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How to Replace Rear Brake Caliper 2007-11 Honda CR-V

Created on: 2018-07-23

How to replace a stuck or rusted rear brake caliper on 09 Honda CR-V.

  1. step 1 :Removing the Wheel
    • Loosen the 19mm lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
    • Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
    • Secure the vehicle on jack stands
    • Remove the lug nuts
    • Pull off the wheel
  2. step 2 :Removing the Brake Caliper
    • Remove the Phillips screws from the rotor
    • Remove 12mm bolts from the brake caliper
    • Pull the caliper aside
    • Hang the caliper by a bungee cord
    • Pry the brake pads off from the caliper and caliper bracket
    • Remove 17mm bolts from the brake caliper bracket
    • Pull off the brake caliper bracket
  3. step 3 :Installing the Brake Caliper Bracket
    • Remove the plug from the new caliper
    • Put the caliper bracket back into place
    • Start the bolts by hand
    • Tighten the bolts to 79 foot-pounds of torque
    • Apply grease to the brake pad tabs
  4. step 4 :Installing the New Brake Caliper
    • Press the brake pad into the caliper
    • Install the new brake pad into the bracket
    • Put the caliper on
    • Thread bolts by hand
    • Tighten bolts to 17 foot-pounds
    • Have a drain pan ready
    • Remove the bungee cord from the old caliper
    • Pry off the clip from the back of the caliper with a flat blade screwdriver
    • Secure the caliper with a pry bar
    • Loosen the 14mm bolt from the brake line
    • Remove the seal from the bolt
    • Insert a new seal/copper washer to the bolt
    • Slide the bolt through
    • Insert the second seal/washer to the bolt
    • Insert the bolt into place
    • Loosen the bleeder screw with a 10mm screw
    • Tighten the brake hose bolt
    • Torque the brake hose bolt to 26 foot-pounds
    • Tighten the bleeder bolt
  5. step 5 :Bleeding the Brakes
    • Insert a 10mm wrench to the bleeder valve
    • Connect a tube to the bleeder valve
    • Run the tube into a plastic bottle with some brake fluid in it
    • Run the tube up over the caliper and then down
    • Instruct the assistant to step on the brake pedal
    • Loosen the bleeder valve with a 10mm wrench
    • Open the hood
    • Clean off the brake fluid reservoir cap
    • Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap
    • Add brake fluid so it reaches the MAX line
    • Twist and lock the cap on
    • Press the brake pedal slowly 3 or 4 times
    • Check the line for air
    • Tighten the bleeder valve
  6. step 6 :Reattaching the Wheel
    • Slide the wheel into place
    • Start the lug nuts by hand
    • Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
    • Lower the vehicle to the ground
    • Tighten the lug nuts to 80 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern

Tools needed

  • 12mm Socket

    Socket Extensions

    Flat Blade Screwdriver

    17mm Wrench

    Pry Bar

    17mm Socket

    19mm Socket

    Bungee Cord

    10mm Wrench

    Ratchet

    1/2 Inch Breaker Bar

Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!

Right. I'm going to take this wheel off. We're going to use the 19mm socket and a breaker bar, and loosen up the lug nuts. Just one at a time before we put the wheel up in the air. Now we'll raise and support the vehicle. Now we're going to take the lug nuts off. Just use a socket to help us. We're going to take the tire off.

All right, this caliper's kind of rusty and the bolts are kind of rusty. I'm just going to take a wire bush before I take these bolts out so that my socket fits a little bit better. I'll just wire brush the bolts for a second. Now I'll take a 12mm socket and a ratchet. Loosen these bolts up. Loosen that one up. If the caliper pin starts spinning, you can put a wrench on that. You can use a 17mm wrench to hold it from spinning. Pull that bolt out. And we'll pull this bolt out.

Now I can grab the caliper. I'm going to twist it back and forth just to loosen it up a little bit, and that compresses some of the piston. And I'm going to pull it straight out, because the pad is going to come with it. Next thing, I'm going to take a bungee cord, put it around the caliper, and we're going to secure it up here. Go around the strut assembly. Loop it a couple of times if you have to. And stick that right through there. There. Then that'll keep the tension off the brake line. Next I'll pull this brake pad off. The other one is in the caliper. You can pull this one off here. Just pull it straight out, like that. See those clips slide into the piston? Next, we're going to take these two caliper bracket bolts out. We're going to use a 17mm socket and a breaker bar. Loosen these up. Once we get those broken free, loose, then we'll just use a smaller ratchet and a 17mm socket and take them out. Once they're loose enough we'll take them off by hand. And then once they come out we'll pull the bracket straight back.

This is our old caliper. This is our new caliper and bracket from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, the configuration is the same, the bleeder screw's in the same location. This is for the driver's side, for the rear. Flip it over and the piston is the same. The bleeder where the line goes in is the same. What you're going to want to do is when you go to put the new line in you're going to pull this plug out. When we install the line we're going to install these new seals that come with the caliper. One goes on the bottom, one goes on the top with a banjo bolt. And then this also comes with these guides. We're going to install these into the new caliper before we install it. Get yours at 1AAuto.come and you'll be ready to rock and roll.

We’re going to install our new brake caliper bracket. Slide that over the rotor, then I'll take the bolts and get those started on the back side. Take our 17mm socket and ratchet and we'll snug these up, and then we're going to torque them. Next, we're going to use this 3/8 torque wrench and a 17mm socket. We sell these torque wrenches at 1AAuto.com. We're going to torque these bolts to 79 foot-pounds.

Before we put these on, we're going to want to lubricate the ears on these. And put a little bit on the surface right here. And do the same for this one. A little bit of lube on the ears. Like that. Then put a little on the face right here. Just like that. Now we're going to install the outboard pad, just like that. Now, before we install the caliper, we're going to install the brake pad into the caliper. These little ears go into the piston. Sometimes they're a little bit tricky to get in, so we're going to line this up first and put a little bit of pressure, pushing.

Once the ears are all lined up, we're going to push it down, just like that. And we can take the caliper and slide it on. You want to make sure the side you're working on, that the bleeder screw is at the top. So, this is on the driver's side. Passenger side it would be on the top, as well, it would just be reverse. Now we're going to install the caliper bracket bolts. Get those started. There's a little bit of spring pressure here, so you're going to push it on when you get these bolts in. We'll take a 17mm wrench and hold the caliper pin, then we'll take our 12mm socket and our ratchet, we'll snug these up. Then we're going to use the torque wrench and we're going to torque these to 17 foot pounds. Alright.

So, next we're going to have to take this brake line off the old caliper. So, I can take this bungee cord off for now, set that aside. One thing you're going to want to do is put a drain pan underneath, because some brake fluid's going to come off of here. So, I'm going to take this clip off right here. Just going to take a screwdriver and get underneath here. And we're not reusing the caliper, so if the clip breaks, doesn't matter. Just push that down like that. Set that aside. I'm going to use a pry bar. This is going to keep the caliper from spinning when I take this bolt off. And we'll take this bolt out. It's going to be a little bit tricky. Once I get that cracked free. I'm going to remove this pry bar. Pull the line off.

There's two seals on here. One just fell off the outside. Put that caliper down. There's another seal on the inside here. Use a screwdriver and just try to get this seal off. I'm going to install one of the new seals on the inside. It's just a copper washer. So, that is going to go this way, and then the other one is going to go on this side. We'll line this up, slide this on. Just like that. Before I tighten that down, I do want to release this bleeder screw.

Right, so now I'm going to loosen this bleeder screw up, and now I'm going to tighten down the brake hose. Snug it up with the ratchet first. Once it's snug then we'll torque it. We're going to torque this banjo bolt with the 14mm socket and the torque wrench to 26 foot pounds. Just like that. Okay, so when we left this bleeder loose, basically what we're doing is a gravity bleed right now. So, the fluid is coming from the master cylinder, going down the hoses and into the brake caliper and pushing the air out. I can snug this up right now, and then we're going to do a proper brake bleed procedure.

Right, I'm going to show you how to bleed these on your own if you don't have someone to help you out. What you're going to want to do is make one of these bleed bottles. Just take an old soda bottle and you can take some 3/16 fuel hose. The reason you use 3/16 is so it fits on the bleeder properly. So, just like that, drill a hole in the cap of the soda bottle, send the line in there. What we're going to do is we're going to put our 10mm wrench on the bleeder first, and then we'll take this hose, slide it over the bleeder, just like that.

Then we're going to position this so that it is facing down, but we want the hose going up. So, like that should be alright. Then we'll open up the bleeder. As you can see, some air's coming out right now. Then, what I'm going to do is I'm going to go and pump the brake pedal. Open the hood. So, I'm going to make sure the cap is nice and clean. Wipe it off if there's any dirt on it. I'm going to twist the cap off. Before we start bleeding the brakes, we want to add brake fluid to the top. There's the max line up here and the min line down here. We don't want the brake fluid to get below while we're bleeding the brakes.

We're going to use some Dot 3 Brake Fluid. You're going to want to check the cap. Normally it says on the cap what kind of brake fluid your vehicle requires. So, we'll fill that up to the max line, then we will bleed the brakes, and then after we will just check it and top it off. We're going to put the cap back on, push it down, twist, lock it in place. I want to pump the brake pedal fairly slowly.

You don't want to do it too fast. I'll pump it about three or four times. You want to make sure there's no air in the line, especially close to the bleeder, and we can close the bleeder up. Just like that. Snug that up. We can take this off. And that's how you can bleed the brakes by yourself. Right, now we're going to install the tire and the lug nuts. Use the socket and snug these down. And we're going to lower the vehicle and torque the wheel. Now we're going to torque these lug nuts down. We're going to use a 19mm socket and this torque wrench. We sell this torque wrench at 1AAuto.com. We're going to torque it at 80 foot pounds in a star pattern. You want to do it in a star pattern so that the wheel gets torqued evenly.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.


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