Dodge Chrysler Coolant Reservoir Dorman OE Solutions 603-056

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In this video we're going to be working with our 2006 Chrysler 300 3.5 liter V6. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your radiator overflow bottle with the cap. If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this vehicle as well as many other makes and models, and if you need this part for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com.Here are the items you'll need for this repair.

Raise and support your vehicle. We're using a lift to make it easier to show you what's going on, but this job can easily be done at home on a jack and jack stands. Open the petcock at the bottom passenger side of the radiator. Allow the coolant to drain into a proper receptacle. Once the coolant's finished draining, go ahead and close the petcock. You may still want to keep a drain bucket underneath there just in case there're any little drips.

Move the tab out of the way, and slide your power steering reservoir up. We'll just allow that to hang out of the way for now. You may be able to remove this clamp by hand, and the hose along with it. Remove the two 10 millimeter bolts where the reservoir meets the strut tower. We'll do this using a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet.

Lift up, and bring the reservoir up to make accessing this bottom clamp easier. We'll then loosen and remove the clamp with a pair of grooved jaw pliers. The hose will come off as well. We'll remove the reservoir from our vehicle.

Here we have our old part that we removed from our vehicle, and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, these parts are exactly the same, with the same lower hose fittings, and the same upper hose fittings. We also have a new cap on the reservoir. This is a reservoir based system meaning that there's no cap on our radiator so there is pressure in our expansion tank here, as well as this being the proper place to fill your cooling system from. We have the same overflow hose at the top, and the same two bolt mounting locations. You could see how discolored our old reservoir is, this is from improperly maintained coolant staining it and you can see that there's a lot of sediment and debris building up inside of the tank. It also makes it very difficult to see our level. The new tank is nice and clear, it's going to make it a lot easier to monitor the level and condition of our coolant as well as keeping all this sediment and debris from recirculating into the system and possibly causing damage. Plastic tanks are also prone to cracking, or if your vehicle overheats, could even melt in certain situations. So if your old reservoir is damaged, discolored or full of debris, this new part from 1A Auto is going to go in direct fit just like your original equipment and fix you up right.

Install the lower hose back on to the reservoir. You'll have to compress the clamp while sliding the hose onto the bottom of the tank. Reinstall the reservoir. Slide the power steering reservoir back into its slots, as well as the top hose back over its fitting. Reinstall your two 10-millimeter bolts with the socket and ratchet.

Open the cap by pushing down and rotating it counterclockwise. Place a funnel in your reservoir, and fill the vehicle with as much 50/50 mix of the appropriate coolant and water as the system will take. Start the vehicle. Set the fan to the lowest setting, and the heat to the highest setting. I like to set it to vent so it's easiest to feel through an open window. Make sure you have some extra coolant ready to go next to the car while it's running. Continue to keep the coolant level up, and monitor the temperature coming out of the vents as well as the one on the gauge. Once the vehicle has a steady flow of heat and has maintained its normal operating temperature, the bubbles have stopped and it has stopped bringing down the coolant level, you can shut the vehicle off. Remove your funnel and reinstall your cap by pushing down, moving it two clicks and you're good to go

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