Kit Includes: (2) Front Strut & Spring Assemblies (2) Rear Shock Absorbers
TRQ fully loaded shocks and struts are manufactured using premium raw materials and calibrated to restore original ride comfort. TRQ shocks are fully loaded featuring a pre-loaded bearing plate, upper and lower spring isolator, upper spring seat, coil spring, boot kit, and premium strut. TRQ recommends replacing your shocks or struts in pairs to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Loaded Struts: Pre-assembled application specific design
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Matched Pair: Improved comfort and extended service life
Restored Performance: Reduced body sway and vibration
Our direct fit gas-charged shock absorbers help restore your vehicle's handling and ride quality to just like new.
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Upper Strut Mount
Strut Bearing
Coil Spring
Boot & Bumper Kit
Gas-charged Strut
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How to Replace Rear Shock Absorbers 2007-16 GMC Acadia
How to Replace Rear Shocks 2009-17 Chevy Traverse
How To Replace Rear Shocks 2009-17 Chevy Traverse
How to Replace Front Strut 2013-17 Buick Enclave
How To Replace Rear Shock 2007-16 GMC Acadia
Created on:
Tools used
21mm Socket
21mm wrench
Torque Wrench
18mm Wrench
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
22mm Socket
1. Removing the Wheel
Use a 22mm socket and breaker bar to break the lug nuts loose
Raise and support the vehicle
Remove the lug nuts
Remove the wheel
2. Removing the Old Shock Absorber
Use an 21mm socket and ratchet to loosen the lower nut up
Remove the nut
Raise the control arm with a jack
Remove the bolt
Use the 18mm wrench to remove the upper nut
Hold the bolt with a 15mm wrench
Remove the nut and the bolt
Pull the shock absorber off the car (using a pry bar, if necessary)
3. Reinstalling the New Shock Absorber
Line up the new shock
Insert the shock into the upper bracket (use a hammer if necessary)
Insert the bolt and thread on the nut by hand
Line up the bottom of the shock and insert the washer between the shock and control arm
Insert the bottom bolt and the nut
Snug up the top and bottom nuts and bolts
Torque the bottom bolt to 74 ft-lbs
Remove the jack from the control arm
Torque it to 52 ft-lbs
4. Reinstalling the Wheel
Line up the wheel
Thread the lug nuts on by hand
Lower the car
Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to 140 ft-lbs
Hi. I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
In this video, we're going to be removing and replacing rear shocks in a 2010 GMC Acadia. If you need this part or other parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description and head over to 1AAuto.com.
Take the tire off. We're going to use a 22 mm socket and a breaker bar. You can use a 7/8, also. I'm just going to break all the lug nuts free. Raise and support the vehicle. We're using a two-post lift, but you can also do this with a jack and jack stands. Take the lug nuts off. We use our socket to twist them out. Take the wheel off.
So, here's the shock and, as you can see, all this stuff on here. This is all oil and dirt that's been because the shock is leaking.
I'm going to take this 21 mm nut off and this bolt. We're going to loosen it up with a 21 mm wrench and a socket and a ratchet. All right. We're going to loosen this nut. We're not going to take it off completely. I'm going to leave it right there.
Now, you can support underneath the control arm. We're going to use a screw jack. You could just use a floor jack if you're working on the ground. I'm just going to bring this up a little bit so that our shock is loose. Now, our shock bolt is loose. You can unscrew the nut, take the nut off and the washer, and then our bolt should come right up. Maybe a little bit more. Just like that.
Now, I can lower this back down. If you're working on the ground, you could leave it the way it is, but we have to lower the vehicle down to gain access to the upper shock bolts. I'm going to use and 18 mm wrench on this 18 mm nut, and then a 15 mm ratchet wrench on the bolt side. If your bolt's really rusty, you can use some penetrating oil. Ours doesn't look too bad. Pull the nut off, pull the bolt straight through, and take a medium pry bar and get in behind here and just pull it straight out. And there it is.
This is our old part. This is our old shock. This is our new shock from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, all the oil leaked out of this one, and that's what keeps the shock's ability to do its job. So, this one is not performing up to optimum level. As you can see, the design is very similar. Slight differences like this upper dust shield is metal, whereas the old one was plastic. It still has the same configuration up top, same down below. There is a washer that can go on this side. If you're doing the other side, you can put it on that side. It comes with this tie on here. You can take that off. You can do it in the car or take it off before you put it on. Get your part at 1AAuto.com, and you'll be ready to rock and roll.
All right. We're going to install our new shock in the back. It's a little tight right here. So, we can either loosen up some of these bolts and get it lined in, or you can take a little hammer and give it a little tap. Pull the brake line out of the way a little bit. Take the nut and stick the nut on.
Then, we're going to support our lower control arm again. If you were doing this on the ground, you could have left this supported before. Bring it up to the level of the shock. And then, take our bolt, and then that special washer is going to go in-between. It's got a angle side to it that's going to go towards the control arm, so stick that in first. Line our bolt up. I'm going to have to go up a little bit more. That's lined up. I'm going to take our washer, set the washer on, and then the nut and tighten that up.
Now, we're going to snug up this bolt with a 21 mm socket and a 21 mm wrench and ratchet. Now, we're going to torque the bolt to 74 foot-pounds. Now, we'll lower our lower control arm. Right.
Now, we're going to tighten this bolt and nut down on the 18 mm nut with a wrench and a ratchet wrench. 15 on the bolt side.
Now, we're going to tighten this bolt and nut down to 52 foot-pounds. Install our wheel. Put the lug nuts on.
Now, we're going to torque the lug nuts down to 140 foot-pounds. You're going to want to torque them in a star pattern so that the wheel will go flush to the rotor evenly.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
15mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
15mm Socket
Rust Penetrant
17mm Socket
Jack Stands
21mm wrench
Side Cutters
Rubber Mallet
Dead Blow Hammer
Ratchet
Wire Brush
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
1. Removing the Wheel
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise and support the vehicle
Remove the lug nuts
Slide the wheel off the hub
If the wheel is stuck, thread on two lug nuts by hand
Strike the wheel with a dead blow hammer
Remove the lug nuts
Slide the wheel off the hub
2. Removing the Rear Shock
Apply rust penetrant to the shock bolts
Clean the shock bolts with a wire brush
Hold the upper shock bolt with a 15mm wrench
Loosen the upper shock nut with an 18mm wrench
Hold the lower shock bolt with a 21mm socket and a breaker bar
Loosen the lower shock nut with a 21mm wrench
Support the control arm with a floor jack
Remove the lower shock nut and bolt
Remove the upper shock nut and bolt
Pull the shock off its mount
3. Installing the Rear Shock
Loosen the two 15mm bolts in the shock mount bracket
Place the shock into the mount
Slide the upper shock bolt into the top of the shock and the mount
Thread the nut onto the upper shock bolt
Tighten the two 15mm bolts in the shock mount bracket
Cut the shipping strap off the shock with side cutters
Allow the shock to expand
Place the washer between the control arm and the shock
Line up the shock with the control arm
Slide the lower shock bolt into the top of the shock and the control arm
Thread the nut onto the lower shock bolt
Torque the lower shock nut to 74 foot-pounds
Lower the jack
Hold the upper shock nut with an 18mm wrench
Torque the upper shock bolt to 52 foot-pounds
4. Installing the Wheel
Slide the wheel onto the hub
Start the lug nuts by hand
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern
Hi. I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Use a breaker bar and a 22mm socket to loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground. Just go around and loosen them all. Raise and support the vehicle. We're using a two-post lift. You can use a jack and jack stands. Use a socket and finish removing the lug nuts. Take the wheel and tire off.
The wheel and tire is stuck to the brake rotor. I have to put a lug nut on it. Put a second one on the opposite side here. Just lightly take a dead blow. We'll just break it free. It might take a couple hits. It might take one hit. The lug nuts keep it from falling off. Just put the wheel and tire aside.
If the shock bolt that goes through the top is covered with dirt, I’m going to take some rust penetrant, spray it on here, and with a wire brush, try and knock some of that dirt free so when I go to remove the nut it spins off the threads easily, so it doesn't get clogged up with dirt. I have to clean some of the dirt off the end. For the lower one, I'll do the same. Spray it with some rust penetrant.
I'll start by loosening but not removing the upper one. There isn't quite enough clearance to get an 18mm deep socket in here and a ratchet, so I'm going to use an 18mm box wrench. I'm going to loosen the nut, and I have a 15mm wrench to counterhold the bolts. Just keep going until you have the nut almost all the way off. You can change to the open ended part so it'll go a little quicker. I've got this loose but not all the way out. I'm going to spray some more rust penetrant in here. It is moving freely, but I want to make sure it comes out of this part of the shock.
The shock is mounted to the lower control arm with a large bolt that goes all the way through the control arm and is held on with a flange nut. Both of these are 21mm. I'm going to use a 21mm socket and a breaker bar. I'm going to hold the end of the bolt. I'm going to use a 21mm box wrench to break the nut free. It's a lot easier sometimes to break the nut free than try to turn the whole bolt.
I turn this pretty far out on the threads, and then I will use a floor jack to support the lower control arm and remove the lower bolt. Use our floor jack. I'll just lift up on the control arm just a tiny amount. Unthread this by hand now. Let's lift up on the jack a little bit. There it is. We're going to remove this upper nut from the long bolt. Give it a good push. Pull straight through, which is good, or else grab the shocks, and pull the bolt out. I'm just going to push the brake line just gently out of the way. I pulled the bolt out. I'm also supporting the shock. Just like that. Now, I'm just going to work on walking the shock out of the mount here. The hinge is caught on some dirt.
This is the original shock from our vehicle, and a brand new shock from 1AAuto.com. It comes wrapped with this shipping strap so it doesn't fully extend like this one is. I will actually install it with that in there. It also comes with this little conical washer to match the original. That'll go on the inside here. This'll fit great and work great in your vehicle.
I'm going to loosen this bracket here, these two 15mm bolts using a 15mm socket and ratchet. I'm not going to remove them, I'm just going to loosen them. That should give me enough movement. Install our shock. Okay, just slide the long bolt through. Install the nut. Tighten these bolts back up. Just go until they get tight. Now you cut this shipping strapping with some side cutters. The shock will start to expand.
This washer that comes with the new shock, the cone part is going to match the cone part in the control arm. Slide this over. You might have to push up the shock a little bit. Put the bolt through, just like that. The washer will go back around this side, and the large nut. Torque the lower bolt and nut to 74 foot-pounds. Lower the floor jack. I'm going to use a 15mm ratcheting wrench on the bolt end and counterhold the 18mm nut and snug this up. Counterhold the nut with the 18mm, and then torque the bolt's head 52 foot-pounds. It would be ideal if I could torque on the nut, but I can't get it in here with a deep socket.
Reinstall the wheel and tire. Thread the lug nuts on by hand. Now lower the vehicle to the ground and torque the lug nuts. Torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Torque Wrench
15mm Socket
18mm Wrench
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
21mm Socket
21mm wrench
Socket Driver
Wheel Chocks
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Swivel
3/8 Inch Impact Gun
22mm Socket
Tools used
24mm Socket
15mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
Hammer
15mm Socket
18mm Wrench
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
Trim Tool Set
Locking Pliers
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Wheel Chocks
Bungee Cord
Wiper Arm Removal Tool
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
22mm Socket
Marker / Writing Utensil
I'm going to take a 22-millimeter socket and remove these lug nuts on the wheel. Now I'm going to remove the wheel. I'm going to take this nut off first. I need some locking pliers behind just to hold the stud from spinning. Now what you could do is take an 18 millimeter wrench, and then a socket on the end of this, and loosen it up that way, but this is a lot easier using the 18-millimeter socket. And you might have to tighten this up a little more. And take that nut off. Remove these hold-downs for this ABS wire or wheel speed sensor wire. Just use a trim tool to get underneath here. Pry that off. Then over here just like that. Set that aside.
Now the new strut is probably going to be slightly different. But just to get the alignment somewhat close, just take a marker and just mark the knuckle. Try to put the new strut close to that. You're still going to need an alignment after you're done, but at least this will bring it close. Take a 24-millimeter socket and take these nuts off. And then same with the bottom one.
Now take a hammer and slide these bolts up. They are slotted, so that's what's keeping them in the knuckle. All right. Now we can separate the knuckle from the strut, and then just slide it to the side. And you want to be careful. You don't want the axle to pop out. So try to push on this, and then you can use a bungee cord, or a bungee cable, and just slide it over here. Just find something that you can attach it to underneath. Just go around the back just like that. And that's just going to prevent the axle from popping out and to make sure there's no tension on the brake hose.
You need to remove the wipers. Use a straight blade screwdriver. Just get underneath the cover right there. Use a 15-millimeter socket. Take that nut off. And grab the wiper arm, and just rock it back and forth. Or you can use a wiper arm removal tool, and slide it up just like that. Then do the same for the other side. Take this ground adapter off. Just use a 15-millimeter wrench. And because of the way this trim panel is, we're going to need to remove this panel. Take a trim tool. Just get underneath here. Do that on both sides and then remove all these clips. That's a clip right here and throughout the rest of the panel.
Now just grab this panel and slide it out of the way. Remove these trim pieces on both sides. Use a trim tool. Take these clips out. Now I'm going to remove all these pushpins. Just use a trim tool along the base of the cowl. Just take this fuse box cover off just because it's in the way a little bit. Just push down on these locks and then slide it out of the way. You can slide this up. All right, so lifting this up and then sliding the back side down. There is clips that go underneath the glass holding it in.
Now we don't have to take this off completely. You just need to get it out of the way. You can take this washer hose off. Just slide this out. You can just take a screwdriver or something to brace this up just like that. You just need to access the top of the strut. Now I'm going to take these nuts off at this top of the strut mount. Use a 15-millimeter socket. I'm going to take two off, and then before I take the last one off, I'm actually going to hold the strut, with the strut, and take the last nut off. And slide the strut down, and then tip it, and slide it out.
Now, we're going to take the new strut. I'm going to hold one of the nuts in my hand. Now slide the new strut between the brake hose and the axle, and then tip it up. And try to line those studs up, up top. And I'm going to put the nut on from up top. And now I can let go from below, and just get the other nuts started. I'm not going to tighten these down yet. Just get them all started.
Now you can take that bungee cord off, and just slide the knuckle in position. Take these bolts, line them up. Now leaving it loose up top makes it easier to line this stuff up. If you tighten those up, it's not as easy. You can get that lined up. And then try to...try to line the strut up with those lines that you made. And then we'll tighten these down. Now just make sure that line lines up pretty close, and take your 24-millimeter socket. I'm going to snug these down with the gun. Once you see the struts starting to move towards the knuckle then stop. And then torque those 2 nuts to 144 foot-pounds.
Now I'm going to take this wheel speed sensor wire, and push the retainers back in their place. And take the sway bar, slide that into the bottom of the strut. Pick the nut. Put that on. Take an 18-millimeter wrench on the inside, 18-millimeter socket, tighten this up. Torque this to 59 foot-pounds. All right, now you can put the tire back on. And then put the lug nuts on. Now we're going to tighten the lug nuts down to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly.
I'll just go around again. Double-check. Then I'm going to snug these up first. And now I'm going to torque those nuts to 33 foot-pounds. Now I'll just take this screwdriver out of the way. Get the cowl positioned underneath the windshield properly. Now I'll just take this cover, and slide that in position, and put the retainer in. Do the same on the other side.
Now make sure this is all lined up with these clips in. Now take this panel, slide this in position. Make sure that lines up. Put this weatherstrip on both sides. Now take all these push retainers and put those back in. And put the fuse box cover back on. And take this ground adapter, screw that back in. Just snug it up with a wrench. And take the wiper arm, reposition it on the windshield. Sometimes you can see where it was from before, where you could have marked it with a crayon. And put the nut on, and torque this nut to 29 foot-pounds. Do the same for the other one. And close the cap. Now after you're done with this repair, you're going to want to take the vehicle to a local garage and have the vehicle aligned, so you don't have premature tire wear.
Tools used
21mm Socket
Torque Wrench
15mm Socket
13/16 Inch Wrench
18mm Wrench
Air Compressor
Drill
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
22mm Socket
Remove the wheel, I'm gonna use a 22-millimeter socket. Take the wheel off. So I want to support the lower control arm. I am going to use a screw jack just to take the tension off the shock. You can use a floor jack or even a jack stand. Now I can use a 13/16-inch wrench or a 21-millimeter wrench, put it on the nut right here, and then a 21-millimeter socket, take this bolt out, and this bolt. All right. So that's separated down there. Now, before I take this bolt out here, I'm just going to loosen up these two bolts for this bracket. I don't have to take the bolts out completely, just loosen them. Use a 15-millimeter socket. That's good. Now I'll take that bolt out. Then take a 15-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter wrench and loosen this up. Take that bolt out. You can slide that bolt out, watch the brake hose. I'm going to slide that out. And to loosen that bracket up, that just makes sliding this out and the new one back in a lot easier.
Before we install the shock, you just want to exercise the shock, just compress it and let it expand. It's going to get the fluid to go through the system and do its thing properly and then it'll be all set to put in the vehicle. And take the shock and the bolt, slide it in position, watch out for that brake hose. Just like that and get this started up here. And before I tighten that all up, let's put the lower bolt in. Now, there is this washer that is domed up a little bit, now that's going to go right in this position here on the control arm. And you can take the bolt, slide it through. If you have to move the control arm up a little bit, you can move it up. And take the washer and the nut, get that started. Now we'll tighten this and torque this to 52 foot-pounds. I'll just snug these two bolts up. Now I can lower the screw jack. Now put the tire back on. Now we'll torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a star pattern, that way it tightens the wheel down evenly. And I'll just go around again, double-check.
SKA85602
In Stock
Product Reviews
Loading reviews
4.61/ 5.018
18 reviews
5 Stars
4 Stars
3 Stars
2 Stars
1 Star
14
2
1
1
0
Front struts
will
July 7, 2019
The rear shocks work great the front struts started making noise after a month when you turn the wheel the springs turn and it lets them make a popping sound
Used again
Michael
March 22, 2020
Second customer comes in from previous customer recommending these products for their car and said we will do a great job installing them. Another happy customer.
Struts
S
March 26, 2020
Nice parts
Fantastic delivery time
R
May 5, 2020
Everything I ordered for my wife's 2014 GMC Acadia fit perfectly lower control arms, sway bar links, inner and outer tie rod, control arm bushings, shocks and struts also if you buy inner tie rod buy their inner tie rod tool it makes it a lot easier. Shipping was super fast and everything was of really good quality I will continue to use 1Aauto for all my non performance vehical repairs and customer service is fast to answer any questions you may have, and for those of you that aren't that mechanically inclined they also provide a ton of how to videos. 1Aaout is a great company I will use for many years to come!
Bruce
December 26, 2021
Worked fine.
1A to the rescue!
Dusty
December 30, 2021
Super fast shipping. Perfect fit, and great instructional videos. Thanks!
Daniel
January 21, 2022
Exactly the parts needed & good fit. Will look to you again for needed parts. Thanks
Manuel
March 7, 2022
Very happy
Donald
March 15, 2022
Parts fit well. Install was easy.
E.
May 10, 2022
just right price and and grate parts for my traverze
Replacing it all at the same time is the way to go!
Alan
August 31, 2022
Everything fit great and made a huge improvement in handling/ride. I am a high mileage driver and installed all of these shocks, struts, swaybar links 15k miles ago. Very satisfied.
Love the Product
Robert
November 23, 2022
TRQ products worked so well on Toyota Highlander that I bought them for my Buick Enclave. Easy install. Great price.
Fine
Daniel
January 16, 2023
They work fine.
Great parts for the price
Eddie
March 21, 2023
All the parts fit just right. The only problem that I have is that the bottom bolt hole on the front struts is not oval shaped, so I had to buy camber kits for both sides so they can be adjusted.
Happy wife, happy life Right!
Mike
June 26, 2023
Replace all shocks and struts on wife's Buick Enclave. These fit great with no problem and I saved a lot of money wife is happier now too!
Affordable not exceptional
william
August 13, 2023
I installed them my self as per A-1 video, torque the bolts correctly, after install went and had front wheels alignment and new tires The struts spring portion did not match the original in diameter that is the first thing, the ride is clearly not the same and to that I mean it is sponge e . The front end is bouncing with the road. I'm hoping they will settle in the more mileage I drive. I have driven about 2 hundred miles since installation. I saved my old struts and springs in the event that I need to replace them for a better strut I will remove the springs and re use. I have a long distance trip planned for Labor Day I think after that I will decide if they stay or go.
Good replacement
David
August 18, 2023
Fit and finish were right on with the originals that I removed. Install was straight forward and easy. The YouTube videos were extremely helpful.
Good struts
Kelly
April 6, 2024
Changed & fixed ride problem
Customer Q&A
Who makes these struts?September 28, 2021
Clem M
10
These are manufactured by TRQ. TRQ is a high quality, high-end name brand that we offer and back with our 1A Auto Limited Lifetime Warranty.
September 28, 2021
Jessica D
10
Hi I put these struts on my Daughters Traverse. It took me about 6 hours by myself in my driveway. They work great. I used TRQ my moms KIA and TRQ on my 2000 IMPALA. If you want the next strut up use MONRO.
God Bless
September 29, 2021
JOSEPH S
Is this the whole set (both rear and front)?March 9, 2022
John D
10
Yes, and theyve been great
March 10, 2022
Frank G
10
Hello, that is correct for all 4 wheel locations.
March 10, 2022
Ricale A
10
yes the struts are for front and shocks go in back, I put on a set last year and they work great, pretty easy process
March 10, 2022
J L
10
It was when I purchased it
March 10, 2022
Alyiah S
10
Yes
March 10, 2022
Kyle C
what brand ? and do you have other brands to chose from?March 18, 2022
Michael S
10
These are manufactured by TRQ. TRQ is a high quality, high-end name brand that we offer and back with our 1A Auto Limited Lifetime Warranty. We may have another option, we would need your VIN# to look that up for you.
March 18, 2022
Ricale A
Customer service
877-844-3393
Monday - Friday 8:00am - 9:30pm ET Saturday - Sunday 8:00am - 4:30pm ET
Enter Vehicle Year Make Model
Specify your vehicle's year, make and model to guarantee fit.
Year
Make
Model
Options
Drivetrain
This part doesn’t fit a . Select from parts that fit.