Replaces
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Carbon black(airborne, unbound particles of respirable size), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on Orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii, Alaska and US Territories. Shipping is not available to Canada.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii and US Territories as well as P.O. Boxes and APO/FPO/DPO addresses. Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Don from 1AAuto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you the whole process for removing your struts, and if you're replacing your struts with unloaded struts, you'll need to transfer the spring, the old spring over to the new strut so we show you that which is also the same as if you wanted to replace your strut mount. In these vehicles, they can rust out sometimes.
Tools you'll need are a jack and jack stands, 10, 12, 14, 17, and 22mm sockets. You'll need a ratchet and a breaker bar or a pipe for some extra leverage, spring compressors, a flat blade screwdriver or a small pry bar, and a torque wrench. Locate your brake line clip that holds your brake line up against the strut's 12 mm bolt. Removing that. On the inside of this strut is a 10mm bolt that holds on your ABS sensor and you'll want to remove that as well. Your two strut bolts are 17mms. I'm going to use a wrench on one end and a breaker bar on the other. You can see it takes the breaker bar and pipe just to get some extra leverage to get those broken free, but then they come out pretty easy after that. We'll kind of fast forward through it.
The upper strut is held in by three 14 mm nuts located in a triangle up top on your strut tower. Use a 14mm to remove them. Again, we'll fast forward here a little bit. You can see that those bolts should come off pretty easily. I'm going to support the strut as I take off the last nut so it doesn't fall out. I'm pulling the strut out to the front. On the top of the strut, I'm going to remove the black plastic cap with a flat blade screwdriver, and below it I'm going to find a 17mm nut which I'm going to leave alone for right now, and I'm going to set up my spring compressors. I'll just fast forward here a little bit. Just compress the spring a little bit. You want to keep some of the pressure on the top strut mount so you can get the 17mm bolt off.
On the spring, I can start to remove the 17mm bolt or nut inside on the top of the strut. Once you get that nut loose, you just want to loosen it up. You don't want to take it all the way off yet, and then you're going to compress the springs further then take the nut all the way off. I'm going to remove the strut now. Speed up here. If you're replacing your spring just showing you. You pry it off and then you could take that if you needed to replace that rubber bellows, you just take that off put a new one on and reassemble. Make sure you seat the spring down in correctly. Put your strut mount on and start the bolt or the nut that holds that on and then tighten it up preliminarily and you can see we're just putting all our old stuff together. This car is actually in good shape. Looks like it has newer struts on it so we're not putting new items on it. We're just taking everything apart and putting it back together to show you.
Once you have that bolt secured on there on the shaft of the strut, then you can decompress your spring. To put the strut back in, I'm going in from the front to the back. I'm leading it up making sure that I don't pinch my brake line or the ABS line. When I've got it somewhat close, I'm going to feed up the screw that goes to the strut plate, and they only go in one way so you'll have to turn it until you get the match. Start the nuts to hold it in place. Reinsert the spindle into the lower strut. Raise your control arm until you see the bolt holes line up. Just fast forward here as we tighten up those nuts and bolts preliminarily. I'm going to torque these bolts and nuts to 100 foot pounds. Re-securing the brake line with the bolt, the 12mm one. The ABS sensor. It's the 10mm on the other side. And speed up as we tighten up the top bolts between 25 and 30 foot pounds.
Just make sure that he upper strut bolt is tight, or nut is tight. Re-secure your cap. And we'll keep the speed going as we put the wheel and tire back up in place. Hub cap and lug nuts, tighten them preliminarily. With the car back on the ground with a little bit of pressure on it, or weight on it, I'm going to use the 22 and the torque wrench that I've set to 100 foot pounds, and torque them in a star pattern.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
