How To Replace Water Pump 1997-2004 Ford F150
Created on: 2017-07-07
This video will show how to drain and refill the coolant and how to remove the serpentine belt, cooling fan, and other parts to replace the water pump
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step 1 :Draining the Coolant
- Pull back on the inner fender
- Place a hose on the drain insert
- Place a drain pan beneath the hose
- Loosen the drain plug with a 19mm wrench
- Let the coolant drain
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step 2 :Removing the Radiator Shield
- Remove the spark tire jack crank
- Pry up the clips along the radiator shield with a Phillips screwdriver and flat blade screwdriver
- Remove the clips
- Remove the radiator shield
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step 3 :Removing the Air Intake
- Remove the two 10mm bolts from the throttle body cover
- Lift the cover
- Loosen the hose clamp on the air intake near the throttle body
- Disconnect the breather hoses
- Lift the intake tubing
- Loosen the latch on the housing
- Disconnect the two sensors on the air intake
- Lift the air intake up and out
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step 4 :Removing the Fan
- Insert a fan removal tool to the fan pulley bolts
- Loosen the fan clutch with the tool and a ratchet
- Spin the fan and nut off of the pulley
- Remove the fan
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step 5 :Removing the Radiator Hose and Fan Shroud
- Loosen the radiator hose clamp with pliers
- Remove the 8mm bolts from the fan shroud
- Lift the fan shroud up and out
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step 6 :Removing the Serpentine Belt
- Familiarize yourself with the route of the serpentine belt
- Insert a 1/4 inch breaker bar into the tensioner
- Turn the tensioner clockwise to loosen the belt
- Pull the belt off a pulley
- Release the tensioner slowly
- Pull the belt off by hand
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step 7 :Removing the Water Pump
- Loosen the four 10mm bolts from the pulley
- Pry off the pulley
- Have a drain pan ready
- Remove the four 13mm bolts from the pump
- Pry the water pump off of the engine
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step 8 :Installing the Water Pump
- Press the new o-ring on
- Remove the shipping protector
- Clean off the mating surface
- Lace motor oil around the O-ring
- Insert the pump to the engine
- Tighten the four 13mm bolts to the pump
- Torque the bolts to 15 to 22 foot-pounds
- Press the pulley to the water pump
- Tighten the bolts 15 to 22 foot-pounds
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step 9 :Reinstalling the Serpentine Belt
- Loop the belt down between the idler and tensioner pulleys
- Loop the belt around the A/C Pulley
- Bring it over the tensioner
- Bring it underneath and around the crankshaft pulley
- Bring it up and over the water pump pulley
- Bring it under the idler pulley
- Pull the belt down and over the alternator
- Pull the tensioner clockwise with the 1/2 inch ratchet/breaker bar
- Bring it around the power steering pulley
- Release the tensioner
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step 10 :Installing the Radiator Hose and Fan Shroud
- Feed the shroud and fan down in together
- Spin the fan onto the pulley a few threads
- Tighten the 8mm bolts to the fan shroud
- Tighten the hose clamps to the upper radiator hose
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step 11 :Installing the Fan
- Tighten the fan with the special tools
- Hold the pulley and tighten the fan in
- Torque the fan to 40 foot-pounds
- Connect the upper radiator hose
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step 12 :Installing the Air Intake
- Insert the air intake into place
- Close the housing hatch
- Connect the two sensor
- Connect the two breather hoses
- Tighten the hose clamp to the air intake hose
- Place the throttle body cover over the throttle body
- Tighten the two 10mm bolts to the cover
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step 13 :Reinstalling the Radiator Cover
- Place the radiator cover on
- Press the clips in
- Push in the center of the clip to lock
- Insert the jack handle into place
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Do not open the coolant overflow bottle while the engine's hot
step 14 :Refilling the Coolant
- Remove the coolant overflow bottle cap
- Refill the coolant with the appropriate fluid
- Run the engine and keep the coolant at the fill line
- Place the cap on the bottle
- Let the engine heat up and cycle a few times
- Turn off the engine, let it cool, and refill as necessary
Tools needed
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Socket Extensions
Torque Wrench
Rust Penetrant
Channel-Lock Pliers
Pry Bar
Complete Metric Wrench Set
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Phillips Head Screwdriver
Fan Clutch Wrench
Drain Pan
Ratchet
Wire Brush
Needle nose pliers
Complete Metric Socket Set
Hi. I'm Mike, from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years. We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by 100% satisfaction guarantee. So visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
Radiator drain you can access from your passenger's front wheel well. Pull back on the inner fender. It's here. Now, you're looking at it from the middle of the vehicle. There's a nipple to put a hose on on the outside, so we'll put a rubber hose on. Put the rubber hose on, now you put your drain pan under. Put the hose right in to your drain pan. 19 mm wrench, and you should be able to break it free pretty easily and then turn it with your hand counterclockwise. Your coolant should start to drain out. Then loosen the radiator cap and let it drain. Once it's done draining, turn it clockwise to close it.
We're going to remove this whole panel, so we'll start by taking off the spare tire jack crank. Take that off, and now there's a series of clips. They have Phillips head screws in 'em. We'll show you how to get 'em out. There's four across the front, two more -- which are missing on this vehicle -- and then there's two clips back here, which are a different style, although I'm sure they should be this Phillips screw style.
So, the way these should come out is you turn 'em counterclockwise and very lightly almost pull up on the screwdriver while you're doing it so they come out. Then, once you have that out, whole clip will come up and out. You may run in to them where they don't want to come out that easily. In that case, you'll probably need a little 90 degree pick tool, although sometimes you can get a fingernail under there, but what you'll probably have to do is get a pick tool right in underneath just to pry up a little bit while you turn it. Then pull it out.
These ones back here are a different style. You pry up, pull the center up and pull it out, although I'm pretty sure these should be the Phillips screw style. Once you have all the clips off, panel lifts up and off. Now, remove this cover. Two 10 mm bolts on this side, and one over on the passenger's side. Remove those, 10 mm socket and ratchet. Loosen the throttle body clamp with a flat blade screwdriver, and just pull up and down on the whole ducting. There are tubes that go on the side. Once you pull off the throttle body, you can twist a little bit and pull those tubes free.
Clamp for the air filter, pull those off and there's two connectors. One, easy to see here. Press down on the tab and disconnect. You may press on the tab. Use your screwdriver, pry a little bit to help loosen it up. Connector's off, then there's another connector. Press the tab and disconnect and the intake tube comes up and out.
To remove the fan, you want to have fan removal tools. This is designed to go onto the bolts that hold the fan pulley on. It holds, once you get it on there correctly, it can hold the pulley bolts with that. Then a 36 millimeter wrench goes onto the bolt. Then you can use a ratchet for some more leverage. Once you break it free then your fan will spin right off. Then just get around the radiator hose. Up and out.
Pair of pliers and loosen the radiator hose clamp. Pull it back and you let it go and twist the hose to break it free and remove it. Now there's an eight millimeter bolt here, and one pretty much in the same location on the other side—remove those. We can lift our fan shroud up and out. Eight millimeter socket with a ratchet and extension will remove—hem those bolts out and the fan off. You can pull your shroud up and out. Ours is broken, because this vehicle has a lift kit on it that they had to break in order to put it on.
Okay, you can see we have a lot of stuff off the front of our engine, which is good so we can show you how the belt routes, but obviously it's going to be more compact for you. Here at the top, the belt's on the alternator, goes down around the power steering pump, back up around your water pump then down and around the crank, up and around your tensioner, back down for your AC pulley and then back up across this idle pulley and to the alternator.
You're going to want to feed a breaker bar up from the bottom. And you're going to have the fan here, but you should be able to reach up and in and get your breaker bar in and grab and pull down. Once you pull down, you can flip it off of one of the pulleys and then release your breaker bar slowly and take it out. And now you can reach down, bring the belt up, flip it off the water pump, and pull it up and out, and then pretty much the hardest part will be get it off your AC compressor, and pull it up through.
To loosen these bolts, 10 mm and then take a screwdriver or a pry bar and hold with one of the other bolts, and then you should be able to loosen 'em up.If it's sticking, use a little rust penetrant. Keep working with our screwdriver or pry bar and it'll come off.
Four 13 mm bolts hold your pump in: One, two, three, and four, down here. We'll remove the bottom one first. We've got a drain pan underneath. There are actually two prying spots. One here, you can get a pry bar there and pry out, and one on the other side here. When you do pry, you'll most likely get some water coming out. I'm just going to use a extra chisel to give me a little bit of more prying ability.
Now we see the original pump from our vehicle, new pump from 1A Auto. You can see it's exactly the same, comes with a new O-ring. Put that on without twisting it, and also comes with a shipping protector. Twist that, pull that off. You can see the pump from 1A Auto's exactly like the original. It's going to go on, and if your pump is wearing out and fluid's coming out of the check hole, then this'll fix your problem.
Use a wire brush and clean the mounting surface as best you can. Then we'll clean it up further afterwards. Paper towels to try and soak up as much of the old coolant as we can. Follow up with an abrasive pad, just trying to soak up as much of the coolant as we can. And we did put some motor oil on to the O-ring, just so it slides in there easily.
Put it in place evenly, and give it a push, and then we'll start in our bolts and tighten them up evenly. We'll torque these 15 to 22 foot-pounds. I do 10 the first time around and then 20, so you start here and just go clockwise right around. Then set the 20.
Clean up and reinstall your water pump pulley. Put a bolt through, peek back in there, line it up, and then start in the other three. These you want to tighten to 15 to 22 foot-pounds.
Obviously, we have a lot of stuff removed. This is so we can show you this process easier, but you will have to contend with your fan and stuff. Take a loop between the idler and the tensioner pulleys. Push it down in and you can get it from below but push it down in and put a loop over your AC then take your belt, push it down underneath your crank shaft and put a loop around the crank shaft. Okay and then it comes up, over the water pump and down over the alternator and we'll leave it off of the power steering pulley. That'll be the last part we put on.
We're going to use a half in ratchet and the bigger ratchet you have, the better because you're going to want to feed it up into here, get it into your tensioner and keep in mind your fan will be on for some repairs. Get that ratchet as high as you can and then reach through, pull the tensioner down and then pull your belt onto your power steering pulley. It's not working on the power steering pulley, let it come off the water pump pulley, get it on the power steering pulley, sometimes it's easier to push up and onto the smooth pulley but again you'll have your fan in the way in some places. Then release the tensioner and remove your ratchet.
. Probably the easiest way to get these together is actually to do the fan and shroud itself. My shroud's badly damaged. You basically just feed the shroud and fan down in together. Once it gets to a certain point, grab the fan, then just keep feeding the shroud down in. This will work for most vehicles. Doesn't work very well for mine, because the shroud has been broken, because somebody put a lift kit on the vehicle. There we go. Keep it everything in the right place. Then get the fan on a couple threads. Shrouding, and look down, make sure it goes into the little clips. Little clip here and the other side, then put your bolts in on this side. These are eight millimeters so we'll tighten them up. Tighten your fan up.
All right, now take your special fan tool and make sure you put it in. It's holding the correct way. This should be tightened up 40 to foot-pounds. There's no real good way to torque it, so I'm just going to take my wrench and get it tight and we'll call that 40.
Put your radiator hose back on. Squeeze the clamp back in to place and release it.
Put your air intake in place. Back in place over here. The tab winds up there and this clamp goes on. Just reach down and make sure nothing's getting pinched. Lock that down into place and your mass air flow connection, reconnect it. Reconnect this connector. Tube down here goes in there. Flat blade screwdriver to tighten up the clamp that holds it onto the throttle body. Throttle body cover back in place. And kind of move it around a little bit, figure out where the bolt hole is. I'm actually cheating, just looking right through here. See there, start it up and then push this side down into place and start my two bolts over here and then tighten them up.
Put the cover back on. It's in place, you can see all the holes. These back clips, just make sure the center's popped up. Push them down in, push the center in and then these ones across the front, clip in first and just push the center right in to lock it.
Put your jack handle back in. Refill your coolant with a Ford-specified coolant, and the total capacity of your system is just over 19 quarts, which is almost five gallons. But, depending on the repair you did, you'll have to put an appropriate amount in. But, you basically just put it in through here and then once you fill it, you'll want to run the vehicle through a couple cycles and just check and make sure that the coolant is filled to the full hot line on here. And, again, first few times you drive it, check the coolant because it'll be working air out of its system. Keep refilling at the coolant reservoir.
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