How to Replace Power Steering Pressure Hose 2002-07 Subaru WRX
Created on: 2018-05-07
How to replace a leaking or damaged power steering high pressure hose on 2006, 2007 Subaru Impreza, WRX.
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step 1 :Removing the Air Intake Duct
- Open the hood
- Remove the two 10mm bolts from the air intake duct
- Pull the duct off the intake hose
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step 2 :Removing the Belt Shield
- Remove the 10mm bolt from the top of the belt shield
- Remove the 10mm nut from the side of the belt shield
- Pull the shield off the engine
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step 3 :Loosening the Coolant Reservoir
- Remove the two 12mm bolts from the top off the coolant reservoir
- Remove the 12mm nut from the side of the coolant reservoir
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step 4 :Separating the Power Steering Pressure Line from the Pump
- Remove the two 10mm bolt from the power steering line bracket
- Remove the 14mm banjo bolt from the power steering pump
- Place a rag under the banjo bolt to catch any fluid
- Pull the vacuum line off the intake hose
- Pull the power steering line aside
- Reconnect the vacuum line
- Remove the copper gasket from the pump
- Cut the fingertip off a glove
- Slide the glove finger over the end of the power steering line
- Remove the 10mm bolt from the second power steering line bracket
- Pry up the bracket tabs with a flat blade screwdriver
- Pull the brackets open
- Put the brackets aside to reuse
- Unclip the coolant lines to access the power steering line
- Guide the power steering line out of the engine bay
- Clip the coolant lines into place
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step 5 :Separating the Power Steering Line from the Power Steering Rack
- Raise and support the vehicle
- Remove the 10mm bolt from the bracket at the rack end of the power steering line
- Counterhold the line with a 17mm wrench
- Loosen the line from the rack with a 14mm wrench
- Place a rag under the line to catch any fluid
- Remove the line from the rack
- Pull the line out from the top of the engine bay
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step 6 :Connecting the Line to the Rack
- Check that the O-ring remained in the steering rack connector
- Thread the adapter into the steering rack
- Hold the rack connector with a 14mm wrench
- Tighten the adapter with a 19mm wrench
- Feed the line into the engine bay from below, with the right angle end at the top
- Thread the line onto the adapter
- Hold the adapter with a 19mm wrench
- Tighten the line with an 18mm wrench
- Remove the rag from under the line and clean any fluid
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step 7 :Connecting the Line to the Pump
- Thread the line through the engine bay
- Put the copper washer into place
- Thread the adapter into the pump by hand
- Tighten the adapter with an 18mm socket and ratchet
- Connect the line to the adapter
- Push the hose into its brackets
- Clip the brackets together
- Fasten the 10mm bolts into the brackets
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step 8 :Installing the Coolant Reservoir
- Line up the coolant reservoir
- Start the two 12mm bolts into the top of the coolant reservoir
- Fasten the 10mm nut onto the coolant tank stud
- Tighten the two 12mm bolts
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step 9 :Installing the Line, Continued
- Tighten the line onto the pump with an 18mm wrench
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step 10 :Checking the Power Steering Fluid
- Start the engine
- Turn the wheels from side to side
- Check around the line for leaks
- Check the power steering fluid level
- Add fluid as necessary
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step 11 :Installing the Belt Shield
- Line up the belt shield on the engine
- Fasten the 10mm nut onto the side of the shield
- Fasten the 10mm bolt into the top of the shield
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step 12 :Installing the Air Duct
- Line up the air duct with air intake hose
- Fasten the two 10mm bolts that hold the air duct to the frame
- Close the hood
Tools needed
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14mm Wrench
12mm Socket
Socket Extensions
17mm Wrench
18mm Wrench
19mm Wrench
18mm Socket
Gloves
Flat Blade Screwdriver
10mm Socket
Ratchet
Cloth Rags
12mm Wrench
Hi. I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Go in. Pull the hood release. Take the hood safety latch. Push it to the passenger side. Put the prop rod up.
Remove the air intake duct. Use a 10-millimeter socket. I've got a pretty long extension. It doesn't really matter. You can use a shorter extension. This is just so I don't have to bend over as much. Remove the two 10-millimeter bolts holding it in. Lift up the air duct. This unclips from the side where it goes into the fender, and we'll put that aside.
We're going to remove this protective cover over the belts. There's a 10-millimeter bolt here, a 10-millimeter nut on the stud, and then it sits in on a rubber bushing. So I'll start with the bolt over here. Take the nut out. Lift it up off of the mount. Bring it off the stud and then up and off.
Start with the two top ones. They're 12 millimeter, so needs a 12-millimeter socket ratchet extension. Get these free. Put those aside. You can use a 12-millimeter ratcheting wrench to get to this one. You can use a socket and ratchet, whatever you have access to. Once that nut's loose, I'll take it off with my fingers. That way I'll have some movement here, and I can get the power steering line out from underneath it.
It's a 10-millimeter bracket bolt holding the power steering line, both the pressure and the return. So you can see some fluid coming out of it. It's leaking. Gently lift up on this harness. Just push it out of the way. Use a 10-millimeter socket to loosen this up. Pull the bolt out of here. Then go for the other bolt that's holding on the bracket here. It's a 10 millimeter. With that bolt loose enough, I can just sneak my hand in here and get it out. So that's the bracket.
I’m going to loosen the banjo bolt for the pressure line into the pump. It's a 14 millimeter. Use a 14-millimeter socket, extension, and a ratchet. Once this is loose, you'll have some power steering fluid come out. So kind of put a rag here to catch most of it. Carefully pull this vacuum line off. I can put it back.
Remove the copper gasket that was sealing it. I have a new one.
I'm going to take another latex glove that we have and some scissors and just cut the fingertip off, and then I'll slide it over the end of the hose so as I'm handling the hose I'm not dripping fluid everywhere. It kind of keeps some of that contained, just like that.
Get this bottom bolt here. It's 10 millimeter. I've got this bolt loose with my fingers. Take out that lower bolt. The bracket is loose and away, but I need to separate the bracket. So there's some tabs here. I can fold those over and open up the bracket. Use a small flat-bladed screwdriver. Just pry them up, both sides. You’ve just got to separate this bracket. Pull it apart now. Pop the pressure line out of it. It's still stuck in this other one over here that I need to separate. So there's a tab here. I'm going to take a flat-bladed screwdriver and just try to open up the tab, just like that. So now the brackets are loose. Lift up on this bracket and pop this bracket off of here and push the pressure line out of that bracket.
So the low pressure line is going to stay there, and I'm going to guide this out. I'm going to put these bracket pieces aside for now because I will reuse them, but I don't want to drop them somewhere. I'm going to guide the pressure line out underneath some of these coolant lines. You can pop these out of here if that makes it easier. Pop those back in, and kind of flex this line underneath. Just guide it past these wires. So now it's just connected to the steering rack. You can see where it was starting to leak between the metal crimp part and the hose.
You can raise and support the vehicle with a jack and jack stands or you can use a two-post lift. The pressure line comes down from the top. There's one more bracket with a 10-millimeter bolt in it I need to remove. Then I can break it free from the lines that go into the rack. It’s kind of hard to see. This is the one that's closest to us right here for the pressure line. I'm going to use a 10-millimeter socket and ratchet, and the bolt is on the top. It's on this little bracket here. I'm going to put that aside.
Now the line is loose from that bracket, and I can remove it from the steering rack. So we're going to use a 14-millimeter flared wrench for lines, and you have to maneuver it up here and get it onto the nut that's on the line coming off the rack. I'm just basically putting it onto the nut, getting it seated, and I need to break it free. Worst case, I need to counterhold. There's a larger hex section that's fixed to the line. It doesn't spin. This is 17 millimeter. So I'm going to have to go in here like this and hold it with the 17 millimeter and then break this line free.
At this point, when you break it free, some fluid's probably going to come out. So have a drain pan ready or a rag. Just be aware. For now, I think I can take the counterhold wrench out of the way so it doesn't fall. A good tip is to let the car cool off before you do this because this is the exhaust and you're going to be touching this exhaust and you don't want it to be super hot. So I just keep working at it until it comes loose. It's going to take you a while. It's a really tight confined space. I stuffed a rag in here because it's starting to drip down, but eventually I didn't need to counterhold it anymore. It started to come loose, and there it is now. Got it loose in my fingers. This line is removed.
Get this line right here. You can kind of see it. I'm going to pull it up from the top to remove it. Now you can remove the line straight out of the car. Try not to get fluid everywhere. See where it was leaking, where the rubber hose meets the crimped connections on both ends. So under pressure it was spraying out down here, and it sprays out near the exhaust which is not great.
We're going to install our adapter to use a braided stainless steel line for the pressure line. This adapts to the factory rack. So it's going to sit down on top of it. Make sure the O-ring stayed there, which ours did. I'll thread these together. Get them started by hand. After you get it threaded down by hand, then go back up with a 14-millimeter line wrench. I'll get that place, then I'm going to counterhold it. The adapter is 19 millimeter. Counterhold it while I tighten it. I'm just going to tighten it until I feel it get pretty tight, and I'll go a little bit more. I don't want to over-tighten it. This right there feels good. Take the line wrench off.
The right angle goes up towards the pump, so I'm going to feed that up from the bottom. This is a -6AN fitting. It matches up with that adapter, so get it in place here and tighten it down. There's no O-rings for AN fittings, but you do make sure it's seated properly, and thread it on by hand. I'm just using some stubby wrenches because of clearance, but counterhold the adapter with a 19 millimeter. Then go up with an 18 millimeter and tighten the fitting I just threaded on. Once I feel it get tight, I'll go a little bit more and stop. You don't want to over-tighten them because they're aluminum. You could damage them. I’ve just got to take out this rag. Don't want to forget it in there, and just clean up as much of this oil as I can and move to the top.
We have our line. We're going to run it underneath like where the factory one went. And start it this way. The braided line's a little stiffer. You're going to keep running it underneath. Then it went up and around. These actually give you enough line that instead of running the way the factory went, you can run it over and around like that.
It's going to sit just like that with the adapter. So we put the adapter that goes into the pump so that it can accept the AN fitting and the new copper washer to seal. So I'll get that threaded in by hand first. Use an 18-millimeter deep socket to tighten that, so it's starting to contact the washer. I just want it to crush the washer so it seals. Once I feel it get tight, go a little bit more and then I'll stop.
So I'll get this line. Bend it over and in place. Before I tighten that, I'm going to push the hose up and in this bracket. Just going to help route it. When this bracket gets closed up, lock it back over, and it's going to go underneath the coolant surge tank here just like that. There's another bracket I need to reinstall. I'm going to go in from this angle here in the back and go underneath that line. Then I can hook this here. Get it hooked around. It's going to go up a little bit and then down. You can lift up the surge tank. Over that stud. Clip the bottom together.
So we've clipped them together, and now we need to slide this down just a little bit here to line up where it mounts, which is right there. This is going to mount up here. We're going to install this 10-millimeter bolt that's holding the bottom of the bracket. Tighten it up. Install this top one. Get it started. Once I feel this get tight, I'll just stop. It's just a small bolt. I don't want to break it off. Get this bracket lined up. Install the bolt that holds on this bracket. Get it started.
Put the surge tank back on. I'll get these top bolts caught. Thread these down. Do that to the stud down here. Tighten those up. These are going in the aluminum in the intake manifold, so once they get tight, I'm just going to stop. I don't want to over-tighten them, break them. Use a ratcheting wrench on this one. When I feel that get tightened, I'll stop.
Now we can tighten this one using an 18-millimeter wrench. Once I feel it get tight, stop. Now we can check the level of the system, which we didn't lose very much fluid. Start the car up. Check for leaks. Add any fluid if we need to. I'm going to start it up, check for leaks, and bleed the system. Just turn it back and forth. I’m going to check the fluid level. It's only a little bit low. No leaks up here. No leaks on the bottom. Just some residual fluid. So we're good to go.
Reinstall the cover. Put the nut back on. Tighten it down. Now tighten this one. Okay.
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