Created on: 2016-11-09
This video will show the steps for replacing the power steering pump if it's broken or damaged and needs to be replaced
Adjustable Wrench
Funnel
Socket Extensions
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
18mm Wrench
Jack Stands
3/8 Inch Drive Ratchet
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Phillips Head Screwdriver
7mm Socket
10mm Socket
Drain Pan
Transmission Fluid
Floor Jack
Needle nose pliers
Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. We've created thousands of videos to help you install our parts with confidence. That saves you time and money, so visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
In this video, we're going to be working with our 2001 Ford Ranger 4.0-liter V6. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your power steering pump.
If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this truck, as well as many other makes and models. If you ever need parts for your vehicle, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com.
Here are the items you'll need for this repair: Phillips screwdriver, 7-10mm sockets, 3/8 drive ratchet, socket extensions, flat blade screwdriver, hammer, penetrating oil, 18mm wrench, pliers, jack and jack stands, funnel, transmission
We're going to remove this cover over the throttle body. Use a small Phillips head screwdriver to remove these two screws and a 7mm socket and ratchet for the bolt in the back. Remove the cover from the intake.
We use a flat blade screwdriver to loosen these two screw type clamps on our intake tube. We'll then wiggle the tube off of the math sensor on the throttle body and remove it from the vehicle. You also have to remove this breather line from the back, so we remove the intake tube from the throttle body and the math, and pull it straight from the breather and remove it from the vehicle.
Your serpentine belt tensioner is located on the passenger side of the engine, just below the alternator. At the bottom there is a 3/8 square drive, which we'll use the end of a 3/8 drive ratchet for. Install it into the drive the same way you would install a socket onto a ratchet. We're going to pull that clockwise to put some tension onto the belt and keep our pulley from rotating. We use a 10mm socket and ratchet to crack the bolts on the pulley loose.
There's three of the 10mm bolts on here. You don't want to remove them fully, you just want to break that initial torque off of them. So when we remove our ratchet and take the tension off of the belt, we can finish removing them. Once you've got them correct and loose, go ahead and switch your ratchet around so you can rotate counterclockwise and take the tension off of the belt and remove it from the pulleys.
Make sure your vehicle has either a belt path diagram somewhere in the engine bay and if it doesn't, you can draw one up yourself. Remove your ratchet from the tensioner and you don't have to fully remove the belt here so I'm just going to let it hang. Remove those bolts from the pulley.
Once the bolts are out, there is a little bit of a tension fit here on the pulley, so you may have to tap it off. If you rotate it back and forth a little. It will actually walk the pulley off nice and easy. You can remove it from the vehicle.
At this point, if you haven't removed the belt fully, go ahead and do that because we're going to be using some penetrating oil. When we remove the lines for the power steering pump, we're going to let some fluid out. You don't want to get that onto your belt because they could damage the rubber. Once that's out of the way, we'll spray some penetrating oil on this fitting here. Let that soak in for a minute. This flare nut here is an 18 millimeter.
Now the best way to try to remove one of these flare nuts is with a 5.0 flare nut wrench. If you don't have one, you can use an open end. You just want to give it a good feel when you're trying to loosen it to make sure it doesn't feel like it's going to round off. Ours moves nice and freely. Now this can be a little tough to get up. If you have stubby 18 millimeter wrench, we recommend you use that once you've cracked it loose. Otherwise, you'll just have to go there about an 8th of a turn at a time to get it out.
If you have one of the ratcheting wrenches or a small adjustable wrench, those tend to be a little bit smaller too and once the majority of the torque is off of this, they're pretty easy to remove. Before fully removing this nut, make sure that you have a drain bucket under the vehicle to catch all the power steering fluid that's going to come out of here. Once it's cracked loose there, finish it by hand. Pop the line out. Let that power steering fluid drain out into your catch pan. Now sometimes you can remove the rubber hose here at the bottom that feeds the power steering fluid into the pump from the reservoir, but ours isn't a pretty tough spot to get that clamp off, so we'll remove the pump first and then the hose once we can move it around and get it where we want it.
To do this, we'll use a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet to remove these three bolts from the pump. Once the bolts are out, the pump can be moved down and out of the bracket. Make sure you still have your drain bucket under there because some fluid may come out from you moving it around. It will definitely come out when we remove the line from the reservoir. Now we can get a good grip on that clamp to remove the hose from the bottom of our pump. Using a pair of pliers, compress the clamp. Slide it down. If the hose is stuck on there, you can gently grab it with the pliers and twist the pump and the hose back and forth until it comes free.
Now there's nothing wrong with our old power steering pump, so we're going to go ahead and reinstall it. Place the inlet line back on. Using your pliers, compress that clamp and slide it back up on top of the rubber hose. We'll work it back down past the fan here. Remember the blades on that fan are only plastic, so be very careful not to put too much pressure against them and risk breaking them. Remove the pressure line out of the way if you have to.
Line the pump up and start your three 10 millimeter bolts by hand. Then tighten your bolts down with the 10 millimeter socket and ratchet. Reinstall your power steering pressure line into the bottom of the pump. Start the flare nut by hand. Once you've got the flare nut started, go ahead and tighten it back down with your 18 millimeter wrench. Remember while a stubby is suggested, this is doable with a full size wrench. You're just not going to be able to get as long of a swing on it.
Reinstall your power steering pulley onto the pump. You want to try to line this up as best you can, because it's a little difficult to move once you get it worked on there. Then reinstall your three 10mm bolts by hand. Make sure you get them down as tight as you can. We're going to loop our belt here, feed it down, and hook it around the crank shaft to start. We're coming in from the passenger side here because that's how it's going to be easiest to route our belt.
Once we're hooked around the crank, we'll run the smooth part of our belt over the water pump to the driver side. We'll go under our A/C compressor at the far end. Be sure that that's seated in fully. We'll go over our power steering pump at the top here. We'll run the other side of the belt coming off of our crank around the tensioner. That's from underneath, so the ribbed part will also be touching the tensioner the same way it comes out from under the crank, and the ribbed portion will go again over the top of our alternator. Now when we release tension, we can push down in the middle and go underneath our smooth idler pulley.
Reinstall our ratchet into the tensioner. Turn it counterclockwise again. Try to get as much swing here so we can pull it over pretty far. Go underneath the smooth pulley, inspect one more time for proper belt path and that you are not hooked on the edge of any pulleys. With your ratchet still on the tensioner, turn it clockwise as hard as you can to put some extra tension on the belt, and then tighten down your 10mm power steering pulley bolts. Remove your ratchet from the tensioner.
Reinstall your intake components so you can run the vehicle. Reinstall the breather line in both ends of the intake tube to the throttle body and the air box. Tighten down the clamps with a flat blade screwdriver. Reinstall the engine cover. We'll tighten down the front two screws with a Phillips head screwdriver and the rear with a 7mm socket.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.