How to Replace Rear Wheel Backing Plate 2005-11 Honda Civic

Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!

We'll take our 19-millimeter socket and breaker bar, and while the vehicle's on the ground, we'll loosen our lug nuts. Raise and support the vehicle. With the lug nuts loose, I can just take the socket and finish taking them off. Lug nuts loose, we can take the wheel off, and tire, and put it aside.

Before you remove the caliper, you need to unbolt the rubber brake line from this bracket here, so you have more space to move the caliper. I'm going to spray some rust penetrant on the backside of it. A little bit here. This is a 12-millimeter bolt, we'll use a socket and ratchet to remove it. Get the bolt out, get the hose out of the bracket.

Before you remove the lower and upper caliper slide bolts, make sure the E-brake is released, because the parking brake or E-brake on this car works through the caliper, so if it's tight and pulled, you're not going to be able to remove this caliper because it's going to be gripping the brake pads to the rotor, so just make sure that's released first.

These are 12-millimeter bolts, and they also need to counter hold the slide pins. These are 17-millimeter. Using a 12-millimeter box wrench to release these. For that one, I didn't need to counter hold the slide pin, it didn't turn. We'll leave that in there and then work on the top one. Remove the bolts.

I have a bungee cord ready. I'm going to hang this caliper up on the spring. You may need a large flat-bladed screwdriver or a small pry-bar, and just pop this caliper up and off. Bungee cord. Hold that off to the side. Pop our old brake pads out of here with the pry-bar. And remove the lower and upper caliper bracket bolts.

These are 14-millimeter. Use a 14-millimeter box wrench. They can be on there pretty hard. I'm going to use a dead blow mallet to tap on the wrench to break it free. We'll work on the top one the same way. With those loosened, I'm going to switch to a ratcheting wrench to make this a little quicker. The top bolt removed, pull the caliper bracket off and put that aside. Push in on these plastic tabs behind this. This is the wheel speed sensor. It’s clipped to this bracket. Push in on the locks, the plastic tabs. Slide that out.

So I basically just squeezed those down. Now I'm going to remove the 10-millimeter bolt, and pull the speed sensor out of the rear knuckle. 10-millimeter socket and ratchet. Thread that right out. Get the speed sensor out of here. Got to wiggle it back and forth. Try not to pull on the wires, just work it back and forth, and pull it out. Double rubber seal, and just place this aside.

We need to remove the retaining screws that are holding the brake rotor on. Spray a little rust penetrant in here. You need a big Phillips head screwdriver. Problem is, when you go to turn it, it's going to want to turn the whole rotor.

I'm going to throw a couple lug nuts on here. Take our pry-bar, and kind of hold it and turn. I'm going to have someone help me and hold these with a long breaker bar, and then if you've got a decent screwdriver, you can actually put a wrench on here sometimes, give you extra leverage.

Set up, and try to turn this off. Push in, turn, just like that. Let's try this one. If you wreck these taking them out, I wouldn't worry about putting them back in. All they do is hold the rotor against the hub while your, when you've got the wheel off the car, whatever, it just keeps it from being loose, but you could use lug nuts to hold it in place while you reinstall the brake parts. I wouldn't worry about it.

Now I have to take off these lug nuts I was using. The rotor is now loose. Be careful not to drop it. The hub assembly is bolted through the knuckle from the back, so you can see the ends of the bolts here. So since I can see them, I'm going to spray them with some rust penetrant. 14-millimeter head on these four bolts that are holding in the hub. There's one here, the other two are down at the bottom. I'm going to use a 14-millimeter socket and a breaker bar, and start removing these.

Now I've broken them loose. I'm just going to switch to a ratcheting wrench to make it a little quicker. Hub is actually already loose from the knuckle, which is good, it hasn't seized in here so I'm going to finish removing all the bolts. If this had seized in here, my plan was, I've got these bolts backed out a bit with some space. I was going to actually get a punch and a hammer and tap on these bolts and help push the knuckle out of here.

But since it came free, I didn't have to do that. The hub and bearing is loose so I'm holding it so it doesn't fall. Pull it right out. It's a rubber O-ring on here, just make sure that O-ring came out with this, because that needs to be replaced when you replace the hub and bearing. If your backing plate is all rotted for some reason and you need to replace it, you'd have to have the knuckle and the hub and bearing out. Just take a little bit of rust penetrant, because these bolts are slightly rusty. They are 10-millimeter bolts. Using a 10-millimeter socket, break these free. Pull your dust shield right off.

If you needed to replace this knuckle, you could swap over the dust shield. Now you can see where the hub and bearing goes. This opening right here is where your wheel speed sensor goes. Nothing wrong with this backing plate, so we're just going to reinstall it. Bolts back into the knuckle, just tighten them up. These are small steel bolts going into aluminum, so you don't have to over-tighten them, just get them snug. That's reinstalled. I'm just going to take a rag and just make sure there's no dirt in here. I don't want to tear up the O-ring seal.

Then when you install it, two of these holes are a little offset from the other holes, and that should match on the hub. So we'll say it goes in this way. Put it in place. Should be pretty clear if the holes don't line up. They do. Just to capture these bolts. Now I'll capture the other three bolts. Now I'm going to take a socket and ratchet to just snug these down before I torque them. Torque these to 47 foot-pounds. In here at the hub, and then we'll install it into the hub. Now just reinstall the bolt. Very little torque on these, about 7 foot-pounds, so really just hand-tight, just like that.

I'm going to line up the countersunk holes with those threaded holes there. Line them up. If you've got these screws you can install them, if not, you can leave them off. You can just put a lug nut on here to hold it tight until you get the whole brake assembly back on. We'll put them back in. Just snug them down, they don't have to be super tight. Al they do is keep the rotor from moving around when you're installing all the brake parts, and taking the tire off, the wheel and tire on and off. Reinstall the bracket. Place it over the rotor. Capture top bolts. You might have to move the bracket around to get to line up. Thread it in. Capture the bottom one. I'm just going to switch to a ratcheting wrench, so I can finish installing them, and then I'll torque them afterwards.

I'm going to torque the caliper bracket bolts to 54 foot-pounds. I'm just going to make sure that the brake pad surface is clean, just hit it with some brake parts cleaner. You don't want to have any grease or dirt on there. Take a little bit of brake caliper grease, put it on the ears. Don't have to go crazy with this stuff. This is going to be the inside pad, it has the wear indicator on it. It's going to sit in here just like this. Repeat that for the outer pad. Take our bungee cord off. Don't forget to take it out of here. Place the brake caliper back onto the bracket.

Going to reinstall the bolts. Tighten this one up. It might get to a point where you're trying to tighten these caliper side bolts, then they'll start to spin on the slides. The slides are 17-millimeter, use that to counter hold it. I'm just using a 12-millimeter socket and ratchet, and I'm just going to tighten this up. The torque on these is 17 foot-pounds, pretty light. I'm just going to do it by hand. Just repeat that for the top one. This bleeder screw makes it a little tricky to get a box wrench in here, but the socket and ratchet works perfectly. Don't forget, after you're done putting the brakes back together, put the bolt back in holding your rubber brake hose. Tighten that down.

Put the wheel back on the car. One of the lugs caught, get them caught by hand first. We'll torque them with the vehicle weight on it, when it's on the ground. Really just need to bring them down until they're seated. The vehicle on the ground, the lug nut torque is 79.6 foot-pounds, so we're going to do it to 80. Do this on a cross pattern.

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How to Replace Rear Wheel Backing Plate 2005-11 Honda Civic

step 1 :Removing the Wheel

step 2 :Removing the Brake Pads

step 3 :Removing the Brake Rotor

step 4 :Removing the Hub Assembly

step 5 :Removing the Dust Shield

step 6 :Installing the Dust Shield

step 7 :Installing the Hub Assembly

step 8 :Installing the New Brake Rotor

step 9 :Preparing the New Brake Pads and Rotors

step 10 :Reattaching the Wheel

Tools needed

Under the Hood Basics Learn About the Stuff Under Your Cars Hood

How to Replace Rear Wheel Backing Plate 2005-11 Honda Civic

step 1 :Removing the Wheel 0:29

step 2 :Removing the Brake Pads 0:49

step 3 :Removing the Brake Rotor 3:05

step 4 :Removing the Hub Assembly 6:25

step 5 :Removing the Dust Shield 7:59

step 6 :Installing the Dust Shield 8:59

step 7 :Installing the Hub Assembly 9:20

step 8 :Installing the New Brake Rotor 10:10

step 9 :Preparing the New Brake Pads and Rotors 11:08

step 10 :Reattaching the Wheel 13:33

Tools needed

Under the Hood Basics Learn About the Stuff Under Your Cars Hood

step 1 :Removing the Wheel

step 2 :Removing the Brake Pads

step 3 :Removing the Brake Rotor

step 4 :Removing the Hub Assembly

step 5 :Removing the Dust Shield

step 6 :Installing the Dust Shield

step 7 :Installing the Hub Assembly

step 8 :Installing the New Brake Rotor

step 9 :Preparing the New Brake Pads and Rotors

step 10 :Reattaching the Wheel