How to Replace your Engine Oil 2009-14 Ford F-150

Hi. I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.

To open a hood on your 2011 Ford F-150, the hood release is down here on the driver's side by the left foot, underneath the e-brake pedal. Pull on that. You lift it up until it hits the actual safety lock. The safety lock on this F-150 is directly below the symbol on the bottom bumper side, not the grille side. You'll have a lever right there, and you're going to lift, put it towards the driver's side, and lift up.

To remove your splash guard shield underneath the front of the engine, you need a 13-millimeter socket. And there's four mounting bolts and several body clips. The rear bolts here you just need to loosen up. It's a slotted steel plate, so we'll just loosen these and use them as a guide to reinstall. Then up front here, we have two: one here on this side, driver's side, and then one on the passenger side.

We have several of these white body clips. They just spin. Turn them halfway. There's two up on the side here. They'll come right down once you've turned them halfway. Then we have some flat body pins. I use my body tool, get behind it, and twist them. You might have those white plastic twist pins. This looks like someone has replaced those with these. And pay attention to where your shield is at because we took the two front bolts out, so I want to hold that with my hand and take this last body clip out.

Now, it's ready to lower down. The two bolts in the back should just hold it there, and now we're going to slide it forward. In the back here, the eyelets have broken on the shield, so someone put plastic ties in. I'm going to cut them. I'll take this felt piece down. Now, I'm just trying to make sure I have a good distance here. Make sure that shield slides out. So the whole point of the slotted steel plate, I would imagine, would be to slide it out, but you can't slide it out because they put this lip here. It's just there to fool us all. Okay. This shield is not light, so make sure you have a good hand on it on my last bolt right here.

So the oil filter's located in the front of the engine. It's right here. And it has a drain that comes down the front and also down the back, plastic casing. So make sure your catch pan's big enough. Then the oil drain is on the aluminum pan cover, which is right here. That'll be a 13-millimeter wrench or socket. With a oil filter wrench, reach right up there, grab your filter, and loosen it.

I'm just going to put a catch pan underneath the filter drip so that I can drain the oil. The oil drain is located right here, and it is a 15-millimeter wrench or socket. I'm going to put my wrench on there and break that free. Open up the drain plug, and start draining the engine oil.

This is when I'm going to inspect the drain plug, and look for the gasket to make sure there's no tears. This gasket is part of the drain plug itself, so if you didn't get a replacement or you don't need one, the threads look good. Then we can just clean this up and reuse it.

I like to always prime my oil filters. So I will take the new oil, and I'm going to fill this filter up. It's going to take several times because the gasket inside will fill up, and so the fluid level will go down. And I'll just keep doing that until it tops off and stays at the top. I like to take the clean oil and just coat the gasket before installation.

Now that all the oil has dripped out of the oil filter housing area, I'm going to clean the mounting surface where the filter hits with a rag. Make sure there's no debris or old oil there. I'm going to take my filter that I've already pre-primed, and I'm going to mount it. With the filter bottomed out, I turn it an extra-quarter turn to a half-turn, and I'm going to clean it with brake cleaner or parts cleaner and get rid of the old oil residue. Don't forget to clean the catch tray. That's got oil in it. You don't want that dripping all over the place.

Now, it's down to a residual drip here, so I'm just going to install my drain plug. Snug it right up. Once it's bottomed out, I just give it a little--and it should be fine. Get some brake parts cleaner and spray. Get rid of that oil dirt.

To reinstall the shield, you got the two mounting spots here. So you're going to place the shield up--line it up. One bolt in. You can let that hang because it will grab onto the cross-member, and you have two more in the front here, here, and there. So you push the shield up, line them up. Don't forget to put the clips back in. These plastic clips are pretty easy. See how they sit up inside that? They've got these guides that go inside there. So once they line up, you twist them in.

There's a couple of body clips. Get the side ones, same as the white plastic clips in the front. Tighten up all four bolts. They're all the same size. And now we're ready to put up the cloth one in the back here. It's a felt with a heat shield to it. That's going to go up and slide in that spot like that. And then the end tabs are right here. All the hardware for this is missing. We got it with wire ties all attached, so I will reattach it with wire ties. One more to go after this, and then I'll just cut off the extra plastic. Now, we'll just snug them up, get rid of all the extra.

Now we're going to be ready to lower it down and add oil. Now, I'm just going to take the oil fill cover and set it aside. I'm going to put a funnel in there, and start pouring my oil. This particular vehicle is a 3.5-liter. It takes six quarts of 5-30 oil. I have a five-quart jug and a separate quart, so that'll equal six. Once it's done filling, I'm going to run it, shut it off, and let it sit. And I'll check my oil level. So now I can reinstall my oil fill cap. Just make sure it's tight.

Then I'm going to start the truck up, let it idle, and then turn it off, and check my oil level in about a minute. Now we're going to remove the dipstick, clean it, reinstall it, and check my level. So with the dipstick clean, let's just check out the measurements here. So, that is the low mark. Then you have the X crossings, and then the dot for the high mark. You always want your oil right in-between those two dots. The best way and time to check your oil if you're not doing an oil change is right before you start it in the morning with the engine cold if it's been sitting all night. That's your true reading of your oil level. You never want to overfill your oil.

So, that's perfect. I'm right in the middle of the Xs, and this thing's only been sitting for a minute. Make sure your dipstick's all the way down. So to reset the oil light procedure, you're just going to turn the key in the on position. And you're looking on the info, which the control is over on the left-hand side. And we get to this setting, and you're going to go down to settings. Hit okay. Then we're going to go to vehicle. Hit okay. Scroll down on the menu until you see oil life reset. Now we're going to reset it to 100%. We're just going to hold the button as it's resetting, and it tells you you're all set. We're ready to go.

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How to Replace your Engine Oil 2009-14 Ford F-150

step 1 :Removing the Splash Shield

step 2 :Removing the Oil Filter

step 3 :Draining the Oil

step 4 :Installing the Oil Filter

step 5 :Installing the Splash Shield

step 6 :Servicing the Engine

step 7 :Resetting the Oil Life

Tools needed

How to Replace Oil Pan 2000-06 Chevy Tahoe

How to Replace your Engine Oil 2009-14 Ford F-150

step 1 :Removing the Splash Shield 0:57

step 2 :Removing the Oil Filter 3:48

step 3 :Draining the Oil 4:45

step 4 :Installing the Oil Filter 5:47

step 5 :Installing the Splash Shield 7:30

step 6 :Servicing the Engine 9:57

step 7 :Resetting the Oil Life 11:56

Tools needed

How to Replace Oil Pan 2000-06 Chevy Tahoe

step 1 :Removing the Splash Shield

step 2 :Removing the Oil Filter

step 3 :Draining the Oil

step 4 :Installing the Oil Filter

step 5 :Installing the Splash Shield

step 6 :Servicing the Engine

step 7 :Resetting the Oil Life