How to Replace Parking Brake Shoes 2007-10 Hyundai Elantra

Hey, friends, it's Len here at 1A Auto. Today I'm working on a 2007 Hyundai Elantra, we'll be doing something fairly simple, E-brake shoes.

If you need any parts for your vehicle, you can always check us out at 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

Now it's time to loosen these up, okay? 21 millimeter, let's get our long ratchet here. I've got the majority of the weight of the vehicle off the ground, it's just barely touching so I can you know, remove the lug nuts, or at least break them free without spinning the wheel. Okay?

Just going to give it a quick crank. Not going to loosen it up all the way. Last lug nut, I'm holding the wheel. Took off our hubcap. Now we're going to carefully take the wheel down and lower it to the ground. And we'll put it safely out of the way.

Next, what I like to do, is I'm going to take off this bolt right here, and this bolt right here. I'm going to use a 14 millimeter. Break this free.

These are both the same, see if we can get this off. Something like this, small pry bar. Try to wedge it in here somewhere. Try to get this caliper off. Here we are. If we weren't replacing the caliper, even though we are, I would always look along here. This is the piston, this is the piston boot. You want to see if there's fluid coming out of there, okay? We're replacing this, so it doesn't really matter, but if you weren't, you would check. If there is fluid coming out, then you'd need to replace it. In which case, you just go on 1AAuto.com, right?

Anyway, so now we've got our pads, pads are nice and frozen in there, those are not going to come out on their own. Okay. So the reason why I took the caliper off of the bracket is because I wanted to show you, you've got one caliper bracket bolt right here, okay? It's just a 14 millimeter head. The other one is located behind this arm. So we'd have to take off this bolt, with the nut, take it out of here, get this arm out of the way to get to it. Or you could try to use something like a wrench, just try to get it in between there somehow magically and weasel it out. That's completely up to you. Me personally, I'm just going to try to take off this bolt, there's a nut on the back side, we'll do it that way and then we'll have clear access to get to that bolt.

Let's say that you're not replacing this caliper for some reason. Right? You're doing your rear brakes, you're not replacing the caliper, maybe you know that it's good, or maybe you're even to see if it's good. What you would do is you would take this, this is a bleeder screw, you would turn that to the left, to reverse it out. You'll wait and see a little bit of fluid coming out. You want to make sure you have your collection receptacle under there, so you don't get brake fluid on your hands or on the ground or anything like that. It is a chemical. Anyway, so fluid starts coming out, right?

Now what you would want to do, is you would want to push back your caliper piston, so let's get this off of here and I'll show you what it is that I'm talking about in there. This right here is your caliper piston. Okay? They sell a tool that you can squeeze it, you just ... Basically, what you want to do is push that piston in, whatever you have to do. You could try using some pliers, squeeze it with this open. It has to be open, okay? You don't want to do it with it closed. You do it with it closed, it's going to force fluid up your lines, into your ABS unit, start messing a whole bunch of things up, it's going to cost you a heck of a lot more money than just replacing the calipers. Okay? So if you weren't replacing the calipers, that's what you would do to push back your caliper piston.

Then you'd have to take these sliders, these are frozen as tight as they can be. So that's very bad. They should actually be able to spin, move in and out, do all sorts of cool things, you know, in and out, spin, spin, spin. These are really bad. Part of the reason why we're replacing it. Just going to hang that caliper up here so it's not hanging on the hose. The pads themselves, you would just knock these out of here, these are frozen into the bracket as well, so that's another issue.

Take those out and clean up the bracket, make sure everything flows nicely, and then you know, you put in your new pads or whatever it is you're doing, okay? So you're going to want to clean up your caliper sliders, clean up the brackets themselves, and the tins, and then you can put it all back together. And if you wanted to see how to go ahead and do that, we actually did that physically on the front end of this vehicle, for the front brakes. So all you would do is look up a 2007 Hyundai Elantra front brake job, and you'd be able to see how to the sliders, how to clean up the brackets, push back the calipers, all that good stuff. Okay?

So let's keep moving. So right here, we have a 17 millimeter head bolt, it goes through from the rear to the front, and there's an nut on the back side, which is also a 17 millimeter. What I'm going to do, I'm going to have my wrench on the nut side, and then I'm going to blast this side with my air gun. For the 17 millimeter, you can use a ratchet, you can use a wrench, whatever you need to do to get it off.

17, 17. Safety glasses, hand protection.

Is there a nut? Get my gun off of here. Here it is. See if I get the other bolt out of here. Here's our bolt, just going to put the two of those together. Nice, all right. Let's see if this arm will move. Watch your eyes. Perfect. So now we have a clear view of our 14 millimeter bolt right there, that was easy-peasy, and another 14 right here. We'll take both of these out, so I'm going to remove the lower one here, using my 14 millimeter and my ratchet with a short extension. I get this one almost all the way out, so I'm going to leave it in just a little bit, just like that. Now I'm going to remove the other one, and that'll help prevent the bracket from falling out.

Yeah. One bracket bolt. Let's see if this one's ready to come out by hand. Feels like a no. I'm going to hold the bracket so it can't fall down and hurt me. Safety first. Bolt number two, same as bolt number one. We don't have to worry about mixing those up. Caliper bracket is nice and stuck on that rotor, due to those pads being frozen in there.

Here's our bracket. So let's go ahead and get these pads out of here. I'm just going to use a hammer, and I'm going to try to bonk them out. Okay? Bonk, bonk. That's my thing. Here we are. It's the inner pad. This one. I'm hitting on the metal side of it, not on the meat side of it, obviously, I don't want to damage that, and there we are. Those are out. All right, so it's time to get this rotor off of here. Looks like somebody already broke one of the bolts there, so I'm just going to take an extra precaution and put and a little bit of penetrant spray here.

There's this one right here, it's just a Phillips head. What you're going to want to do, is you're going to want to make sure you're wearing safety glasses, hand protection, you're going to need a hammer, and you're going to need something like this, which is basically just a Phillips head, and it's a bit driver, so I'm going to turn it all the way to the left. I'm a righty, so I'm going to have to come over here. I'm going to hold it, twist it to the left, then I'm going to bonk this with my hammer. What it should do is it should turn that screw to break it free. So here we go, oh, huh! You would normally have to bonk this to break it free. That's something. I was kind of expecting it to come off a little harder, where that one was already broken. Figure maybe somebody had a hard time with it at some point.

So that's what it looks like, I guess I could have done it with a regular screwdriver, anyway. Now we want to get the rotor off of here. I'm just going to wobble it around, see if I can break it free. If I can't, I'm not saving the rotors, so I can hit pretty much anywhere, I just want to be careful not to hit any of these studs.

Feels like it's starting to come loose here. E-brake shoes are holding it up. All right. So, I'm trying to spin it. Doesn't really want to spin very easy. That means that the E-brake shoes are adjusted out, and they're hitting up against the inside of this drum area of our rotor. So we're just going to spin this, and we're going to look inside, and we're going to see where our adjuster is. So I'm just turning the rotor, looking inside to see if I can find the adjuster.

So inside this rotor, there's a drum area, and there's E-brake shoes that ride inside there, okay? The E-brake shoes are adjusted by this little thing right here, which is located right in the bottom. Okay? Has a little star on it, what you would want to do, is you'd want to take your screwdriver, go through this hole, okay? And then get so you're on one of these teeth, and then pry it, and you want to twist it, and that's going to make it so this part unscrews from here, or vice versa, this unscrews from there, whatever. And it'll spin and it should bring it in. Once it brings it in, it should release the E-brake shoes from the rotor or drum inside there, okay? If it's like this one inside there, odds are that's never going to come free. You can spray it, you can heat it, you can, I mean, it's going to be pretty much impossible to try to get it in there, right?

So, we'll give it a little try, just to say we did it, okay? And then we'll go ahead and do something different if it doesn't work. So let's give it a little college try. I'm going to spray, I'm just going to spray. I'm replacing all these shoes and everything in here. So I don't have to worry about getting any of this penetrant on my shoes. Let it sit there, do its job.

I'm going to take a peak in there, I can see my star. You pretty much want to have the hole pretty close to straight up and down. Oh, it's too far. Pretty close, it's right about there, so yeah, it's pretty close to straight up and down. So I'm just going to try to get my screwdriver in here, of course this one's a little bit too big. I want to try to use the biggest one I can. So I'll grab my next one down. It's not going to be big enough, I'm sure, to get enough leverage, but I'll give it a try.

So what we're going to do, we're going to take our screwdriver or pry bar, whatever you happen to have, stick it through the hole, put it right up against the star wheel in there, you're going to try to pry, using the rotor as a leverage point or pivot point. Fulcrum point, whatever you want to call it. And just try to turn that star. Doesn't turn that way, odds are it's probably not going to turn this way either. Nope. All right. You can try to spray it down with some more penetrant if you want, you can try to maybe see if you can heat in there somehow to free it up. My best guess on this is it's not ever going to happen, judging by the look of the other side there, that I showed you already. I don't think that it's probably going to come off of there, so I'm just going to go with the old brute force.

I'm going to try to shake this rotor off of here, and hopefully I can get the rotor off the shoes without pulling the shoes and the pins through from the backing plate. We're going to use our big, fabulous hammer, safety glasses, hand protection. I'm going to try to bonk on this rotor, see if I can get it out, hopefully we can get it shifting off the shoes enough to get it off, okay? I'm going to be replacing the E-brake shoes inside here as well, and the hardware. So I'm not terribly worried about breaking the E-brake hardware or the shoes. I just want to be careful not to damage the actual backing plate.

Looks like it's starting to move a little bit over here. I'll work my way over here. Get my caliper out of the way a little further. Give myself some bonking room. Go. Just keep switching from side to side.

Okay, let's take a look at what we're dealing with. Okay, so the shoes are lodged inside the back of the rotor/drum area. All I'm going to do is put a little bit of pressure here, just like that. Now I'm going to try to take my pry bar, longer pry bar, just see if I can get this to break free. What I'm going to do first, get one of my lug nuts on here, just in case this rotor does decide to let go. And I'm prying, doesn't come flying off and hurt me. Safety first, right? So let's see. Try to pry.

Okay. So here we have, this is our adjuster right here, you can see the star wheel. I'm just going to go ahead and heat this up, give it a little bit of heat down in there. I'm going to be careful to not try to heat up the bearing too much. Obviously, I don't ruin my bearing. I'm just going to use my nap gas, butane. Whatever I've got. Try to weasel it in here. Whoo-eee! Yeah. Flame on!

I'm going to hit it with my penetrant. Don't want to breathe in any of this smoke, okay? We'll let that sit, let the smoke dissipate for a second. I'm going to try to take the biggest screwdriver I've got, I'm just going to try to get this to spin. Okay? It's not going to happen. So, let's give this a try. I've got my safety glasses on. I'm going to go a little bit of torch heat here. Obviously, you want to make sure you don't have a fuel leak under here.

I'm just going to try to heat up that adjuster again, with a little bit stronger heat. That little torch is nice and everything. Once again, you don't want to breathe in that smoke, okay? Who knows. You might not even really need to do this on yours. All you want to do really is just de-adjust it. Hopefully for your sake, you don't have to do this. Just trying to get it nice and hot. Don't want to mess around.

I'd say it's pretty hot, shooting flames out. Switch to my other safety glasses. Always, always, always want to wear safety glasses. Super important. See if I can grab onto this thing. Feels like a no. Something's happening.

It's trying.

Problem is, is a couple of the ears are gone at this point, so to find something to grab onto is not happening. From the side, no. Still a no. Okay. All right. So as you can see, most of the ears are gone on this adjuster right here, that's making it very difficult for me to do my job. Now what I'm going to do, is I'm just going to grab those torches, I'm going to switch out the head, I'm going to do some cutting. So heating it up didn't really work out so well, I mean we're trying every effort here, we're giving it our best shot. We're coming down to our last case scenario here. I'm just going to use the torch and I'm going to cut this shoe. It's thinner than the metal itself for the adjuster, so I'm hoping if I can just blast this shoe away, it should be fairly quick.

And then I can get the adjuster out of here, and the shoes will just flop around, and I'll be able to get this rotor off. Here we go. Safety glasses, let's get this torch tuned up, some oxygen on here.

I'm going to be working in a confined area here, so we want to be careful for sparks flying back at our face. Just want to get this cherry red, once I see it starts us ... start to melt, just going to blast it with my oxygen. Let's see if that got it off of there. Oh, yeah. Oh, yeah.

Hot stuff. Got it in my little dipping booth over here. Let's see if this rotor's ready to play nice now. It might still be hot. I mean, look at it. Right? I'm going to get it back down to a working level, and we'll move along. All right, so here we go. Let's get our lug nut off of here. Going to grab the rotor, just got some rags rolled up here. We go around, there we are. There's our mess, here's our E-brake shoes. Cool. Let's keep on rolling. We've got our new stuff, we've got our new E-brake shoe. You just want to kind of hold it up, try to get it kind of near where the other one is. See if it looks like it's about the same size, because sometimes these brakes come in different sizes, so maybe you got a shoe that's just the wrong size. Now would be the time to know, right?

We get it apart, we can see it. Let's match it up, it looks good. We got all brand-new parts, new springs, new adjusters, which is great because you know, I just use the torches and cut the other stuff out because it was garbage. So, yeah. We got everything brand new, so let's start tearing this stuff out of here, and we'll check the E-brake pivot right there, make sure that pivots nice and free. If it doesn't, I'll show you how to get that going and we'll move along. It's always a great idea to try to take a mental note of where everything's situated, right? So we've got a spring that goes across right here, from here to here, this shoe.

We got a smaller spring, or a skinnier spring goes across the bottom. So up top, it'll be a little bit of a thicker spring, down bottom, a thinner spring. And of course the bottom also had the adjuster, which I cut out, because that's how I roll. Now I'm going to take my cutters, I'm going to cut this spring, because I don't need it anymore. I have brand new ones. If you don't, well, you want to try to take it off there, right?

I'm just going to cut it, the old shoe off of there. Grab our other shoe, feels like that. There it is. Right here is your E-brake pivot. When you pull up on your E-brake, it pulls this cable, in which turn is supposed to pull this and separate it, which will separate your E-brake shoes and push them up against the inside of your rotor/drum of the car, okay? If this doesn't move freely, like this one does not, then what we're going to have to do is free it up. I'll show you how to do that in a minute.

So here we have our original E-brake shoe, we have our brand new shoe. All I want to do, line them up and make sure that they match up completely. I know we did it while it was still in the car, that's important to do. But it's also important to do when it's out, because now you can get a real grasp of what's going on. This looks like it'll work fine. I'd say we're clear to move along. So right here, there's a little clip that holds your E-brake cable into this bracket. I'm going to go ahead and remove this clip. You can use something like a screwdriver or pliers, or whatever you want. I might resort to the screwdriver here in a second. I'm just going to try the pliers.

There's what it looks like when I took it out. It's got the little hooky-do facing to the rear of the vehicle. I'm going to grab my cable. Try to give it a little tug. This piece right here, the bracket, just has like a little U. So I'm going to pull the cable outward and then upward. Just like that. Now, I need to get the cable off of the back side of my adjuster. So I'll just wiggle it. It should come free fairly easily.

Here we are. Check our cable. Moves nice and free. I'm not worried about that. It's always good habit to check those though. Okay. Now it's time to get our E-brake pivot out of here. I'm just going to take it, try to stick it in one of these holes, and see if I can work it. The boot, there's a little boot that comes through, that might stick to this arm. We're just going to take our pocket screwdriver, we'll just try to get it off of that metal. Okay? Just work it. We don't want to rip the boot, try to keep the moisture out of here as much as we can. I mean, it's not airtight or anything. So if you, you know, drive into a lake or something like that, it's not going to keep the water out, but theoretically it'll help keep the puddle moisture out and the debris.

Okay. So we're just going to keep doing this until we finally get it out. My main concern at this particular moment was just to try not to rip my boot. I really like that boot, I want to keep it, it's sentimental or something. Okay. Here we go. Sometimes getting these out can be a little bit of a pain, especially when they're frozen. If they're not frozen, this things can flop around, and generally speaking, you won't have as much of an issue. But since it is frozen, it's just giving me a little bit of an issue. So here we are, frozen, right here's the fulcrum point. Look at that. Looks like it's all one piece, doesn't even look like it should move there. What I'm going to do now, I'm going to go over to my vice. I'm going to heat this up. I'm going to hit it with some penetrant spray, let it sit for a little while, and then I'll show you what to do from there.

So here we go, we're at our vice, just checking one more time, this is frozen. It's not turning at all at this fulcrum point, pivot point. So now I'm going to go ahead and free it up, just like I said, I'm going to apply some heat, I'm going to spray it with some penetrant, I'll show you what to do next. Then once it's done, I'll show you the difference in what it should look like. So I'm just going to get this in the vice, apply some heat, like I said, wearing my safety glasses and hand protection.

As always, you don't want to breathe in any smoke. All right, see if it's hot, just kidding. I'm just going to go ahead and spray it. Just doing nice and slow here. I mean, it is burning off as I go. But some of it is doing what it's supposed to be doing, I'm sure of it. This penetrant knows its job and it does it well. That's why it gets paid the big bucks. All on there. Cool. Let's let that sit. We'll come back to it. Okay, we've had this soaking for a little while know, just going to take my big, fabulous hammer, I'm just going to give this a little love tap. Just trying to get the rust to break free right here.

There we are. That's looking pretty good. Okay. Now I'm going to take it to the wire wheel, where you can use a grinder or some sand paper, whatever you need to do. Clean this up the best you can, get as much of this rust out of here as possible, and then we'll use some never seize. And we should be good to go. So here we go, this is the one from the other side. Pretty frozen, that's exactly the way this one looked originally. Here's this one, nice and loose, cleaned up pretty good. Not bad. I'm just going to take a little bit of Never-Seize, see if I can get it in between here, where the two pieces ride, kind of where you can see them wiggle. Try to get it in there, hopefully when moisture tries to work its way in there again, it will lose that battle.

Let's get it working good. Here we go. Perfect. So now it's time to clean up this backing plate area, right? We got lots of rust and chunks of stuff. We want to make sure we get the majority of this stuff off of here. Wear your safety glasses, wear your hand protection. Just try to get the majority of all this crud off of here. Last thing you want is noises coming from here after you've put it all together, because maybe we didn't do such a great job cleaning this off and a big flake fell in, got caught in between the backing plate and the rotor, or whatever the case may be. As you can tell right along here, there's like shiny metal. Looks as though the rotor had been hitting there.

So we might get a little bit of a rotor noise when we put on the new ones. This backing plate might be bent in a little bit. We can try to take care of that now, be like a little preemptive on it, just give it a little bonk. There we go. Well, if it was hitting, it's not going to hit now.

We'll get off the big flakes. Once we get all that off, we can go ahead and use our brush. These are available at 1AAuto.com. They're great for stuff like this, and also cleaning up your hub, which we're going to do in a minute. Obviously, if you can avoid breathing in all this dust, that would be optimal for your lungs. Pretty much anything aside from air, you want to keep out of your lungs, right? So now, let's go ahead and clean up the hub area. We need to use our 1A Auto tool here. We want to get off any big chunks we can find. Looks pretty good, could try using something like a sanding disk, or some sand paper if you need to, or even a small scraper if you feel some small bumps. Right along here, I can kind of feel a little bit lifting up, so I'm going to make sure I get all that off. Because if I don't, when I go to put my rotor on, it's going to be a little off-kilter. When I put my wheel on on top of my rotor, it's going to be even more off-kilter. So it's super important you get this cleaned up, okay?

Seems crazy to do this, makes all the difference in the long run. We're already in here, why go back in again? If you find that a lot of it doesn't want to come off, you're having a hard time, you don't want to just sit there, you can also get this tool right here, it's a performance tool, it's available from 1A Auto. To use it, skim right along your hub, okay? You don't need to grind into it, we don't want to dig it away, we just want to try to get off some of this surface area, where there's little bumps coming.

See the different between where I hit, where I haven't hit. Wearing our safety glasses, hand protection, let's give it a little blast with some parts cleaner. Just going to get off any debris that we might have sitting on there still. Grab a rag, finish it off. This looks really good. We'll let this dry up a little bit, shouldn't take very long at all. We'll start setting in some E-brake shoes.

All right, so I've got a little bit of brake grease here, it's just the color of it. It's not dirty, just so you know. Let me go ahead in here. These are the points where the shoe's going to be riding on the backing plate. I like to keep them lubricated, because the shoes are supposed to move around a little bit. This will also help keep it from rusting, and if they're you know, rusted, they've just got big flakes on them, just try to clean them off first, okay? I like to put a little bit in between here. It's also where your shoe's going to be resting. That's going to keep them from sticking in there and a little bit right here.

A little bit right there. Okay? So I would say that our backing plate's prepared at this point, cleaned up our wheel bearing, got our backing plate nice and chiseled away, there won't be any big flakes falling down. So now, what we can do, we'll grab our adjusters, I'll show you how to lube those up. So we've got three parts to our adjuster. We've got the short end, the threaded end, and then the adjuster with the star which is also threaded. You always want to make sure you put a little bit of grease in here, it's going to help keep moisture from getting in there, and well, causing the same issue that we're dealing with now.

Probably just didn't have it in there in the first place, or maybe it did back in 2007, and well, it's been a little while. I'm just going to get it started, work it in there. The reason for the grease is to help keep moisture from in between the threads, help prevent this from seizing up on us and giving us the same issue of what we had when we took it all apart in the first place. This just presses into the other side, just like that, all right? I'll grab one of the old ones and I'll show you, as you could see, it's the exact same, well, let's not go with that one. As you could see, we have the same situation here, we've got the threaded end, not that you can tell it's threaded, but it is sticking out a little bit.

And the short side, and then the other side, is right in the longer side. Okay? Okay, so we've got a little E-brake pivot here, we did a great job cleaning it up, lubing it, I'm just going to put a little bit more brake lube on it. Right along here, and I'll show you why I'm doing this, mainly because a little lube goes a long way. Just like that, okay? Right inside there, coming through the back side, there's a rubber boot, and that's supposed to help keep the moisture out, right? We remember that from when we were removing this. So now, when I'm putting this back in, I want to make sure I have a little bit of lubricant there. Why not? Right?

So now, I'm just going to see if I can get this lined up in here, lined up with one of these holes. I'm going to try to work that into its slot, just like that. Should be pressing through, there it is. Okay. It is through. So we got our hook right back here, just going to get our cable hooked back onto it. Just like that. And pull this through, bring it in.

Put that on there. This moves nice, still happy, happier than it's probably been in a long, long time. Perfect. Let's grab our shoes, we'll grab our upper spring, which is the thicker of the two springs that we're going to have. We'll get those in there, and then we're going to do our little pins here, our adjuster, and our other spring. So you'll notice on your E-brake shoes, there's an up and a down, okay? The top side has all these little squigglies, and the bottom side just has one notch. The top side has all these squigglies, because one has to go over this part, and then the next part, the little groove, is where your pivot sits in. Okay? Down here, this is where your adjuster's going to sit. It's a nice, wide open hole just waiting. Okay?

So you're going to grab two of them, you're not going to have one like this and one like that, both of them just like this. You're going to grab your thick spring, it looks much different from your other spring. Okay? This one's skinny, this one's thick. Start it on one shoe, slide it right along the top of your wheel bearing, underneath your E-brake pivot, until it comes out the other side. Okay? Can see it up here now. I'm just going to grab a pair of my cutters, and I'm not going to cut it, but that's how I like to hold onto things, because they seem like they grip on a lot better than pliers in most instances.

Now, I'm going to take my other shoe, I'm just going to try to weasel it in here like this. I'm going to get the spring right into its hole where it belongs. Make sure it's all the way in, it can't be like that. It's got to be all the way in. Let's see if I can get it. Nothing's ever easy on camera. I welcome the challenge. Here we are, perfect. So those are ready to go. Love it. Right back here, there's a hole in the backing plate, and on the other side, pretty much three or sorry, yeah. Three and nine o'clock, there's going to be holes, okay? That's where your two pins are going to come through, and they're going to go inside the holes in your shoe. So I've got one pin, just going to go through my hole. I'm going to try to get my shoe over it, just like that. Okay.

I like to have these so the blade of it is sitting up and down like this. I'll show you the reason for that. Next, you've got this spring. By having the blade up and down, it sits on the lip on the pin. So now, you can reach over and you can grab the rest of your stuff, which would be one of these. As you can tell, it's slotted as well. And you can use something like needle nose, or a tool like this one to do the next step. The next step would be to take your tool, whatever you're using, and you're going to condense that spring, and push this on essentially. See if I can get it. Of course not.

My finger out of there. Okay. Now, I'm just going to try to line up the slot on my piece with my pin. Once I do that, I'm going to push it in, try to give it a little twist. Perfect. If you take a peek right in there, you'll be able to see exactly what happened. And I can show you on this. So we've got our pin, I've got it up and down. I push this in, and then I twisted it, and then I released it, and it's sitting in those little grooves now, so now it won't be able to come out. Basically, there's grooves that, if this is up and down, there's grooves that go this way, they're kind of sunken, so when you go in, it goes like this, this can't spin. Okay? It won't come free. Now my spring's nice and compressed, it's holding my shoe to the backing plate, and I'm clear to move along. So I've got my lower spring, which is the skinnier of the two. I've got my adjuster, I've got my thread facing towards the front of the vehicle.

I'm going to take my spring, grab this shoe, a little way a little bit. I'm going to put it in the little triangular hole in the bottom of the shoe, I'm going to do the same thing for the other one. Once I get it in, I should be able to show you. There we are. See the triangle right here? It's the same on that shoe. Okay? I'm going to take my adjuster, I'm going to put it in on the anchored side, and then I'm going to grab my shoe, I'm going to separate it, get that in there, there we are. Now I'm going to take my pin, I'm going to grab my spring and my little anchor point there. I'm going to put this all together, just like I did the other side. I've got these anchored in, right? I've got my adjuster down here, it's moving nice and free, it loves it there. All I'm going to do, is I'm going to take my hands, I'm going to bonk these shoes a little bit, just going to move them around, shift them, get everything nice and situated. Bonk, bonk, bonk. Just like that.

There we are. I know everything's sitting in there nice. I've got my adjuster down there. I know it's sitting inside its grooves, where it wants to be. It's happy there, it's home. I've got the pivot up here, that's sitting in its grooves, it's happy there. Everybody's home where they belong, so we're going to take a little bit of Never-Seize. We're going to go on the hub, try to get everywhere where the rotor's going to be hitting. I mean, do you have to spray the whole thing and make sure you get it? Not so much, right? But you do want to make sure that you get as little as possible on your friction material, which would be the E-brake shoes themselves.

That looks pretty decent. Could I have gotten a little bit more? Sure. There you go. Anyway, let's move along. We've got the holes inside of our hub, right? This is where we took the screws out, or the screw, somebody else had broken one there. So all I'm going to do now is I'm going to line up the screw hole on the rotor. Get that in there. That feels pretty great. We've got our screw. Phillips, should have my tool out here still somewhere. Get it in there, if you want to put a little extra Never-Seize on that screw, that's completely up to you, that's your prerogative. Might even be a great idea.

Perfect. This screw right here really doesn't do too much, in exception of just hold the rotor on when the caliper and the wheel's off, right? So this rotor can't wobble around on the hub, rust can't fall in between the hub and the rotor, and cause a brake pulsation down the road. There we go. All right. So now, we want to turn the rotor a little bit. As you can tell, this is a little stiff. Okay. It's quite possible, just come back here, I'm just going to grab on the E-brake pivot, and I move it around. This would be kind of me imitating me up inside the car, pulling up and down on the E-brake. Just go like this a little bit, okay?

I'm going to grab it again, seems a little bit more free, but what I want to make sure is there there is hardly any drag. Like, I don't want any drag. I want to just barely hear this thing just barely touching. Because you know what happens, right? When you get drag, that's creating friction, that means that everything's going to get hot, right? Once those E-brake shoes, and all your springs and everything that you just did a great job of putting in there heat up, everything's going to expand, and they might turn to garbage quicker than you hope. So I'm going to de-adjust this a little bit, pretty much in the 6:00 position, right? We've got our upper stud, and then the hole, straight up and down, as close as possible.

That should be where our adjuster screw is. Take your small screwdriver, your pry bar, whatever you're using. Try to get in there, just give that screw a little turn. Turn it one way a couple little turns, try to move it, if it feels like it's getting easier, going the right way. Feels like it's getting harder? Well, try going the other way, right? So that felt like it was getting a little harder. I'm just going to find that adjuster screw again. There we go. Okay, we're getting close to where we want to be now. We don't want to go too, too loose, as you can tell, see if you can hear it. We have a teeny bit of drag, I might give it one more little click after that, the thing about going too loose is that when you go to pull up on your E-brake, you want it to work.

So, if you have it too loose, you pull up on your E-brake, it might not grip like you want it to. There we go, I like that. I like it a lot. Now, I'm going to grab my same screwdriver/pry bar if that's what you're using. I'm just going to try pulling on that pivot again. I want to kind of imitate I'm using the E-brake up there. Yeah. So if I pull on the E-brake, it does that. I'm going to grab this, try to turn it. Nothing. Release it, spins, everybody's happy. Perfect. E-brakes are done. We're going to get a little boot, we're going to put it in here, if we can't find a boot, you can use something like RTV. You know? Use it, whatever you want, essentially. You just need to make sure this is plugged up. We want to try to keep as much dirt, debris, moisture, whatever out of there, okay? I'll show you what it looks like with some RTV on there and we'll move along.

So I'm going to use a little bit of RTV. I don't necessarily need to get in the hole so much as just kind of plug the hole. That looks pretty great. We'll leave that there, and we'll continue on to putting on our caliper. So what I'm going to do, I'm going to take out the slider, take out the other slider, they're both the same. Sometimes you'll see them. They'll have a little rubber on there. These look the exact same. I like to just put a little extra lube, you know, sometimes in the assembly line, maybe the machine or person that was doing it, was having kind of a lazy day and they didn't put on as much as maybe I like to have in there. I like to make sure these puppies can move around for days, or months, or even years, right? Really. Preferably years. So, I just put on a little extra lube. Why not?

This is just caliper lube, you can use something like silicone paste if you wanted to, or whatever. This is what I have access to, so this is what I am using. And it is black, it's not just dirty. I don't know ... I just want to make sure that I mention that. I'm not using dirty grease. So, I wanted to make sure that the grease came up along this lip up here, so that way there, I can make sure that no water's going to make its way in between there. Right? Our calipers came with new tins, that's always a special treat, that means we don't have to try to reuse our old tins from our other brackets. Let me see if I can get them apart real quick here. That's what it looks like. Okay? All that's going to do is sit right on here. It's going to go like this, but before you put it on there, I want to show you that you're going to put a little bit more of that caliper grease right along here. The reason for that is so when you're driving in puddles or you know, anything really, moisture gets in there.

What does moisture do to metal? Makes it rust. Rust starts to flake and swell, and then of course, you're going to have your pads stuck in your brackets again. It's going to be a real issue, and I don't want to deal with that. So, I just put a little bit of caliper lube on there. Now I'm going to take my tin. Let me see if I can get it in here. Squeeze it, there's the little prongs right here, okay? What I'm going to do with those prongs, is I'm just trying to put them inside that slot right there. Prongs, slot, line it up and squeeze it in. There we are. It's important to note that you don't want to use any lube on the outside of these tins, where the pads are going to be riding. All that's going to happen at that point is you'll collect dust and debris and everything, in between there, and then you know, it's going to cause sticking and everything in the long run. So, you know, if you're putting on new pads, you definitely don't want to put any type of lubricant there.

Now we're going to move onto the muscle. I'm going to go right on this little fork-y end here. Right on the other end. And then I like to go right directly on the piston, right there. Some people will say, "Oh, you just lubed the whole back side of the pad. That doesn't make any sense. Why would you put it all over the whole back side of the pad, when this is the only part that actually touches, right? So all you're doing is wasting grease, and you're creating more of an area for your pad to collect, you know, debris and gunk and all that.

So we've got our brand new caliper bracket here, we're just going to install it on here. I've got my two caliper bolts, they're 14 millimeter heads. There's a torque specification for these, it's 43 foot pounds. So you can go ahead and bottom them out, and then torque them down to 43 foot pounds. If you wanted to use a little thread locker, that's up to you, it's your prerogative. You do you, boo boo. I've got my ratchet with my 14, I'm just going to bottom it out. Feels great. Put this one on here. Okay, let's torque them and go 43. Maybe.

There we are. If you go a little over, it's really not so bad as if you go a little under, right? So ... There we are. I'm just going to hit it one more time. Feels pretty great. Do this one, doesn't hurt anybody to do it twice, right? Now we're going to put on our brand new pads, and we're going to take our pads, we've got our little squealer, the level indicator. That goes on the inside pad, facing the bottom. And this one on the outside, this one has no wear indicator. Here we are. Take our caliper, it's lubricated, this is the muscle. Get it on here. We've got our new caliper bolts, throw on a little thread locker if you like. Or don't, if you don't. We're going to tighten these down, bottom them out, and we're going to torque them to 23 foot pounds. Got my pliers ready, sometimes these spin.

So, I'm just going to take it like this. Try to hold my slider from spinning. There we are. Try to get this on here. Mm-hmm. Yep. I love it. Here we go, let's hit it again. Grab this one. Perfect, time to get this bolt in here. Nice and long. We've got a 17 millimeter head nut, 17 millimeter head bolt. We're going to line this arm hole up with the knuckle arm hole. Peek.

Drive that right through. Take our nut, see if we can get it on here, see if I can start it on a little bit. Here we are. I'm going to hold this side with my wrench, hit this side with my air gun. You can use a ratchet. Do whatever you need to do. It's a 17 and a 17.

Nice, tight. Let's go ahead and bleed this out. All right, so now we're going to go ahead and go up there and depress the brake pedal several times, three to five times very slowly, you don't want to aerate the brake system. Just kind of step down. Let it up, down, let it up. Three to five times, okay? Once you do that, you can come on back down here, we're going to open up this bleeder screw right here, it's a 10 millimeter. All right, so we just pumped it up. I'm going to come back down here with my 10 millimeter and open this up. We're going to watch for fluid. We've got fluid coming out, some air bubbles. Can help it along a little bit, give this a little tug. Boop, boop, boop. Can see a whole bunch of little air bubbles coming up. Boop, boop, boop. Or if you could do it like this, bonk, bonk. Bonk, bonk, bonk. Helps move things along so it seems as though we're getting a steady trickle of fluid now. I'm not seeing any air bubbles. I'm wearing gloves, so I can do this, by the way. Don't do it with your bear hands.

DOT3 and DOT4 is hydro scopic. It absorbs moisture, so it'll dry your hands right out and of course your skin is an organ, and it'll absorb the brake fluid and it could cause you health issues. So, Dr. Len ... Oh, I got another little air bubble. Cool. All right. So that looks pretty good. I'm going to close it off. And now, like I said, you can go ahead and you can go on 1AAuto.com, purchase the self-bleed kit, or you can just have somebody go up in the vehicle and do a bleed with you. You can on the site, check out how to do it, it's easy peasy. All right. We've got this bled out, I'm going to blast it again with my parts cleaner. Very nice, it's all dripping down into my recycling receptacle down there. I've got my cover. You always want to make sure you replace these, put them on. This helps keep the water and debris from getting down in there and freezing up your bleeder screw. We'll just wait for this to dry off, we can get the wheel back on there, you'll be good for a road test. All right.

It's time to get the wheel up on here. We've got our lug nuts close, we've got our hub cap. I'm just going to take it, roll it up my leg here. Get it on there. Take my hub cap, we've got our little slot, right there, where our valve stem goes through. Get one lug nut on while I'm still holding it, make sure it's on there good. There we go, the wheel can't fall off, now I'm going to grab the others. 21 millimeter. I'm just going to bottom these out, you can use an air gun if you have access to it. I want to make sure we do this in the star pattern, so the wheel won't get kinked on like this, if I tighten this one up and then this one, the wheel might be sitting like this, and I might think I have these tightened down. And really they're not, right? I mean, pretty obvious. So, we'll get it close, we'll come down here, air gun would make short work of this.

All right, time to torque this down. 21 millimeter, star pattern. Going to go 80 foot pounds. Let's go ahead and go around in a circle here now.

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