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How to Replace Rear Wheel Hub Assembly 2005-09 Subaru Outback

Created on: 2018-05-21

How to repair, install, fix, change or replace a worn out, vibrating or groaning rear wheel bearing hub on 05, 06, 07, 08, 09 Subaru Outback

  1. step 1 :Removing the Wheel
    • Loosen the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and breaker bar
    • Raise and support the vehicle
    • Remove the lug nuts
    • Pull the wheel off the studs
  2. step 2 :Removing the Brake Pads
    • Loosen the two slide bolts from the caliper with a 14mm wrench
    • Remove the slide bolts
    • Compress the brake pad into the piston with a flat blade screwdriver
    • Swing the caliper around and off the brake pads
    • Remove the brake pads from the caliper bracket with a flat blade screwdriver
    • Remove the two 19mm bolts from the caliper bracket
    • Pull the caliper bracket off
    • Remove the brake rotor
  3. step 3 :Removing the Axle Nut
    • Insert a punch into the axle nut
    • Tap the bunch with a hammer to release the nut
    • Remove the center cap from the wheel
    • Place the wheel onto the hub and secure the lug nuts by hand
    • Lower the vehicle to the ground
    • Secure the rotor with a pry bar
    • Loosen the 32mm axle nut
    • Raise and support the vehicle
    • Remove the lug nuts
    • Remove the wheel
  4. step 4 :Removing the Hub
    • Remove the 10mm bolt from the speed sensor
    • Pry the sensor up
    • Remove the four 14mm bolts from behind the wheel bearing
    • Pull the hub out
    • Tap the hub out from the backing shield a rubber mallet if needed
  5. step 5 :Installing the Hub
    • Clean off the mating surface with rust penetrant and a wire brush
    • Insert the hub into place
    • Gently tap the hub into place with a rubber mallet
    • Gently tighten the bolts
    • Torque the bolts 47.9 foot-pounds
    • Place the wheel onto the hub and secure the lug nuts by hand
    • Lower the vehicle to the ground
    • Tighten the axle nut
    • Torque the axle nut to 177 foot-pounds
    • Raise and support the vehicle
    • Remove the lug nuts
    • Remove the wheel
    • Insert the speed sensor into place
    • Tighten the 10mm bolt to the sensor
  6. step 6 :Installing the Brake Rotor
    • Slide the rotor backwards onto the hub
    • Spray the rotor with brake parts cleaner and a rag
    • Turn the rotor over and spray the front with brake parts cleaner
    • Slide the rotor onto the hub
  7. step 7 :Installing the Brake Pads
    • Line up the caliper bracket on the wheel
    • Start the 19mm bolts for the caliper bracket
    • Torque the caliper bracket bolts to 47.9 foot-pounds
    • Clean the brake pads with brake parts cleaner
    • Apply caliper grease to the brake pad ears
    • Place the brake pads into the caliper bracket
    • Pull the bungee cord off the brake caliper
    • Put an old brake pad in the caliper
    • Compress the caliper piston with the old brake pad and a C-clamp
    • Swing the caliper onto the caliper bracket
    • Insert the bolts into the caliper
    • Torque the slide bolts to 19 foot-pounds
    • Tap the axle nut down into the axle divot with a hammer and punch to secure it
  8. step 8 :Installing the Wheel
    • Slide the wheel onto the studs
    • Start the lug nuts by hand
    • Lower the vehicle to the ground
    • Torque the lug nuts to 90 foot-pounds
    • Pump the brake pedal until the brakes feel firm

Tools needed

  • 32mm Socket

    Socket Extensions

    Flat Blade Screwdriver

    Torque Wrench

    Rust Penetrant

    Channel-Lock Pliers

    Pry Bar

    19mm Socket

    Bungee Cord

    Anti-Seize Grease

    10mm Socket

    Ratchet

Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!

In this video, we will be removing and replacing a rear wheel bearing and hub assembly in a 2008 Subaru Outback. I'm going to take off the lug nuts. Use a 19mm socket and a breaker bar. I'm just going to crack them loose before we lift the vehicle off the ground. Then I'll take the lug nuts out. Put them aside. Grab the wheel and pull it off.

All right, we're going to take the caliper off. To do that, we're going to take these two 14mm bolts out. We're going to use a 14mm wrench and take the bolt out. Now, when you're taking this bolt out, if this stud is spinning, you can hold it with some Channellock pliers then take it out.

Before we take this bolt out, we're going to break free the top too. Now we can take them both out. If this caliper is really tight, take a screwdriver and pry it against the rotor. Squeeze the piston down a little bit, and you can pull it right out. Take a bungee cord, wrap it around the spring, and the caliper's out of the way and secure. We can pull our pads off.

To take these caliper bracket bolts out, I'm going to use a 14mm socket on an extension. Pull that out, and then we're going to pull the rotor off. Our rotor is nice and loose. If your rotor was stuck on there, you can use a hammer and hit on all this surface right here. You will also have some areas where you could put a couple bolts, where you could push the bolts in and tap it, and that'll help you take the rotor off.

I'm going to pull the axle nut out, but before we do that, there's a little lock right here, so I'm going to take a little punch and a hammer and try to move it out of the way. That moved it a little bit.

Next we're going to take this off with a 32mm socket to get the axle nut free. All right, we're going to drop it down so that we can get the hub closer to the ground, because we're going to put a pry bar in between the lugs. That'll keep it from spinning. Then we're going to take our breaker bar. I'm not going to use this. And then break the nut free. There you go. Now it's free. And it's free. Take a punch. We're going to use a hammer and tap the axle in so it's loose.

To take this speed sensor out, take a 10mm socket and an extension and a ratchet. I'm pulling the speed sensor out so that it doesn't get in the way when pulling the hub out, because you could break it. Now I'm going to pull the sensor out. You can, to break it free a little bit, take a little screwdriver and just get next to it. Just wiggle it a little bit. These sensors are very sensitive and can break easily, so we'll get that and pull it out of our way. I'm going to spray a little bit of rust penetrant on the bolts. Be careful not to get any on the parking brake shoes. And right there, that's good. If it drips down and is on the metal part of the parking brake shoes, that's okay. Just, you don't want it on the fiber part. And spray a little bit on the back side, just on the bolts.

We're going to take the hub bolts out. I'm going to use a 14mm socket, a long extension, and a ratchet. Get a longer extension for this top one here. Once we get those all out, we can take the hub off. I'm just going to loosely put this nut on the outside so if it does start coming out. It won't just fall on the ground.

Now, I'm going to put some of the bolts in from the back side, just loosely, and then I'm going to take a long punch and a hammer to try to tap it forward. There it goes. It's loose now. Take these bolts back out. We can pull our hub off. In this case, the backing shield came with the hub. Take a hammer and just knock it out.

Here's our old part. Here's our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, they're machined the same. The reluctor ring on the back is the same. The front, the stud configuration is the same. The bore is the same. Everything looks good. Get your part at 1AAuto.com, and you'll be ready to rock and roll.

Before we put our new hub in, we're going to take a wire brush and just clean this up a little bit. It'll make going in a little bit easier. Putting our parking brake setup back. Slide our new hub in. Just put the nut on the outside to hold it. Now, while holding the hub from the outside, I'm going to take our 14mm bolts and screw them in from the back side. Try to get the two corner ones lined up, and the other two will come easier. I'm going to snug these all down evenly, then we're going to torque them.

I'm going to torque these bolts to 47.9 foot-pounds. I'm going to tighten our axle nut, and then take our pry bar, stick it on this side, and have it right up against the ground. We're going to take our torque wrench, and I'm going to torque this nut to 177 foot-pounds. Do that one more time. Good.

I'm going to install our speed sensor. Need to put back in the hole, then get our 10mm bolt in there and tighten it down. Get our extension and our ratchet and our 10mm socket, and snug it down.

First, before we install the rotor, we're going to put it on backwards so we can take some brake parts cleaner and clean the back side of the rotor. Then we want to wipe it off. When they make these rotors, they put a protective coating on them so they don't rust on the shelf. All right. I'm going to spray Brakleen on this side, and wipe it down.

Install our caliper bracket. Take the bolts and put them in from the backside. I'm going to torque these bolts for this caliper bracket to 47.9 foot-pounds. Take some brake caliper and brake pad grease, put it on the ears of the pads, and we're going to put a little bit on the surface here. Be careful. Don't get it on your fingers. We're going to slide that in, in the back side. There we go. Do the same with the front one. Put a little bit on the ears, and then put a little on the face, and install that. It's ready.

Get the bungee cord off of the caliper. Then you want to compress the piston. We're going to use some Channellock pliers. You can use a C-clamp or a brake caliper tool. When it's all the way down, then we're going to reinstall the brake caliper. Install the brake caliper bolts. I'm going to torque these bolts to 19 foot-pounds. Think this one I can just do this right on top. After we tighten this nut for the axle, we can take a punch and a hammer and you can chisel this down. It's to make it so it will not spin. It's just a lock. That's good.

Install our tire. Put the lug nuts on. With a torque wrench, we're going to torque the lug nuts down to 90 foot-pounds, going in a star pattern. You want to go in a star pattern so that you torque the wheel to the hub evenly. There you go. And before you drive away, you're going to want to make sure that you pump the brake pedal slowly, multiple times, because there'll be an air gap between brake pads and the caliper, so when you pump it, it will push the fluid back to the caliper and compress the brake pads.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.

2005 - 2009  Subaru  Legacy
2005 - 2009  Subaru  Outback
2012 - 2014  Subaru  Impreza
2014 - 2014  Subaru  XV Crosstrek
2014 - 2014  Subaru  Impreza
2013 - 2013  Subaru  XV Crosstrek
2014 - 2014  Subaru  Forester
2012 - 2013  Subaru  Impreza
2005 - 2014  Subaru  Outback
2009 - 2013  Subaru  Forester
2005 - 2014  Subaru  Legacy

05-12 Subaru Legacy, Outback Front Wheel Hub & Bearing LF = RF

Subaru Front Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly TRQ BHA54042

Part Details:
  • 2.2 in
  • 124 mm
  • 27
  • 4
  • 100 mm
  • 2.28 in
  • 5
  • No
  • Yes
  • Square/Modified
  • 4.88 in
  • No
  • 3.94 in
  • 56 mm
  • 58 mm
  • M12x1.25
  • Ball
  • Gen 3
$74.95

How to Replace Front Wheel Bearing 2000-06 Toyota Tundra

How to repair, install, fix, change or replace a worn out, vibrating or groaning wheel bearing hub on 00, 01, 02, 03, 04, 05, 06 Toyota Tundra

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