How To Replace Toyota Tundra Timing Belt 2002 V8 Disassemble Front of Engine PART 2 1A Auto
Created on: 2011-09-09
This is part 2 of a video on how to replace the timing belt and water pump on your 00-09 Toyota Tundra.
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step 1 :Beginning the Repair
- This is Part 2 of a two part video
- Please consult Part 1 for earlier instructions
- Perform the steps outlined in Pat 1
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step 2 :Positioning the Engine
- Use a 22mm socket to turn the crank pulley and rotate the engine into the correct position
- The white mark on the crank pulley should line up with the 0 marker
- The indentation of the passenger side (right) cam should line up with the timing mark
- The indentation of the driver side (left) cam should line up with the timing mark
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step 3 :Removing the Harmonic Balancer
- Remember to put aside any parts you remove in an organized fashion
- Use a 22mm socket and an impact wrench to remove the crank pulley nut
- Bolt the harmonic balancer puller to the harmonic balancer
- Tighten the bolts 5 or 6 turns
- The bolts should be visible on the back side of the harmonic balancer
- Thread the larger bolt into the harmonic balance bolt
- Pull off the harmonic balancer
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step 4 :Removing the Crank Sensor Ring
- Remove the four 10mm bolts from the crank shield
- Remove the crank sensor ring
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step 5 :Removing the Old Belt
- Remove the 12mm bolts from the belt tensioner
- Pull off the tensioner
- Pull the crank position sensor wire aside as necessary
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step 6 :Removing the Pulleys
- Remove the 13mm bolt from the tensioner pulley
- Remove the tensioner pulley
- Remove the 14mm bolt from the idler pulley
- Remove the idler puller
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step 7 :Removing the Water Pump
- Remove the studs/bolts from the water pump using a 12mm wrench
- Remove the remaining bolts
- Make sure all the bolts are removed
- Carefully pry the water pump off using a screwdriver
- Carefully pull off the water pump gasket, keeping the rubber in one piece
- Scrape off any residue or dirt with a razor blade
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step 8 :Installing the New Water Pump
- Slide the new gasket into place
- Remove the o-ring
- Install the new o-ring
- Slide on the new water pump
- Move the cam sensor wire aside as necessary
- Install and hand tighten the water pump fasteners
- Use the socket to tighten the fasteners
- Tighten opposite fasteners in order
- Use a torque wrench to tighten the fasteners to 17 foot-pounds of torque
- Reinstall the plastic block-off plate
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step 9 :Installing the new Tensioner
- Install the tensioner spacer
- Install the tensioner
- Thread the tensioner bolt
- Tighten the tensioner bolt with a 3/8 inch Allen wrench
- Make sure the tensioner pivots freely
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step 10 :Installing the New Idler Pulley
- Install the new idler pulley
- Begin threading the bolt by hand
- Tighten the bolt with a 14mm socket
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step 11 :Installing the New Timing Belt
- The timing belt has three markers: CR, R-CAM, and L-CAM
- See [3:37] for more information
- Line up the CR marker with the white dot on the crank
- Line up the L-CAM marker with the timing marker on the left cam
- Line up the R-CAM marker with the timing marker on the right cam
- Wrap the belt around the crank and left cam
- Lightly pull the left cam as you stretch the belt onto the right cam
- Push the belt onto the right cam
- Check that all the timing markers are lined up
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step 12 :Reinstalling Other Timing Parts
- Reinstall the tensioner
- Reinstall the crank sensor wheel and crank shield
- Reinstall the harmonic balancer and crank pulley
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step 13 :Checking the Timing System
- Check that all the timing marks line up properly
- Turn the crank pulley with a socket and breaker bar to rotate the engine
- Make sure the timing marks still line up properly
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step 14 :Reinstalling the Other Engine Parts
- Reinstall parts to the front of the engine by reversing the steps outlined in Part 1
Tools needed
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20mm Socket
Razor Blade / Gasket Scraper
Socket Extensions
Jack Stands
10mm Wrench
3/8 Inch Allen Wrench
22mm Wrench
Drain Pan
Ratchet
Floor Jack
11mm Wrench
12mm Wrench
13mm Wrench
11mm Socket
14mm Wrench
12mm Socket
13mm Socket
15mm Wrench
14mm Socket
Torque Wrench
16mm Wrench
17mm Wrench
15mm Socket
18mm Wrench
16mm Socket
17mm Socket
19mm Wrench
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
21mm Socket
21mm wrench
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Harmonic Balancer Puller
Phillips Head Screwdriver
Harmonic Balancer Holding Tool
10mm Socket
Slip-Joint Pliers
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
22mm Socket
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Okay, so we're picking up from Part 1. In Part 1, we showed you basically how to remove the radiator, fan and pretty much everything off the front of the engine and now we're picking up here. We now need to position the engine correctly so we can take the timing belt off.
You want to use a 22mm socket and rotate the engine so that this mark right here is lined up with the zero; this mark right here, the red, actually that little indentation, is lined up with that timing mark right there; and the same thing on this side, the red is lined up with that timing mark. Next we want to loosen the bolt on our crank pulley. This is a 22mm; the best way is with an impact wrench. You need a special tool if you don't have an impact wrench. But really, you want to have either an impact wrench or a friend with an impact wrench because it is the easiest way to get it off there. Once it's loosened, put it back on a little bit. Next, you are going to remove the harmonic balancer with a harmonic balancer puller. Here's a picture of it. I didn't do a very good job of showing it in the video so I just wanted to show it to you here. You bolt the bracket on. There are bolts inset down into the harmonic balancer; if you stick your finger in there you'll feel them. You bolt it in with two bolts. Make sure that you put them in enough. They probably need to go in about five or six turns. If you look on the back of the balancer you will actually see the bolts coming back out on the other side. Then the large threaded bolt goes in the middle with the pointed tip between. It sets into the harmonic balancer bolt. You thread that in and as you tighten it, it will pull the balancer off. Actually, on this vehicle it didn't take much to get the balancer off at all. Once the balancer's off, there are four 10mm bolts that hold the shield that goes right around the crank. Just another reminder, as you're taking stuff apart lay it out neatly and basically kind of in order of how you take it off with all the hardware, it just makes it easier to put it back together. Now remove the crank sensor ring and put it with the harmonic balancer.
We are already familiar with the timing marks on the cam sprockets on the top. Down on the crank you'll see a white dot on that gear. That white dot is an alignment mark as well. Don't confuse it with the threaded hole; you want the white dot there.
Our new belt has three marks on it: CR, so that gets aligned with that dot on the crank; and then right cam which is the right cam, or R-CAM is the right cam, or the passenger side cam; and L-CAM is the driver's side cam. Right here is my tensioner; it's held on by a couple of 12mm bolts. The timing belt can come off of that tensioner. You can pull the timing belt off. Just one note as I pull the timing belt off: notice that cam wire, that cam position wire, or crank position wire, is inside the belt.
I am going to remove the idler pulleys and the tensioner pulley. The tensioner side is a 13mm or you can just use the Allen wrench and remove the whole assembly, and then the idler side is a 14mm. Now we're going to undo the bolts for the water pump. There are two stud/bolts that are 12mm that you have to use a wrench on and then five other bolts for the water pump; and yes, as you can see, I did do it out of order a little bit because the pulleys are still on there; but you remove those bolts and then you are ready to take the water pump off.
Now you are going to pull the water pump off. Go carefully. If you pull on it or use a screwdriver and pry it a little bit and it moves but doesn't seem to be coming off, just make sure you did get all the bolts. They are sometimes a little hard to see but it has some protrusions and stuff on it and eventually you should be able to shake it, pull it and it comes off. I am showing this not in fast motion, just real time. The gasket is a combination of metal and a rubber adhered to it. What you want to do, is pull it off carefully because you want that rubber basically to come off all in one piece. You can see here that I am really working it slowly and pulling the rubber off in all the little places. That just makes it easier; you don't have to scrape as much stuff off to prepare it. Here, I'm using a razor blade holder and a nice fresh razor blade, and scraping off any residue and dirt. You don't have to worry too much about dirt, you don't want to get dirt all over the place but this is kind of an open area of the engine. It doesn't get into the engine or anything like that so if you get a little dirt here and there, it's not going to be the end of the world, but the better you prepare this surface, the better it will seal and you won't have to worry about any leaks in your engine.
The kit from 1AAuto comes with a brand new gasket. You do not RTV this gasket. You can see it's an aluminum gasket with a rubber seal around it. We are going to put that like so. Here's an O-ring. Pull the old one off, the kit comes with a new O-ring. Here's the new water pump. Make sure nothing gets stuck in behind. Fast forward as I slide it on there. There is a little wire hanging down from one of the cam sensors on the, as I'm looking at it, on the right side. You'll see me kind of fiddle with it here. You just have to push that wire up and out of the way before the water pump slides all the way in. Keeping the speed going, I'm just installing all the fasteners for the water pump and kind of hand tightening them at first, using my fingers and then using the extension and socket. When you go to tighten them, you want to tighten them evenly. To do that, basically just alternate, so if you do a top one, do a bottom one afterwards, if you do a side one, do the other side after. Then at the end, you will want to use a torque wrench. These fasteners, you basically want to torque to 17 foot-pounds. Next, reinstall the little plastic block-off plate.
Make sure you install your spacer when you install the tensioner. We will speed it up again here as we just thread that bolt in and then tighten it up with the 3/8 inch Allen wrench. Just a quick test to make sure that pivots nice and freely. Now I will install a new idler pulley that comes in the kit and fast forward through getting that on and tightening it up. At this point, we are ready to put in our timing belt. I've got the belt lined up on my crankshaft. I've got my left cam lined up over here and I'm going to pull my right cam back just a little bit. I've got my mark line there and I'm going to lightly just pull my left cam and get some tension. I just rotated that just a little bit. I'm pulling on my left cam here just a little. Now I am just shoving my belt around the crank pulley here, around the crank shaft pulley here. Pull it off just a little bit. I pushed it on, and push it on down here. I'm on and lined up there; I'm on and lined up there. My crank pulley is on the mark. A very good sign after everything is installed. At zero, my timing mark is lined up and my timing mark is lined up.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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