Created on: 2016-08-17
If the outer tie rod is loose or damaged, this video will show how to replace it, including torque sequences
24mm Wrench
Socket Extensions
Torque Wrench
Jack Stands
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
22mm Socket
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the outer tie rod end on this 2008 Dodge Ram 1500. This is for a non-mega cab truck. We're doing the passenger side, but this information will be exactly the same on the driver's side.
Here are the item's you'll need for this repair: 22-27mm socket, 1/2 breaker bar, ratchet, socket extensions, breaker bar, 24mm wrench, torque wrench, jack and jack stands.
With the vehicle on the ground, using a 22mm socket and a breaker bar, break the lug nuts for your wheel loose. These chrome lug nuts tend to be swollen, so make sure your socket's on there good. Once your lug nuts are loose, raise and support the vehicle with a jack and jack stands.
This wheel and tire assembly, being a big off road tire and 20 inch wheel, it's going to be real heavy, so we're only going to bring it up a little bit when we take it off. Remove the wheel and tie from the hub.
The tie rod end is located at the end of the inner tie rod and bolts into this spindle. We're going to use a 24mm wrench to break the lock nut loose just a little. Use a 22mm deep socket and a ratchet to remove the nut on the bottom. Going to hit the side of the spindle to release the tie rod. After a few good hits, should be able to knock it out of the spindle. Remove the tie rod end from the spindle and unthread it from the inner tie rod.
Here we have our old part that we removed from our 2008 Dodge Ram. Here we have our new tie rod end from 1AAuto, part number 1ASTE00402. As you can see, they're very similar, some minor differences in the aesthetics, but the actual stud to go into the spindle is correct. They have the same size threads. They're the same length. Our new part comes with a castle nut and a cotter pin, which is more secure than the factory flange nut.
Some symptoms of a bad tie rod end can be play in the steering wheel. Could also cause an unusual tire wear pattern or you can feel that you may need to use a lot more force than you're used to when trying to turn the wheel. If your vehicle is suffering from any of these symptoms and you've deduced that it's the tie rod end, this new part from 1AAuto is going to go in, direct-fit, just like your original equipment, and fix you up right.
Thread the new tie rod end onto the inner tie rod. We'll reinstall it into the spindle. Start the new castle nut on, tighten it down with a 27mm socket and ratchet. Torque to 45 foot-pounds, then add an additional 90 degrees. Install the cotter pin, then the long tab down under the bottom of the bolt. Cut the short end off flush.
Using a 24mm wrench, tighten the lock nut on the inner tie rod back against your outer tie rod end. Start your lug nuts by hand. Tighten the lugs as far as you can. Remember to bring the wheel down evenly and always tighten in a cross pattern. Once the lugs are as tight as you can get them with the tire in the air, put partial weight of the vehicle on the ground by lowering it off your jack stands. Torque your lug nuts to 135 foot-pounds in a cross pattern. Bring the vehicle for a professional alignment.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.