we're going to be disconnecting so many wires here. I went ahead and labeled all of them with painter's tape. You can choose to do that or take pictures. There's a variety of ways to do it.

Undo the latches on the air box, lift it up, remove your air filter and take the entire intake setup off the truck.

You'll need to disconnect the positive side of the battery. We removed it entirely, so we had some more room to show you guys what was going on. Pull the harness coming from the battery and over to the ECU, out of the top of the fan shroud. Just move it off to the side for now.

We'll then remove the three 10mm bolts along the top of the fan shroud. We'll then use a 10mm socket, ratchet and a long extension to get. It looks like there were two 10-mm bolts on each side. However, we've only got one so remove one from each side of our fan shroud. You can then remove the upper radiator shroud from the vehicle.

Use a 3/8" drive breaker bar or ratchet to release the tension from the tensioner and remove your serpentine belt.

Remove your radiator cap by pushing down and turning it counterclockwise. If you look down below your upper radiator hose, you'll see the drain plug for the radiator. We're going to reach down there and we have our drip pan underneath the truck. We're going to reach down and unscrew that. Using a pair of pliers or groove jaws like we have here, collapse the clamps on the upper radiator hose then remove the hose from the radiator. We'll then do the same thing on the thermostat housing side of the hose. You can now remove the upper radiator hose from the vehicle.

Remove the throttle cables by flipping the lever out. Pop the plastic one out of its clip, and then pull the cable for the main throttle cable around until it sits into the notch. You slide the cable and out. Use a pair of pliers to collapse the tabs on the throttle cable retainers, and pull them through their bracket. Push down on the tabs on the bottom side of the throttle cable bracket. Pop the retainer out for the cruise control cable. Then use your flat blade screwdriver to pop the clamp open for the main throttle cable, and lay both of these out of the way. Remove the connector on the back of the A/C compressor. Use a flat blade screwdriver to pop the retainer open, then lay it over the compressor. We'll also disconnect the switch on the back. We'll use a small flat blade to pry off the ears on the A/C compressor clutch connector, just let all that hang out of the way for now. Pop out the A/C compressor line on the passenger side of the engine, pushing the tabs down and pulling it out of the retainer. Then remove the four 13mm bolts on the top of the A/C compressor. We'll then lift the A/C compressor off its bracket and carefully place it in the passenger side of the engine bay.

Remove the 10mm bolt on the back of the alternator. We'll then remove the two 13mm on the front. Pry the alternator up and out of its housing and remove the connector. Pull back the boot and remove the 13mm nut on the power stud. Remove the alternator from the vehicle.

Remove the 10mm bolt right above the idler pulley. This secures the outlet hose on the water pump to this accessory bracket, which we're going to remove. Just so we don't lose this bolt, we'll move the hose out of the way. You can release it from the retainer if you have to, and just throw that 10mm back in there a couple of threads so we don't lose it. Use the 13mm socket and ratchet to remove the center bolt from the tensioner. Remove the tensioner from the vehicle.

Pry open the retainer for the alternator power wire. Pull that out of the way. We'll then use our screwdriver to release this radiator hose as well. This is the one for the heater cord that goes to the top of the intake manifold. Remove the two 15mm bolts, as well as the 15mm nut securing the alternator bracket to the front of the engine. We'll do this with a 15mm socket ratchet and extension. Remove the accessory bracket from the vehicle. Pinch together the two plastic tabs on the heater hose, wiggle them out of their holder. Lay that hose off to the side. Remove the clamp on the water pump to heater hose. Remove the hard pipe way. Lay that off to the side as well.

Remove the 15mm nut, securing the grounds to the top of the thermostat housing. Remove the grounds. Put that nut back on finger tight just we don't lose it later. We'll then lift up on the tab and disconnect the cooling temp sensor and the EGR. Pry out the retainer for the harness. We'll then disconnect the throttle position sensor, as well as the idle air control valve connector. We'll let that whole harness hang out of the way.

Underneath the vehicle, you'll find the crank position sensor behind the harmonic balancer; disconnect that. Move the harness up and out of the way. Use a 14mm wrench to loosen this nut behind the bottom water pump hose for the lower radiator. There's a ground strap on here that we'll need to remove in order to get this harness up and out of our way. Slide the ground off of the stud then we'll just throw that nut on their a couple of threads to hold it in place then have retainer right here that we'll need to pop open with our flat blade screwdriver; another retainer here. Disconnect vacuum solenoid connection here as well as the one behind it. It's a little tricky to see under the harness, but you'll also need to remove your map sensor connector and release this section of the harness. Lift up on the white safety tab and use a small flat blade screwdriver to pry out the ears. Carefully lift up on the connector and remove it from the top of the manifold.

Open up the harness retainer on the passenger side valve cover. If we have enough stuff disconnected here, we also have one over here on the driver side. You also have to disconnect the connector over on the driver cylinder head here. We should have enough slack to lay our harness to the back of the engine. We're not ready to do just yet.

Remove the spark plug wires from the spark plugs. Don't worry about where these go right now, because the distributor is marked with the positions of all the plug wires showing. We'll show you the firing order when be put it back together. Be sure to open up all the wire looms and release the plug wires from them. We'll repeat these steps on the opposite side. Disconnect the plug wire from the ignition coil as well.

Remove the two T20 Torx screws: one here and one on the back side of the distributor. We'll do this using a T20 Torx spit, a ratchet and a socket extension. Now these are now captured, so what I like to do is loosen them up pretty much all the way, and then lift up on the distributor cap and bring that out nice and smooth and level so we're careful not to loose those screws.

Remove the two T20 Torx screws one here and one on the backside of the distributor. We'll do this using a T20 Torx bit, a ratchet, and an extension. These are not captured, so what I like to do is loosen them up pretty much all the way and then lift up on the distributor cap and bring that out nice and smooth and level so we're careful not to lose those screws. Before moving your distributor, be sure that the engine is at top dead center compression.

This means that the vehicle's distributor will be in the correct timing placement, so when we align the timing marks and reinstall it later. It will go and hassle-free. This is a very important part of the engine's timing, which will allow us to set our distributor in the correct place. It's a good time to show you what TDC is and why we use it. On the driver side of the timing cover, there's this little ear with a notch on it. We use a 16mm socket and ratchet on the center bolt of the crank pulley to rotate it, and this is a bit more difficult with the engine assembled because you'll have compression you need to deal with.

We'll rotate it clockwise only, nice and smooth and slow. You'll see a notch on the crank pulley. This notch right there tells us that our piston is at top dead center. This means that the number one piston is at its highest point in the cylinder bar and you can see that this is actually almost flushed with the deck of the block at this point. The other important part is that we're going to want that on top dead center compression.

Now, if the engine was together right in those last few degrees before I got that line marked up with a crank, it would get really tight because of the compression in the motor. If you don't feel that compression when rotating it, it means cylinder number one is in its intake stroke which is not what we're after for timing. However, where there is no compression due to the head being off right now, another easy way to check is both our lifters are down can see what one looks like when it's up here. These are what open the valves. These are part of what open the valves in the vehicle. If they're both down, both our valves are closed.

Our piston would be at the top of the bar and our engine would be in its compression stroke on cylinder number one. Using a 13mm wrench, loosen the bolt on the distributor hold down plate which is below the distributor on the passenger side of the motor. Now they do make special distributor wrenches for this, which are nice to have, but you can get by with a regular wrench. It's just a little more time consuming. Remove the hold down bracket from the distributor. Disconnect the electrical connector on the back of your distributor and carefully wiggle assembly up and out of the back of the engine.

Remove the cap on the Schrader valve on your fuel rail. We'll then put some paper towels around it, and use a flat blade screwdriver to press the top pin. Be sure to wear safety glasses and stay out of the way of this, because they tend to bleed off a little bit of pressure. Using a pair of pliers, compress the clip on the vacuum hose for the brake booster and remove it from the bracket. It helps to twist this to free them up. Pull it out, and lay it off to the side. Using a 16mm flare nut wrench, loosen the fuel fittings on the back of fuel lines. These are down behind the intake on the driver side. Move the two 10mm nuts securing the ignition coil and control module bracket to the top of the engine. We'll do this using a 10mm socket ratchet and extension. Lift up on the bracket and move it around the module and the coil. Be careful of any other sensors in the area. Now, lay the whole engine harness up on the back of the engine, which is going to make this whole process a lot easier for us. We'll now remove the two 10mm nuts on the studs just below the two we just removed. You can then remove the ignition coil and module as well as the bracket from the engine.

Using a 22mm wrench, loosen the EGR tube nut going into the intake at the driver side front of the lower intake manifold. Pop the connector out of its retainer. Lay that off to the side. Disconnect the breather hose on the intake coming from the driver side valve cover and lay that off to the side. Using a 13mm socket, ratchet, and socket extension, remove the hold down on the EGR tube at the back driver side of the intake manifold. Remove the 14mm nut and two 14mm bolts in the power steering pump bracket.

We'll do this with a 14mm socket and ratchet. To remove the power steering pump pulley, you'll need a power steering pump pulley puller tool, which we have here. It's actually a few separate pieces. We'll show you how they go together and how to remove the pulley with them. The fan on this truck is staggered so the blades are not equidistant from each other. The largest gap is here, so we'll rotate that in front of our power steering pump pulley so it doesn't interfere.

Install the shaft of the puller into the whole in the center of the power steering pump pulley. Get that down as far as you can and then loosen the nut here. Make sure that it's still on the threads even when it's bottomed out. We'll then take these two half-moon style clamps, and place the wider end around the pulley with the skinnier end around our puller and this sleeve will go over them and hold them together.

You can now turn the center and hold the nut or vice versa until that walks into place. We'll use a 21mm wrench to hold the nut and a 17mm to drive the shaft, in which will pull the nut with our clamp and sleeve on it out, bringing the pulley off of the shaft. Ours is really pressed on there tight, so we're using a ratchet and a socket just to get a little more leverage on it. It will eventually pop off, and we can remove all of this from our vehicle.

Using a 13mm socket and ratchet, remove the remaining bolts from the power steering pump bracket. Ours was covered in some grease so we didn't see it at first. At the bottom inside corner of the power steering pump bracket, there is a 14-mm bolt that will need to remove. Remove the bolt, release this hose clamp at the top with a flat blade screwdriver. Remove the power steering pump bracket.

Remove the eight bolts around the perimeter of the lower intake manifold; there are two in each corner with a 13 mm socket and ratchet and an extension is necessary. Using a pair of pliers, collapse the clamp on the thermostat hose going into the water pump; you can do this on either end. It's just that our other one looks pretty rusty so we're to leave that along for now. Slide the clamp off, wiggle the hose to free it up, and then pop it off. Remove the four 10mm bolts on each valve cover with the 10mm socket, ratchet, and extension. Remove the valve cover.

Be sure to mark which is left and which is right as they are different. Repeat these steps on the opposite side. Remove this valve cover as well. Don't forget to remove the vacuum hose before removing your intake manifold. Once the valve covers are off, you can lift up and remove your intake manifold. Lay your intake manifold over. We've actually just removed ours from the parts washer which is why it's a little wet right now.

What we're going to do is remove the old gasket material as well as the gasket sealer along the valley portion of the intake manifold. Then we're going to scrape it all down clean with a razor blade. Now we'll wipe down the gasket surfaces with some solvent. Make sure all the dirt and oil and residue is removed from it. Use a razor blade to scrape any residue off the flat portions in the engine valley here at both the front and the rear.

This here should be there, so just pick those out real quick. Once everything is removed, spray some solvent on a clean paper towel and wipe down both surfaces. Make sure they are free and clean of oil and debris, as we're going to need to use some gasket maker here. Just have a little piece of tape left over from painting our heads that we're going to want to remove. We'll now install our intake manifold gaskets. Make sure they align, and there are two locking pins underneath that will snap into the head and keep that gasket in place. Put some gasket maker into the valley corners here. You'll want to get the corner under the intake gasket and then run it right along. You want to go too thick. Just like that should be fine.

We'll do the same thing in the rear, and this stuff is time sensitive, so make sure your intake manifold is ready to go on. Then set your intake manifold back into place. Ensure that your gaskets are aligned and reinstall the eight bolts, each in each corner of the lower intake manifold. Remember to leave the bolt out for the EGR tube hold down on the back driver side and then tighten down the seven 13mm bolts with a socket, ratchet, and socket extension.

Kind of like our head gasket, we'll want to go from front to back, crossover a little bit, and we tighten down our hardware here to make sure that it doesn't pinch in one corner so that all four sides seal evenly. Tighten the bolts three steps using the sequence shown. The first sequence is the 71 inch-pounds, the second at 106 inch-pounds and the final sequence will torque these bolts to 11 foot-pounds.

Install your new valve cover gasket. It's just have to be stretched in there a little bit. Reinstall your valve cover. Start your four 10mm bolts. We'll do the same thing on the opposite side. Reinstall the other valve cover the same way. We'll reinstall those four 10mm screws as well by hand and then we'll tighten all eight, four on each side with our 10mm socket and ratchet, which will then tighten and torque to 106 inch-pounds.

Realign your EGR tube. You'll need a 22mm wrench to get it started. Line up the bracket for the EGR tube once the valve cover is on and the front is in place. Reinstall the 13mm hold down bolt with a 13mm socket, ratchet, and socket extension. Reattach the fuel lines at the rear of the intake manifold.

Using a 16mm flare wrench, tighten down the fittings on the fuel lines. Using a T20 Torx socket, ratchet, and extension, remove the two T20 Torx screws from your new distributor cap if it came as one piece. Now these are now captured, so you want to be very careful not to loose them. Once those screws are loose, remove your cap.

Then, using a T10 Torx either screwdriver or bit, remove the two Torx screws in the center of the rotor. Once again, these are not captured so be very careful not to loose these. Remove your rotor from the distributor.

Once we've removed the cap and rotor from our new distributor, the correct way to align one of these, we'll line up the eight in this window with the notch and the housing. This will also leave the side of this window lined up with the edge of the cam sensor there. We'll then set it so that this is just about flushed to the back of the engine, move it a little way one way or the other.

Drop it in, line up our tab, and start our bolt a few threads by hand to keep it in place until we start our engine and fine tune it. Set the distributor in with the flat portion of the housing facing the front of the engine. If your timing marks are correct, it should drop right into place. Start the 13mm bolt into the hold down on your distributor. Then we're going to put this down snug, but not fully tight just yet because we want to make sure the truck runs and runs right.

We'll now install the rotor onto the distributor and tighten down the two T20 Torx screws. Now, when you're in time, that tab should be facing roughly towards cylinder one, which is going to be the driver's front and it is now. Now what we're doing here is just a rough timing or base timing, so this should be enough to get the vehicle running.

However, with these distributors, you do need a scan tool in order to get them dialed in perfectly. Plug in the cam position sensor on the back of the distributor now, as it's going to be a lot harder to get out once we put the cap on. Reinstall the distributor cap. Then tighten down your two T20 Torx screws for the T20 Torx spit, ratchet and extension or a torque screwdriver, whichever you prefer. Just don't put these down too tight, because they're only going into plastic, and these are notorious for breaking.

If you did what we did and threaded the bolts back into the intake just so you wouldn't loose them, you're going to want these two studs. These are in the actual aluminum of the lower intake.

This is where we'll reinstall our ignition coil and ignition control module. These are 10mm but for now right, we're just going to get them in there and get them started by hand. We'll then tighten down the two bolts with a 10mm socket, ratchet, and socket extension. Lay the hold down bracket for the wiring harness back into place. Reinstall the two 10mm nuts onto the hold down for the wire harness bracket here. We'll then tighten them down with a 10-mm socket, ratchet and extension.

Reinstall your power steering and A/C bracket. Reinstall all of your 13mm hardware, which you should have marked on a bolt path sort of like this. Don't forget you also have the nut that goes on that stud on the front of the bracket. Tighten down the power steering pump bolts with a 13mm socket and ratchet.

We'll then tighten down the four power steering pump bracket bolts, three bolts and a nut with a 14mm socket and ratchet. We purchased a power steering pulley puller and installer tool set, but the problem is the threads on our installer tool either don't work, or the threads inside of our power steering pump shaft are damaged.

We whipped up a tool with some things we found already in the engine of our truck, and we'll show you what we made. Now our alternator bracket is off since we're doing our cylinder heads. However, if yours is still attached, this process will still work. You'll simply use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove this nut, which would secure the bracket on. Then you'll use either a pair of vice grips or preferably an E8 inverted torque socket and ratchet to remove the stud from the front of the head.

Once again, since we have our head apart, some of these pieces are already off, but we also used the nut that holds down the ground on a thermostat housing cover. We'll place the thermostat housing cover nut onto the back of the stud that we removed from our head. We'll then take the nut that we removed from this stud and install it backwards as far down as we can.

Then we're going to use the spacer that I had lying around the shop. You could also use a large washer. You want to make sure it's a nice thick one. We'll toss that on there. There's a trolley, so when we tighten down this nut, it won't rotate this. It will just push it in and push our pulley on.

We're just going to apply a thin coat of brake grease onto the shaft here to try to make our pulley go on just a little bit easier. Line up the pulley onto the shaft and install the stud. You want to get that in as tight as you can to start. Run in our 14mm nut into the spacer which is going to help center our pulley. We'll then use one 14mm wrench to hold the stud and the pump shaft in place and another 14mm wrench to tighten down the nut on the installer.

Reinstall the stud into the bank two cylinder head with you E8 inverted torque socket and ratchet. Make sure it bottoms out. Press the clamp for the water pump hose and reinstall it onto its fitting. Then reinstall your alternator bracket. We'll then tighten down all of the 14mm hardware with a socket and ratchet. Reinstall your alternator into the bracket.

Reinstall the two 13mm at the bottom of the alternator. Reinstall the 10mm bolt in the back of the alternator. Tighten it down with your 10mm socket and ratchet. Reconnect all of your electrical connectors and vacuum hoses. Apply some thread sealant to the cooling temp sensor and reinstall it into the bank one cylinder head if you removed it earlier like we did to paint.

Reconnect that electrical connector as well. Reinstall the ground strap at the bottom front of the motor, tighten down the 14mm nut. Reconnect the crank position sensor. Snap the heater hose back into place, clip it back into its plastic retainer as well. We'll also run the other heater line back through its bracket. Don't forget, remove your bolt if you kept it there like we did. Reconnect the heater hose and use a pair of pliers to move the clamp back into position. Reinstall your 10mm bolt. Reconnect the alternator power terminal to the stud on the back of the alternator. We'll resecure this with the 13mm washer and nut.

Reinstall your throttle cables. Remember to hook them into the bracket over the AC compressor. Loop them around. The one with the barrel end like this goes into the square slot. Then open the throttle body blade. Install by looping at around into its slot, and flipping it back into place.

Then send the round cruise control cable in, lock that in, and just snap that hook back over to tab. Install the vacuum boost to line on the rear of the intake manifold. I'm going to use locking jaw pliers this time to compress the clamp. That can be a little bit easier sometimes, depending on what style. Put the A/C compressor back into its bracket, and reinstall the four bolts and then tighten them down with a 13mm socket, ratchet, and extension.

Reconnect the connector on the A/C compressor clutch and the two connectors on the back. Reinstall the tensioner and the 13mm bolt in the center. Don't forget to line up that tab on the back with its whole in the bracket and tighten down the 13mm bolt with a socket and ratchet.

Reinstall the serpentine belt around the crank shaft. The right side, the driver side of the belt will go up and over the water pump, down and under the power steering pulley, up and over the AC compressor, under the idler pulley at the top and the passenger side will come up over the tensioner. Hold the tensioner with the drive of a 3/8th ratchet and rotate it counterclockwise to release the tension, so you can slide it over the alternator pulley.

Ensure that the belt is routed correctly. Release the tension and remove your ratchet. Using a pair of locking jaw pliers, compress the clamp on the upper radiator hose. If you removed yours fully from the radiator, we're going to install the radiator side first. Release the clamp, compress the clamp for the thermostat side. We left ours on the housing. Reinstall that hose as well as its clamp.

Reinstall the upper fan shroud. If you remember ours was missing two bolts, so we'll only be reinstalling five. Yours should have seven. Don't forget throughout the power wire back over from your battery. Place the coil plug back onto the ignition coil and then the passenger rear on the distributor is marked C for your coil so we'll reinstall that line there. The rest of them are pretty self-explanatory. It goes six, four, two, eight on the passenger side.

We'll reinstall those wires in the same order and then connect them to the corresponding spark plug. Remember the passenger bank at the front is cylinder two followed by four, six, eight, while the driver side starts with cylinder one and goes three, five, seven. Once all the wires are plugged in, we'll route them along to their appropriate plugs. Now your distributor cap is marked on the opposite side so repeat this process and install the wires over there as well.

Reinstall the upper intake and the thumb screw. Reconnect your PCV breather hose. Reinstall the mass airflow and intake air temp sensors. Install the air box lid and snap it down into place. Reconnect your negative battery terminal and tighten it back down with a 8mm socket and ratchet or an 8mm wrench. Once you've refilled the coolant and changed your oil, you're ready to start your vehicle.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.

How to Replace Intake Manifold Gaskets 1996-99 GMC K1500 5-7L

step 1 :Disconnecting the Battery

step 2 :Removing the Air Intake

step 3 :Removing the Upper Fan Shroud

step 4 :Removing the Serpentine Belt

step 5 :Removing the Upper Radiator Hose

step 6 :Removing the Throttle Cables and AC Compressor

step 7 :Removing the Alternator

step 8 :Removing the Tensioner

step 9 :Removing the Alternator Bracket

step 10 :Disconnecting the Wiring Harnesses

step 11 :Removing the Distributor Cap

step 12 :Setting the Engine Timing

step 13 :Removing the Distributor

step 14 :Removing the Ignition Coil Module

step 15 :Removing the Power Steering Pump Pulley

step 16 :Removing the Intake Manifold

step 17 :Cleaning the Manifold and Engine

step 18 :Installing the Intake Manifold

step 19 :Installing the Valve Cover

step 20 :Reattaching the Fuel Line Fittings and EGR Tube

step 21 :Preparing the Distributor

step 22 :Installing the Distributor

step 23 :Reinstalling the Power Steering Pulley

step 24 :Reinstalling the Alternator and Harnesses

step 25 :Reinstall the Throttle Cables and the AC Compressor

step 26 :Installing the Serpentine Belt

step 27 :Installing the Upper Radiator Hose

step 28 :Installing the Ignition Coil

step 29 :Installing the Upper Air Intake

step 30 :Reconnecting the Battery

Tools needed

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How To Replace Intake Manifold Gaskets 2002-07 Mazda 6

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Instructional Video Library

How to Replace Intake Manifold Gaskets 1996-99 GMC K1500 5-7L

step 1 :Disconnecting the Battery 1:00

step 2 :Removing the Air Intake 1:24

step 3 :Removing the Upper Fan Shroud 2:00

step 4 :Removing the Serpentine Belt 2:51

step 5 :Removing the Upper Radiator Hose 3:09

step 6 :Removing the Throttle Cables and AC Compressor 4:04

step 7 :Removing the Alternator 5:59

step 8 :Removing the Tensioner 6:32

step 9 :Removing the Alternator Bracket 7:18

step 10 :Disconnecting the Wiring Harnesses 8:00

step 11 :Removing the Distributor Cap 11:26

step 12 :Setting the Engine Timing 12:50

step 13 :Removing the Distributor 15:27

step 14 :Removing the Ignition Coil Module 16:03

step 15 :Removing the Power Steering Pump Pulley 18:13

step 16 :Removing the Intake Manifold 21:08

step 17 :Cleaning the Manifold and Engine 23:23

step 18 :Installing the Intake Manifold 25:07

step 19 :Installing the Valve Cover 27:30

step 20 :Reattaching the Fuel Line Fittings and EGR Tube 28:35

step 21 :Preparing the Distributor 29:29

step 22 :Installing the Distributor 30:55

step 23 :Reinstalling the Power Steering Pulley 32:53

step 24 :Reinstalling the Alternator and Harnesses 37:25

step 25 :Reinstall the Throttle Cables and the AC Compressor 40:05

step 26 :Installing the Serpentine Belt 41:44

step 27 :Installing the Upper Radiator Hose 42:47

step 28 :Installing the Ignition Coil 43:51

step 29 :Installing the Upper Air Intake 45:12

step 30 :Reconnecting the Battery 45:40

Tools needed

Shop Products

Chevrolet GMC Head Gasket Set TRQ SGA11302

How To Replace Intake Manifold Gaskets 2002-07 Mazda 6

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Guaranteed To Fit

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Instructional Video Library

step 1 :Disconnecting the Battery

step 2 :Removing the Air Intake

step 3 :Removing the Upper Fan Shroud

step 4 :Removing the Serpentine Belt

step 5 :Removing the Upper Radiator Hose

step 6 :Removing the Throttle Cables and AC Compressor

step 7 :Removing the Alternator

step 8 :Removing the Tensioner

step 9 :Removing the Alternator Bracket

step 10 :Disconnecting the Wiring Harnesses

step 11 :Removing the Distributor Cap

step 12 :Setting the Engine Timing

step 13 :Removing the Distributor

step 14 :Removing the Ignition Coil Module

step 15 :Removing the Power Steering Pump Pulley

step 16 :Removing the Intake Manifold

step 17 :Cleaning the Manifold and Engine

step 18 :Installing the Intake Manifold

step 19 :Installing the Valve Cover

step 20 :Reattaching the Fuel Line Fittings and EGR Tube

step 21 :Preparing the Distributor

step 22 :Installing the Distributor

step 23 :Reinstalling the Power Steering Pulley

step 24 :Reinstalling the Alternator and Harnesses

step 25 :Reinstall the Throttle Cables and the AC Compressor

step 26 :Installing the Serpentine Belt

step 27 :Installing the Upper Radiator Hose

step 28 :Installing the Ignition Coil

step 29 :Installing the Upper Air Intake

step 30 :Reconnecting the Battery