2006 Audi S4 without S Line Package Front Grille DIY Solutions GRI01530

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks!

In this video, we are going to show you how to replace your front grille on this 2007 Audi A4. It should be pretty much the same for any 2005-2009 A4 and sedan and wagons and stuff are probably a similar procedure. You are going to need a new grille from 1AAuto.com, jack and jack-stands you may want to use those as you take off the bumper cover it makes it a little easier flat and Philips screwdrivers, T20, 25 and 30 Torx sockets, 10mm socket, ratchet extensions, flex joint and a flashlight.

Using a jack and jack-stands or a lift will make the repair easier and we do it to make filming easier, lets us get the camera in there much better. You want to look in the little green circle is a little triangle, that just is a reference point and really where you want to put the jack and jack-stand is under where the red circle is under the pinch weld and that's the same for both sides.

Starting on the front, up underneath, there are three flat blade fasteners. You just turn these counterclockwise about a half turn and they come out. Sometimes, sand and gunk can get in there and make them hard. There are three, one in the middle, and then two to the side, and I am missing one on this vehicle. If you want to remove the center panel, you don't have to, but if you wanted to, there are 6 Phillip screws, and I'm showing it here, that hold the panel in. Fast-forward as I remove that panel, just as a note, I may say Phillips screwdriver, and you may find Torx driver, screws and bolts, that can happen over time as cars have damage, and these things get worked on. What you see here may not be exactly what you find on your vehicle.

Once those screws are out, you just pull on that panel. It kind of snaps out. Again, if you're removing your bumper cap, you don't have to do this step. Inside each wheel well, there's a series of fasteners. They're either T25 screws or Phillips screws, and then there was even one flat blade screw in here. You want to remove these T25 screws. Then, on the other side, you want to turn your wheels the other way because, sometimes, getting these lower ones is a little easier with the wheels turned the other way. Then there is a pushpin that you just need to pull on to get it out. If need be, you may want to work a flat blade screwdriver in behind to pull that plug out. You can see I can just grip the inner fender and pull on it firmly and remove that pushpin plug. I'll fast-forward here.

I'm using the T25 Torx driver on a socket and ratchet as well as a Phillips screwdriver and remove all the fasteners in the wheel well. Obviously, I'm doing this on one side. You want to repeat this for the other side as well. Push the plastic wheel lining in towards the center of the car and pull it back. There are two studs kind of positioned right there that go into the fender. They're held by two 10 millimeter nuts as I'm going to show you right here. Here, you can see circled in red are those two 10 millimeter nuts that you need to remove. Again, you need to do this on both sides. To get those nuts, I use a flex joint on the end. That's a deep socket, 10 millimeter. I use a couple of extensions to make it easier to get in there.

As you saw, I just put a light up in there just to get me some light. Obviously, this is where a flashlight will come in handy. You can see better what you're doing. I'll just fast-forward as I remove those two 10 millimeter nuts. On the driver side, the washer bottle creates a little bit of a tight space, but, using the same ratchet and extensions and flex joint, you can get in there. I can even get my hand in there to get the nuts off once they're loose.

On top, there are three T30 bolts: one in the center, one on the side, and one on the other side. Then, down in these holes there are actually two T30 bolts that you just need to loosen up. There's a couple of little cushions that you just kind of pinch on to the bumper cover. Having the flashlight helps look down into those holes and see the T30 Torx bolts. You may find that these are rusty, so you have to really make sure that you get your Torx driver down inside them. You just need to get them loose. Loosen them up maybe one or two turns. Then I'll just fast-forward here as I remove those three T30 Torx bolts.

Now, you need to release each side of the cover and pull the cover off. Be aware, if you have fog lights, there is another connection that you have to remove. Final step, disconnect this connector. Push the tab on the top with your thumb and pull the connector, and your cover is off.

There is a series of silver T20 screws around the edge that hold the grille to the bumper cover that you need to remove. I'll just fast-forward as I use a T20 Torx driver socket ratchet extension to remove all of those. There's a small pin in the middle you have to pry a couple of teeth on it to release the grill from the bumper cover. There is a series of tabs that hold your Audi emblem in place and you need to carefully pry those tabs, you will see that they have a little lock on them. Carefully pry then and pull your emblem at the same time. The emblem should come off, you want to be careful not to break the tabs, if you break one or two that's okay but if you break too many more you might have to buy a new emblem.

Then I cleaned up my Audi emblem. I used some chrome cleaner to clean it all up. There are a couple of line up tabs and you just press it into place on your replacement grille. I'm going to fast-forward here as I put the grill back in place and just start all those T20 Torx screws back in. Tighten them up, when you tighten them up you want to tighten them firm, you want to be careful not to strip out any of the plastic.

Then, put the bumper plate cover back on. Remember to re-plug the harness if you have fog lights and then lift the cover up into place.

You want to make sure that those two bolts that you loosened, make sure that the forks that are in the bumper cover go around those retainers and go in correctly. I'll show you here in a second. It kind of can be a little difficult to line up the cover between the headlight and the mounting points inside. I'll kind of give it a little force and it doesn't quite go. What you need to do is push this or pull the headlight to the side so you can line up down inside. It's a little difficult to see, but you'll see that I'll mess with it a little bit.

It's one of those things that once you get it, it goes in very easily. What I end up doing is pulling the headlight to the side so that the bumper cover can go in correctly and easily. As you can see, once you get it right it goes right in nice and easy. Do it for one side, and since I figure it out, it's really easy on the other side. It goes right in. Then, latch the sides into place.

Then, I'll speed up here as I put those three bolts in at the top as well as tighten up the two T30 retainers that are down inside the holes. Then, I'll continue to fast-forward, put in the two nuts that hold the cover to the fronts of the fenders and tighten those up. Then, we'll put in all the T25 and Phillips screws that hold the inner fenders in, and the only part I don't show is... You obviously want to put the three flat-blade screwdriver retainers back in at the bottom and you should be all set.

Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.