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How to Replace Rear Axle 1998-2009 Chevy Trailblazer

Created on: 2011-06-03

Check out this video from 1A Auto to learn how you can replace the rear axle on your 98-09 Chevy Trailblazer.

  1. step 1 :Removing the Wheel
    • Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
    • Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
    • Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
    • Secure the vehicle on jack stands
    • Remove the lug nuts
    • Pull off the wheel
  2. step 2 :Removing the Brake Pads
    • Pry the brake pads in with a flat blade screwdriver to push in the pistons
    • Remove the two 14mm bolts from the brake caliper
    • Pull the caliper aside
    • Pry out the brake pads with a flat blade screwdriver
  3. step 3 :Removing the Brake Rotor
    • Remove two 18mm bolts from the brake caliper bracket
    • Pull off the brake caliper bracket
    • Pull the rotor off
    • If the rotor will not pull off thread two M10 by 7cm bolts into the threaded holes
    • For more detailed instructions, please see the 2004 Trailblazer rear brake replacement video
  4. step 4 :Accessing the Differential
    • Have a drain pan ready
    • Remove all but two bolts from the differential cover
    • Drain the differential fluid
  5. step 5 :Removing the Axle
    • Put the vehicle into neutral
    • Turn the driveshaft by hand until you can access the differential bolt
    • Remove the 5/16 inch bolt from the differential
    • Pull the clip from the differential
    • Slide out the differential pin
    • Push the axle inward by hand
    • Pull out the small C-clamp from the differential
    • Pull the axle out by hand
  6. step 6 :Installing the New Axle
    • Slide the axle in being sure not to drag against the seal
    • Install the C-clamp onto the axle with the grooved side toward the center
    • Push the axle out by hand
    • Line the gears up by hand
    • Insert the differential pin
    • Start the 5/16 inch bolt into the differential
    • Apply thread locking fluid to the 5/16 inch bolt
    • Tighten the 5/16 inch bolt to between 8 -10 foot-pounds of torque
  7. step 7 :Reinstalling the Differential Cover
    • Clean the mounting area with a cloth rag
    • Clean the differential cover with a cloth rag
    • Apply sealant to the gasket cover
    • Put the gasket and differential cover into place
    • Start two bolts into the differential cover by hand
    • Start the remaining bolts
    • Tighten the bolts to about 12 foot-pounds
  8. step 8 :Refilling the Rear End
    • Remove the differential plug with a 3/8 inch drive ratchet
    • Fill the differential with 80w-90 gear oil, until fluid begins to leak out
    • Put the plug back in and tighten it
    • Clean grease off the rear end
  9. step 9 :Reinstalling the Brake Rotor
    • Slide the rotor on
    • Put the bracket back into place
    • Start the 18mm bolts by hand
    • Tighten the bolts
  10. step 10 :Reinstalling the Brake Pads
    • Install the new brake pads into the bracket with the wear indicator on the lower side
    • Put the caliper on
    • Thread the two 14mm bolts by hand
    • Tighten the 14mm bolts
  11. step 11 :Reattaching the Wheel
    • Slide the wheel into place
    • Start the lug nuts by hand
    • Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
    • Lower the vehicle to the ground
    • Tighten the lug nuts to between 100 - 120 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
    • Reattach the center cap
  12. step 12 :Testing the Brakes
    • Pump your brakes repeatedly until they feel firm
    • Test your brakes at 5 miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour
    • Road test the vehicle

Tools needed

  • Funnel

    A Piece of Pipe (for leverage)

    Socket Extensions

    Torque Wrench

    Jack Stands

    3/8 Inch Drive Ratchet

    Liquid Thread Locker

    M10 x 7cm bolts

    Gear Oil

    Flat Blade Screwdriver

    Gasket Adhesive

    Complete SAE Socket Set

    Drain Pan

    Ratchet

    Floor Jack

    Cloth Rags

    1/2 Inch Breaker Bar

    Complete Metric Socket Set

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly: that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.

In this video, we're going to show you how to remove a rear axle on this 2004 Chevy Trailblazer. This is pretty indicative of any Chevy or GM product that has a C-Clip rear axle, and when I say C-Clip, you'll see what I mean in the video. You'll need various metric and standard sockets or wrenches, ranging in size from 5/16's inch to 19 millimeters with the ratchets and the extensions, a breaker bar or a pipe for leverage for some of those bolts that are tighter than others, catch pin, jack and jack stands, flat blade screwdriver and two M10 by 7 centimeter bolts, as well as a 3/8's drive ratchet with an extension.

For the rear tire, the lug nuts are 19 millimeters. If you don't have air tools, you want to start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, raise it, support it with jack stands, and then remove the lug nuts. We'll use some fast forward as we remove the rest of the lug nuts and the wheel.

We want to use a screwdriver. What I'm doing is pulling out on the caliper. That just helps to get it off the brake pads. You remove two bolts, and then remove the caliper. On this vehicle, those are 14 millimeter bolts. Pull up on the caliper, put it up and out of your way, and then you can just pry out the brake pads. You actually can skip this step. You can just pull the bracket off. Then you want the pad bracket, two 18 millimeter bolts on this vehicle. I'm going to use a piece of pipe, along with my ratchet, and the pipe actually just gives you some extra leverage. Then on the lower bolt on this vehicle, it has a clearance issue, so I'm going to put on my 18 millimeter wrench. Then I'm going to hook another 17 millimeter wrench on to it and pull down. Then, finish off taking those bolts out. Now, the bracket comes off, and then hopefully, your disc will just pull off. On this vehicle, it doesn't, but the vehicle has two threaded holes, so you insert some M10 metric bolts and use your wrench. You tighten those bolts up, which forces the disc off of the hub.

Now, you want to turn your drive shaft with your vehicle in neutral until you have a good angle at that bolt right there. Using a 5/16 inch socket, remove this bolt. As you remove this bolt, you want to hold this pin up here, pull that bolt out, and let that slowly slide down. That will allow you to actually push your axle in, which then allows you to pull out a C-clamp. It should just fall down here. I need a magnet. That C-clamp comes out, which now allows you to pull out slowly your axle.
Now, put the axle back in. You want to lift up on it so it doesn't drag against your seal. You just move it around a little bit, push it in, just has to find its way on the inside. Here, what you're really hoping is nothing has moved, so we're going to take our C-clamp, and the side that has a groove near the center is the one you want to put towards the center. You just put that on to the axle that's pushing out through right there. Then you can actually push the axle back by hand. Make sure you have this shaft nice and clean. Put it up in with the hole at the bottom. This is where you're hoping that these gears didn't move around at all. It would appear that they did just a little bit. I'm just going to line it up with my finger. It goes in, push this in, start it into place, and your axle's locked back in place. As that's going in, I'm just going to hit it with a little dab of Loctite. Being greasy and stuff, it's not going to stick that well, but that's okay. You want to tighten this up probably to about 8 to 10 foot pounds, which is tight with this little wrench. That's good.

Now we're going to get back into cleaning everything up and putting it back together, so I just wipe down the inside as much as I can, get as much dirt and everything out of there as possible. Now clean up and wipe down your rear end cover, and there's a little rectangle there that's the magnet. Make sure you get that wiped off really well. Right there displaying it, you can see I clean it up better. On this one, you do reuse your gasket, and I put just a little bit of sealant on the cover just to help with some of the crustiness from the rust. Now, we'll put our cover up there, start it with a couple bolts, then start all the bolts by hand, and then tighten them preliminarily with a wrench after that. Now, we skip forward. You want to torque these bolts to about 12 foot pounds. It's not very much, but it's enough to seal it. You don't want to over-torque it, because you'll get leaks because you warp your differential cover. About 12 foot pounds, I tighten them using an opposite pattern, and then I just go around one by one and just make sure they're all tight.

Now, we're going to refill the rear end. There's a plug right on the passenger side. Use a 3/8's ratchet with an extension, remove that plug, and then fill it with 80w-90 gear oil. I use a little tube; it helps get the bottle in the position so that you can fill it easier. Once you've filled it and the fluid starts dripping down, put your plug back in, tighten it up. You don't have to tighten it incredibly tight, but get it nice and snug, and then wipe down all the grease off of the rear end so you can check for leaks later.

Now, I'm going to put the brakes back together. If you want to see this in regular speed, just check out our other videos for the Trailblazer rear brake installation. You can see I've got both a new backing plate and new brakes on there. If you want to see those, just check out our other videos on the whole process for that. We'll get through that.

Very important, you've had your brakes apart, you obviously want to torque your lug nuts on there properly. You want to pump your brakes afterwards, make sure that you get your brakes reset and make sure that they're working properly before you test drive the vehicle. Torque the lug nuts to between 100 and 120 foot-pounds. I use a crossing star type pattern, and then you can put your cap back on. Always make sure after you've had your brakes apart, that you pump the pedal a bunch of times, work the pressure back up, and make sure you work the brake caliper pistons back into place.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

2002 - 2006  Chevrolet  Trailblazer EXT
2002 - 2009  Chevrolet  Trailblazer
2004 - 2007  Buick  Rainier
2002 - 2004  Oldsmobile  Bravada
2004 - 2005  GMC  Envoy XUV
2002 - 2006  GMC  Envoy XL
2002 - 2009  GMC  Envoy
2003 - 2008  Isuzu  Ascender
2005 - 2009  Saab  9-7X

02-09 GM Isuzu Saab Mid Size SUV Front Axle Shaft LF = RF

Front CV Axle Assembly TRQ CSA82129

Part Details:

  • 26
  • 27
  • 701.6 mm
  • 27.62 in
  • Male
  • Standard Replacement
  • No
  • M24x2.0
  • Yes
  • Rubber
$103.95
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